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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-12-2009, 02:47 PM   #32416
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The blackhawks are definitely worse than the Jacos as far as bearing fit. Might have something to do with the shrink rate as the plastic cools with the addition of the black dye. I saw several mod drivers scoring the outer edge of the bearing hole with an X-acto at an angle in Vegas. They scored the plastic in a way that created small curls raised off the surface of the bearing hole to create a snug fit . . . works for me.
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Old 10-12-2009, 02:57 PM   #32417
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Anyone hear anything about a new design 1/12 from T.O.P.?
Or a new CEFX?
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Old 10-12-2009, 03:11 PM   #32418
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Default 13.5 1 cell Li-Po

Hi all, I am currently going from 17.5 4 cell to a 13.5 1 cell Li-Po this season. I currently run Pan Cars however knowing that you 12th scale guys have already made the switch to Li-Po I thought I would ask the most experienced in this matter.

Question. How different is your gearing from when you all went from 4 cells to Li-Po? Did it change much? I am asking because I have never ran a Li-Po before and I am searching for answers because I Thermal My motor last Sunday using a Novak 13.5 and a Sphere Speedo with a booster from OHP and not a receiver pack.

I was over geared from when I ran 17.5 4 cells, but I didn't think I was that far off.

Looking for answers, Thanks
Jack
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Old 10-12-2009, 03:31 PM   #32419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackh View Post
Hi all, I am currently going from 17.5 4 cell to a 13.5 1 cell Li-Po this season. I currently run Pan Cars however knowing that you 12th scale guys have already made the switch to Li-Po I thought I would ask the most experienced in this matter.

Question. How different is your gearing from when you all went from 4 cells to Li-Po? Did it change much? I am asking because I have never ran a Li-Po before and I am searching for answers because I Thermal My motor last Sunday using a Novak 13.5 and a Sphere Speedo with a booster from OHP and not a receiver pack.

I was over geared from when I ran 17.5 4 cells, but I didn't think I was that far off.

Looking for answers, Thanks
Jack
What type of speed control will you be using, as this has a lot of effect on rollout?
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Old 10-12-2009, 03:33 PM   #32420
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Originally Posted by myrxseven View Post
What type of speed control will you be using, as this has a lot of effect on rollout?
I currently have a Sphere in the car.
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Old 10-12-2009, 03:40 PM   #32421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GasGod View Post
Anyone hear anything about a new design 1/12 from T.O.P.?
Or a new CEFX?
We have a local T.O.P. sponsed driver who tells me a T.O.P. 1/12 is comming.
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:48 PM   #32422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackh View Post
I currently have a Sphere in the car.
I would say to start in the 85-90mm rollout on a large track. I am running an old school Novak 4cell GTB and on a large track with a small streightaway im rolling out at about 95 with a 1s Lipo.
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:28 PM   #32423
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I sure it's been asked before but what's the difference in the Jaco Yellow and Pink rears? They both have a 30 rating on them. Is it the rubber compound? How do they differ on the track?
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:53 PM   #32424
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Hey Scott, If I remember right the yellow has less rubber content and are less tacky on high bite tracks. Are you going to the coast this weekend?
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:55 PM   #32425
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No, can't find anyone to look after my dog. I guess that's the problem with having an 80lb dog.
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:58 PM   #32426
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What are you guys using to measure camber? Looking for something to measure incraments of 1/4 degree (1/4, 1/2)

Last edited by CanyonCarverR1; 10-13-2009 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:01 PM   #32427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottmisfits View Post
I sure it's been asked before but what's the difference in the Jaco Yellow and Pink rears? They both have a 30 rating on them. Is it the rubber compound? How do they differ on the track?
In my experience the yellows keep the rear end locked down MUCH better on carpet than the pinks. At least on low grip carpet.
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:33 PM   #32428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1 View Post
What are you guys using to measure camber? Looking for something to measure incraments of 1/4 degree (1/4, 1/5)
1) 1/5 is not an increment of 1/4.

2) The CLOSEST I've seen to that level of accuracy would be the Unity station with the protractors, and even then it's not going to be totally accurate to fractions of a degree.

Are you programming moon shots for NASA or racing 1/12? I'm all for getting my car set up as accurately as I can, but a quarter degree "accuracy" is probably not a realistic expectation.
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:37 PM   #32429
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[QUOTE=Ophidian;6465720]Hey Scott, If I remember right the yellow has less rubber content and are less tacky on high bite tracks. QUOTE]

By that token a high rubber content tyre would suit a lower grip surface like asphalt? I'm looking for a good tyre combo for medium grip asphalt tracks that occassionally have a little dust on them if anybody could suggest something?
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Old 10-12-2009, 11:45 PM   #32430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
1) 1/5 is not an increment of 1/4.

Are you programming moon shots for NASA or racing 1/12?
AHA, ha, aha... Scottrik your posts are funny I don't care who you are, that reply is funny (or at least it was to me)!
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