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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-13-2009, 12:22 PM   #32446
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Originally Posted by timmay70 View Post
Dont mix traction compounds on the same rug and/or tires. It will make chemical soup, and will mess up traction. Paragon, when used exclusively and correctly will have traction for a full 8 minutes.

Jack on a track with good grip will last close to the full 8 minutes.

Different things will also affect grip; dirt, temperature, humidity, shadows and even air flow. The new Ozite rug has provisions to be sturdier to allow for rubber tires, however, the fibers are the same type, and the grip shouldn't change between the older type because of the enhancements to cope with rubber tires. We have the new stuff at our track, and on a good night, the grip comes right up, and sticks with us for a couple of days.
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Part time, a couple things to think about.

1. Mixed compounds. Unfortunately not much you can do here since I am talking about different compounds on the track. When everyone runs Paragon, the track is fine but if just ONE guy is using jack, the problem will surface.

2. Run the same compound tire front and rear. This way, the loss of traction is even so at least the balance stays fairly close as the total grip goes down. Magentas seem to be especially good in this sort of condition.

3. For me, moving weight forward seems to help a bit in these conditions. It seems to help the rears stay good a bit longer.
Thanks for the info but, we have guys using both compounds at my track. Its out of my hands. Any ideas?

I just redid my car and moved the electronics forward. No help. I was running dbl pink front/rear the last time I drove it and no luck there. I will be picking up a set of magenta's but think it will show the same thing. Almost thought about magenta on front and dbl pink rear but fear the handling will be too much for me to handle the first couple mins.

This problem seems to show itself more in stock than mod. I think the extra speed keeps the tires hotter longer.

Also this summer the only tire that would hold on was black front. Everything else falls off. Now even blacks are letting go. Its really starting to get to the point of I dont want to run it any more. I love 1/12th but if it wont run fairly consistant then whats the point?

Dont get me wrong. For the first couple mins I have enough traction to roll the car with short tires, low ride hight and glued side walls on purple fronts. The traction is there but the tires just wont hold on. Uggg.

Thanks
DK
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:42 PM   #32447
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Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
Thanks for the info but, we have guys using both compounds at my track. Its out of my hands. Any ideas?

I just redid my car and moved the electronics forward. No help. I was running dbl pink front/rear the last time I drove it and no luck there. I will be picking up a set of magenta's but think it will show the same thing. Almost thought about magenta on front and dbl pink rear but fear the handling will be too much for me to handle the first couple mins.

This problem seems to show itself more in stock than mod. I think the extra speed keeps the tires hotter longer.

Also this summer the only tire that would hold on was black front. Everything else falls off. Now even blacks are letting go. Its really starting to get to the point of I dont want to run it any more. I love 1/12th but if it wont run fairly consistant then whats the point?

Dont get me wrong. For the first couple mins I have enough traction to roll the car with short tires, low ride hight and glued side walls on purple fronts. The traction is there but the tires just wont hold on. Uggg.

Thanks
DK
PartTime,
Does the car have a "push" characteristic most of the time? Especially on corner exit? When I had a car with an on-power push like this, I would always overheat the front tires because they would constantly scrub on corner exit. Then at about 5-6 minutes, because the fronts overheated, the back end would be way too loose. Once I tuned out the "push" in the car, the problem went away.
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Old 10-13-2009, 01:07 PM   #32448
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PartTime,
Does the car have a "push" characteristic most of the time? Especially on corner exit? When I had a car with an on-power push like this, I would always overheat the front tires because they would constantly scrub on corner exit. Then at about 5-6 minutes, because the fronts overheated, the back end would be way too loose. Once I tuned out the "push" in the car, the problem went away.
No, the car works perfectly for most of the race. Then the tires go off and I have no steering. maybe I need to dial in some push so the rear free's up at the end?

DK
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Old 10-13-2009, 05:05 PM   #32449
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No, the car works perfectly for most of the race. Then the tires go off and I have no steering. maybe I need to dial in some push so the rear free's up at the end?

DK
Softer front spring?
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Old 10-13-2009, 05:54 PM   #32450
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Originally Posted by Chemical X View Post
PartTime,
Does the car have a "push" characteristic most of the time? Especially on corner exit? When I had a car with an on-power push like this, I would always overheat the front tires because they would constantly scrub on corner exit. Then at about 5-6 minutes, because the fronts overheated, the back end would be way too loose. Once I tuned out the "push" in the car, the problem went away.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
No, the car works perfectly for most of the race. Then the tires go off and I have no steering. maybe I need to dial in some push so the rear free's up at the end?

DK
I think what Tom was saying is that sometimes it may SEEM like it's working "perfectly" when, in fact, it isn't. Maybe start looking into some setup options that don't work the front tires quite so hard, then use less steering. It sounds like what may be happening is that your rear is too locked down so the front tires are having to work too hard to keep up.

We don't run "single compound" here, just nothing wintergreen. I'd guess 3/4 of us run Niftech and the rest run Jack, I don't have any problem at all with traction to the end of a heat or race and the guy who usually beats me runs Jack and his traction seems just fine too. Our carpet is rolled out for every race and is considered low grip, at best it climbs to medium.

Something I noticed the last couple years with the "hot shoes" that come to our big race in the spring is that they all start running into traction problems. The key, to my mind, is that they're setting the car SO "on edge" / at the limit / whatever to get the absolute minimum lap time that they're running the tires off 6 minutes in. Then instead of compromising on their setup they moan and groan about the track. The key is, in "real" racing that ain't how it's done but in "toy car" racing we think it is. "Real" cars can (and do) set the car on edge for the fast qualifying laps, or whatever, but to go full race distance they throw a completely different setup on the car so that it can make the tires work for longer distance. Since our "qualifying laps" are, basically, race distance we need to work on a setup that maybe doesn't maximize lap speed but insures that the tires will last the full 8 minutes. Something that doesn't get much sympathy is if, say, Jimmie Johnson shows up at Daytona and starts moaning that he can't run his qualifying setup the full race distance. Could something like this be happening to you?
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Old 10-13-2009, 06:07 PM   #32451
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I am going to switch from NimH to 1s lipo for this winter. Just curious who makes the best 1s lipo? Are deans better to use then banana clips. Does anyone make one you can direct solder? Thanks.
"The best" is going to be, at best, a subjective assessment.

I've not seen any LiPos that can be direct soldered. I had thought there was a specific ROAR rule prohibiting this but a quick perusal of the 2009 rule book didn't reveal any such specific ban (though I may have missed it). Suffice to say that this just isn't done with LiPo batteries. The key to plugs is that IF something goes wrong with a battery (starts swelling, etc) you want to be able to get it disconnected and removed RIGHT NOW and into the sand bucket. Getting your hands in there with a soldering iron ain't part of "RIGHT NOW".
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Old 10-13-2009, 06:11 PM   #32452
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"The best" is going to be, at best, a subjective assessment.

I've not seen any LiPos that can be direct soldered. I had thought there was a specific ROAR rule prohibiting this but a quick perusal of the 2009 rule book didn't reveal any such specific ban (though I may have missed it). Suffice to say that this just isn't done with LiPo batteries. The key to plugs is that IF something goes wrong with a battery (starts swelling, etc) you want to be able to get it disconnected and removed RIGHT NOW and into the sand bucket. Getting your hands in there with a soldering iron ain't part of "RIGHT NOW".
I believe you can as long as you dont alter the pack in any kind of way.
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:17 PM   #32453
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Hi guys, has anyone seen this new chassis from Corally?









I thought they may of gone down this route with a LiPo specific chassis:



A throwback to the SP12V from a few years ago, what do you think?
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:42 PM   #32454
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I like it
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Old 10-13-2009, 08:01 PM   #32455
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Since were talking about tires.

I have a problem I havnt been able to figure out. No matter what tires I use (black to magenta, jaco and crc) they go off so badly after 6 min'ish that I lose about 3/4 sec per lap. Mostly the front. This summer when it was warm I could get the car to hold on for the whole 8 mins. Now its cooling off they just wont hold n its just gonna get worse. I have gone from stiff to soft on suspention also. Makes no differences. Im running the protoform speed 12 and have the new AMR body in route but hear it only has a little more down force.

I have used paragon and jack with the same results. New lay out or old, doesnt seem to matter. The only thing I can think of is this is the new crc carpet that I was told was made for rubber?

Any help or ideas would be awsome.
Thanks
DK
i have the same situation(relatively new carpet) if i don't sauce early enough. 10minutes with JTG is not enough time. how long do let it soak for?
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Old 10-13-2009, 09:33 PM   #32456
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i have the same situation(relatively new carpet) if i don't sauce early enough. 10minutes with JTG is not enough time. how long do let it soak for?
We're running on brand new ozite, and I usually let mine soak for about twenty minutes.
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Old 10-13-2009, 11:17 PM   #32457
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...so I was doing a little 1/12 durability testing the other day...





I got a neat piece of pvc from the barrier side that could be used as a template for Parma Speed-12 HD bodies. It busted out as neat as could be.

I carromed off the springy barrier at the apex of the preceding corner and was thrown instantly into the outside barrier at full-chat. BANG-CRUNCH!! OH SH*T!!" Got lucky...didn't even disturb the alignment of the car (CRC 3.2R / 1s LiPo / 13.5 motor).
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Old 10-14-2009, 12:17 AM   #32458
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We're running on brand new ozite, and I usually let mine soak for about twenty minutes.
agreed, 20minutes or even a little more helps make time. also i was wiping them dry before putting it down on the track, but lately i have just plopped it down and donated a little sauce to the carpet to help build the groove.
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Old 10-14-2009, 12:30 AM   #32459
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...so I was doing a little 1/12 durability testing the other day...

I got a neat piece of pvc from the barrier side that could be used as a template for Parma Speed-12 HD bodies. It busted out as neat as could be.

I carromed off the springy barrier at the apex of the preceding corner and was thrown instantly into the outside barrier at full-chat. BANG-CRUNCH!! OH SH*T!!" Got lucky...didn't even disturb the alignment of the car (CRC 3.2R / 1s LiPo / 13.5 motor).
That's cool! They should let you cut that section out and hang it on the wall in your workshop or something like that
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Old 10-14-2009, 04:29 AM   #32460
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How big are your tyres? It could be that if your tyres are worn down, they take less additive, plus they rotate more times, wearing the additive out quicker too. Have you tried bigger tyres against smaller tyres to see if that is the case? I tried Paragon FX and found that the rears went off around the 6 minute mark, Paragon Ground Effects keeps the rears hooked up for the complete 8 minutes (and more!).
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