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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-12-2009, 07:24 AM   #32401
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Guys........I apologize if this has been asked before, although I have recently started to run 1/12 Scale Again after a long hiatus.

I have noticed the huge amount of slop on the new Prism Jaco Tires, specifically the front sets.

What is the rest of the 1/12 community have done to try to eliminate these issues associated with slop, I know it the past the bearings used to fit perfectly ........although now days they just slop around.

Has Jaco been notified of these issues, has there been any response from Jack on this????

Now I know there are several companies in the RC community offering 1/12 Scale tires, although I would prefer to stay with Jaco for the moment.

Any information on how to eliminate any of the wheel slop in front would be much appreciated…………………..Thank You in Advance for all your helpful suggestions.

Best Regards!!!!

Alex
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Last edited by Alex C; 10-12-2009 at 07:38 AM.
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:36 AM   #32402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
I saw the mention of running 3 cell NiMh/19 turn in order to have a little parity with LiPo/10.5. My question is: would this be feasible running brushed or is the efficiency not there to make it the full 8 minutes? Would I be better off running a LiPo RX pack with a regulator or an old school 5 cell NiMh RX pack (ESC's are Novak GTS and KO VFS-1)? I will be making the switch to 1s LiPo and brushless when funds allow and when I've burned through the stock of brushed motors and brushes that I have. I also wouldn't mind getting a little more use out of that ancient lathe of mine....

Thanks in advance for any advice!!!!
^^^^ Anyone???

I have another question about 1/12 tire truing arbors: I've got a Team Cobra trackside truer, it's got an arbor for 1/12 front's but I don't have an arbor that I can mount the rears to. Do the Hudy arbors fit? Mine has a 1/4" shaft that the arbors get secured to with a set screw or 2. I've also got a handful of arbors that I have no use for. There's one for touring car wheels and a couple of others that I can't identify. Does anyone need/want these? Any help is always greatly appreciated, thanks!
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:39 AM   #32403
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Slop in what way? Is the play in the tire itself or is it in the axle?
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:44 AM   #32404
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Slop in what way? Is the play in the tire itself or is it in the axle?
Between the tire and the bearing itself, it just seems to slop around inside now days ......... I remember in the past they were somewhat hard to push in.

Now a few fellow team mates have suggested to ca the bearings in the tire, although I am of the opinion to have the Mfr. "Jaco" fix there issues with there Mold.
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Last edited by Alex C; 10-12-2009 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:46 AM   #32405
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Originally Posted by myrxseven View Post
Slop in what way? Is the play in the tire itself or is it in the axle?
I think what he means is the hole is a little wider than the bearing. I've noticed with my Jacos that the inner bearing fits snug but, the outer bearing just falls out. Though, once I have it on the axle and tightened up, I don't really notice any slop.
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:50 AM   #32406
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Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX View Post
I think what he means is the hole is a little wider than the bearing. I've noticed with my Jacos that the inner bearing fits snug but, the outer bearing just falls out. Though, once I have it on the axle and tightened up, I don't really notice any slop.
I've seen the exact same same thing but no slop problems.
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:15 AM   #32407
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[QUOTE=adam lancia;6462238]

I've got a Team Cobra trackside truer.... but I don't have an arbor that I can mount the rears to. QUOTE]

In a pinch you can use a left side rear hub (non pinion side) mounted right on the lathe shaft.

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Old 10-12-2009, 08:15 AM   #32408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex C View Post
Between the tire and the bearing itself, it just seems to just slop around inside now days ......... I remember in the past they were somewhat hard to push in.

Now a few fellow team mates have suggested to ca the bearings in the tire, although I am of the opinion to have the Mfr. "Jaco" fix there issues with there Mold.
We had the same problem at the Carpet Nats with the Blackhawk rims. I was taking a small piece of plastic, about 1/2" square (from a parts bag) and cutting an X in it. Lay the plastic square over the bearing hole in the wheel and press in the bearing. The X will allow the axle to pass through the plastic and should take out the slop in the bearing. Trim the plastic around the outside of the bearing and you are ready to go!
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:15 AM   #32409
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i heard that it was an issue with a certain bach of 1/12 wheels and it has been resolved. the parma blackhawks had the same issue with a batch.
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:30 AM   #32410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
Do the Hudy arbors fit? Mine has a 1/4" shaft that the arbors get secured to with a set screw or 2.
No they won't work. The Hudy (and Integy, Ofna, Eagle, etc) truers use 8mm shafts which are a fair bit larger than 1/4" (a bit over 6mm).
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:40 AM   #32411
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[QUOTE=Lee_123;6462402]
Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post

I've got a Team Cobra trackside truer.... but I don't have an arbor that I can mount the rears to. QUOTE]

In a pinch you can use a left side rear hub (non pinion side) mounted right on the lathe shaft.

Lee B
Now I hadn't thought about that, thanks Lee!

Shame about the Hudy parts not fitting, they look nice.

Can anyone tell me what the arbor's are in the 2 pics that I posted...? Thanks!
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:38 AM   #32412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianrice View Post
We had the same problem at the Carpet Nats with the Blackhawk rims. I was taking a small piece of plastic, about 1/2" square (from a parts bag) and cutting an X in it. Lay the plastic square over the bearing hole in the wheel and press in the bearing. The X will allow the axle to pass through the plastic and should take out the slop in the bearing. Trim the plastic around the outside of the bearing and you are ready to go!
Thank you all for the helpful comments !!!!!!

Alex
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:38 AM   #32413
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...
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Old 10-12-2009, 12:09 PM   #32414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex C View Post
Guys........I apologize if this has been asked before, although I have recently started to run 1/12 Scale Again after a long hiatus.

I have noticed the huge amount of slop on the new Prism Jaco Tires, specifically the front sets.

What is the rest of the 1/12 community have done to try to eliminate these issues associated with slop, I know it the past the bearings used to fit perfectly ........although now days they just slop around.

Has Jaco been notified of these issues, has there been any response from Jack on this????

Now I know there are several companies in the RC community offering 1/12 Scale tires, although I would prefer to stay with Jaco for the moment.

Any information on how to eliminate any of the wheel slop in front would be much appreciated…………………..Thank You in Advance for all your helpful suggestions.

Best Regards!!!!

Alex
Put a piece of tape over the hole in the rim and cut an X in it. Push the bearing into the hole. The tape will take up the slop.
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Old 10-12-2009, 02:39 PM   #32415
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[QUOTE=adam lancia;6462523]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee_123 View Post

Now I hadn't thought about that, thanks Lee!

Shame about the Hudy parts not fitting, they look nice.

Can anyone tell me what the arbor's are in the 2 pics that I posted...? Thanks!
/10 pan car--4hole and 1/12 two hole the two hole rims went extinct around mid 90'sI still have a trinity 1/12 that has 2 hole hubs on it
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