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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-13-2009, 12:13 AM   #32431
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Every time one of my front wheels meets the boards they tend to adjust themselves by apprx. that amount...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
1) 1/5 is not an increment of 1/4.

2) The CLOSEST I've seen to that level of accuracy would be the Unity station with the protractors, and even then it's not going to be totally accurate to fractions of a degree.

Are you programming moon shots for NASA or racing 1/12? I'm all for getting my car set up as accurately as I can, but a quarter degree "accuracy" is probably not a realistic expectation.
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Old 10-13-2009, 01:21 AM   #32432
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Are certain 1/12 bodies more popular among racers? And why?

I'm running a low-grip indoor carpet facility, and this is my first time on the rug.
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Last edited by StickyFingaz; 10-13-2009 at 01:58 AM.
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Old 10-13-2009, 01:31 AM   #32433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex C View Post

Any information on how to eliminate any of the wheel slop in front would be much appreciated…………………..Thank You in Advance for all your helpful suggestions.

Best Regards!!!!

Alex
[/FONT][/COLOR]
Alex, why do you want to get rid of this slop? We tested the difference between slop and no slop, the outcome was not so bad. If you have some slop the radial play on you front rims will be a bit bigger. Due to this play you will have better roll and grip in fast sweepers.
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Old 10-13-2009, 01:35 AM   #32434
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I've noticed that different brands of tires use the same "name" (shore), but are not the same. For Example: Parma Gray seems to be softer then Jaco Grey, and Parma Grey looks more to Jaco Yellow.

Is there any scale or calculation sheet for the different brands of tires, and in which you can compare to the others.

Best Regards

Robert Krens
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Old 10-13-2009, 04:09 AM   #32435
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Default tyres for 2010 snowbirds

Plan to race in the 2010 snowbirds 1/12th 10.5 and 17.5 Any advice on tyre grades for the Snowbird rug.

Currently have

fronts Jaco d/pink---purple---magenta---lilac.

rear Jaco yellow---pink---grey---orange.
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Old 10-13-2009, 06:29 AM   #32436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF View Post
AHA, ha, aha... Scottrik your posts are funny I don't care who you are, that reply is funny (or at least it was to me)!
E
Just another day of "Let's spot the math teacher".

Alternative solutions to the problems expressed:

1) Perhaps 1/5 of 1/4 which would be 1/20. See discussion below.

2) The biggest challenge getting measurements down that low is the size of our alignment tools and the size of markings. The tools have to be scaled, more or less, to the cars we are using them on. If you picture a Hudy alignment fixture a couple feet tall you could probably get 1/4 degree marks in there and have them mean something. Doesn't mean the car will hold that (I'm guessing we have at least that much play in the bearings to say nothing of other sources of give). There are a couple problems with fixtures that size though. Firstly, they're kinda cumbersome (look how big boxes are for 3-4" fixtures) and secondly they'd be a good deal heavier. I'd also argue using "levers" that big could easily damage a car should it be bumped or inadvertantly flexed on.

I SUPPOSE you could get 1/4 degree accuracy with nothing more than a caliper and a machinist's square. Get the wheels set perfectly vertical (zero camber) with the machinist's square and make darn sure you move both wheels exactly the same amount. Measuring the distance between the inboard edge of the tire at the top and a little trigonometry ought to get you pretty close, but if your tires aren't exactly the same diameter, you don't measure at exactly the same point, etc and you'll be off by more than his 1/4 degree because with the arc in that small of a radius (expressed by a 1/12 front tire, say either side of 21mm) any variance of arc length becomes a significant number of degrees. This becomes less of a concern the larger the radius, hence the tall fixtures expressed above.
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Old 10-13-2009, 06:50 AM   #32437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickyFingaz View Post
Are certain 1/12 bodies more popular among racers? And why?

I'm running a low-grip indoor carpet facility, and this is my first time on the rug.
At your track I would run a Parma Speed 8 HD. Seems to be the most stable and locks the car down,
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:02 AM   #32438
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Originally Posted by Scottmisfits View Post
I sure it's been asked before but what's the difference in the Jaco Yellow and Pink rears? They both have a 30 rating on them. Is it the rubber compound? How do they differ on the track?
http://bmiracing.com/bmiv4/index.php...d=15&Itemid=30
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:04 AM   #32439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
I've noticed that different brands of tires use the same "name" (shore), but are not the same. For Example: Parma Gray seems to be softer then Jaco Grey, and Parma Grey looks more to Jaco Yellow.

Is there any scale or calculation sheet for the different brands of tires, and in which you can compare to the others.

Best Regards

Robert Krens
i think that is true of the old parma tires. but now with the blackhawks, they are exactly the same as the jaco
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Old 10-13-2009, 08:22 AM   #32440
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Since were talking about tires.

I have a problem I havnt been able to figure out. No matter what tires I use (black to magenta, jaco and crc) they go off so badly after 6 min'ish that I lose about 3/4 sec per lap. Mostly the front. This summer when it was warm I could get the car to hold on for the whole 8 mins. Now its cooling off they just wont hold n its just gonna get worse. I have gone from stiff to soft on suspention also. Makes no differences. Im running the protoform speed 12 and have the new AMR body in route but hear it only has a little more down force.

I have used paragon and jack with the same results. New lay out or old, doesnt seem to matter. The only thing I can think of is this is the new crc carpet that I was told was made for rubber?

Any help or ideas would be awsome.
Thanks
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Old 10-13-2009, 09:25 AM   #32441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
Since were talking about tires.

I have a problem I havnt been able to figure out. No matter what tires I use (black to magenta, jaco and crc) they go off so badly after 6 min'ish that I lose about 3/4 sec per lap. Mostly the front. This summer when it was warm I could get the car to hold on for the whole 8 mins. Now its cooling off they just wont hold n its just gonna get worse. I have gone from stiff to soft on suspention also. Makes no differences. Im running the protoform speed 12 and have the new AMR body in route but hear it only has a little more down force.

I have used paragon and jack with the same results. New lay out or old, doesnt seem to matter. The only thing I can think of is this is the new crc carpet that I was told was made for rubber?

Any help or ideas would be awsome.
Thanks
DK
Dont mix traction compounds on the same rug and/or tires. It will make chemical soup, and will mess up traction. Paragon, when used exclusively and correctly will have traction for a full 8 minutes.

Jack on a track with good grip will last close to the full 8 minutes.

Different things will also affect grip; dirt, temperature, humidity, shadows and even air flow. The new Ozite rug has provisions to be sturdier to allow for rubber tires, however, the fibers are the same type, and the grip shouldn't change between the older type because of the enhancements to cope with rubber tires. We have the new stuff at our track, and on a good night, the grip comes right up, and sticks with us for a couple of days.
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Old 10-13-2009, 10:12 AM   #32442
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Does anybody have a link to where I could buy a micro voltage regulator for my Rx LiPo pack?
Thanks
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:01 PM   #32443
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I am going to switch from NimH to 1s lipo for this winter. Just curious who makes the best 1s lipo? Are deans better to use then banana clips. Does anyone make one you can direct solder? Thanks.
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:03 PM   #32444
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Part time, a couple things to think about.

1. Mixed compounds. Unfortunately not much you can do here since I am talking about different compounds on the track. When everyone runs Paragon, the track is fine but if just ONE guy is using jack, the problem will surface.

2. Run the same compound tire front and rear. This way, the loss of traction is even so at least the balance stays fairly close as the total grip goes down. Magentas seem to be especially good in this sort of condition.

3. For me, moving weight forward seems to help a bit in these conditions. It seems to help the rears stay good a bit longer.
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:21 PM   #32445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Just another day of "Let's spot the math teacher".

Alternative solutions to the problems expressed:

1) Perhaps 1/5 of 1/4 which would be 1/20. See discussion below.

2) The biggest challenge getting measurements down that low is the size of our alignment tools and the size of markings. The tools have to be scaled, more or less, to the cars we are using them on. If you picture a Hudy alignment fixture a couple feet tall you could probably get 1/4 degree marks in there and have them mean something. Doesn't mean the car will hold that (I'm guessing we have at least that much play in the bearings to say nothing of other sources of give). There are a couple problems with fixtures that size though. Firstly, they're kinda cumbersome (look how big boxes are for 3-4" fixtures) and secondly they'd be a good deal heavier. I'd also argue using "levers" that big could easily damage a car should it be bumped or inadvertantly flexed on.

I SUPPOSE you could get 1/4 degree accuracy with nothing more than a caliper and a machinist's square. Get the wheels set perfectly vertical (zero camber) with the machinist's square and make darn sure you move both wheels exactly the same amount. Measuring the distance between the inboard edge of the tire at the top and a little trigonometry ought to get you pretty close, but if your tires aren't exactly the same diameter, you don't measure at exactly the same point, etc and you'll be off by more than his 1/4 degree because with the arc in that small of a radius (expressed by a 1/12 front tire, say either side of 21mm) any variance of arc length becomes a significant number of degrees. This becomes less of a concern the larger the radius, hence the tall fixtures expressed above.
Plus if you are measuring camber on the rim you'll have some inaccuracies there as the rims aren't all flat and get warped when you crash. That's what I like about my Holeshot setup board, it uses blocks on the axle to measure camber and toe. Sure am looking forward to the upcoming Hudy setup system for pan cars
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