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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-21-2003, 09:29 AM   #3226
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Nice paint!!! How's that car run?? Are you running the stock plastic chassis or the upgraded C/F pieces??

Don't bother with the foam, it won't save much if anything....... Your actually very lucky, they could have snapped your axle clean off........

How do you do agianst the sedans???
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Old 06-21-2003, 10:00 AM   #3227
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Cypressmidwest and SpeedyTC3: The car does have an "L" shaped T-bar and the steering blocks are not sized for ballstuds. I suspect that the small holes are wire size and may predate the turnbuckle age. Some of the damper parts are missing, so it's hard to say if that pod wire was used. There appears to be no provision for a front body post, so the post off the "A" arms sounds about right. I'll try to post a picture, if I can remember where that digital camera went. Thanks!
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Old 06-21-2003, 11:03 AM   #3228
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Graphitedust: Yep Original 12L. The car originally used to Z-bends joined together with a collar with a set screw in it. Man was that ever high-tech.
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Old 06-21-2003, 11:28 AM   #3229
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The "old skool" steering blocks stll don't come predrilled for ball ends...LOL
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Old 06-21-2003, 12:43 PM   #3230
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Here goes...looks like it went. Can anyone identify this Associated car? Looking for model/year. stuff like that. Thanks Guys!
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File Type: jpg unknown 12.jpg (96.0 KB, 160 views)
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Old 06-21-2003, 01:17 PM   #3231
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Default IRS 12th chassis

I was just wondering if anyone has run the new Irs chassis yet and what are there thoughts. It looks pretty cool, but good looking is not always fast. Also was wondering which axle setup is better and why; large diff ring or small (IRS for 12l3 or carpetknife). Thanks.
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Old 06-21-2003, 01:49 PM   #3232
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Quote:
Originally posted by Graphitedust
Here goes...looks like it went. Can anyone identify this Associated car? Looking for model/year. stuff like that. Thanks Guys!
12LW! It's got the rear crossbrace, which means it's not an original L, and the batteries are spaced to far apart to be an LC or L3, plus it's missing the body mount "nipples" of the LC/L3.
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Old 06-21-2003, 04:13 PM   #3233
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The IRS axle is defently the "hook up" as i am sure DavidL would tell you, lol . I have been using their 12 ball yellow axle diff for the past 6 months or so, and i loved it, i literally had to rebuild it only 1/5 the amount of times that i had to rebuild my 6 ball diffs. i just picked up the new graphite axle w/ blue anno'd aluminuim on it for the nats next week (which is D ringed instead of pinned like the yellow axle, so its easier but works just as well). I know that Scotty Earnst used one at the birds and got like 5th or something in stock 12th, he also used one at the carpet nats, but was having some really really bad glitching problems and ended up running mo denton's rev. 3 for his last qual and his main. however the chassis was not causing the glitching.
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Old 06-21-2003, 07:08 PM   #3234
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thanks impactplayr,
still running the plastic chassis. the carbon pan alone is worth more than the whole car and until im much better at it i dont really want to spend too much money. the fibreglass chassis kit is not too much more than the plastic one so that might be the direction i go.I'm doing quite badly with the car at the moment. when it was a hatchback it was keeping up with the pack, winning some, losing some. now with the foam tyres, which are 50% wider than the little rubber jobbies it had when it was a hatchback its sliding all over the place. we are racing on fairly smooth bitumen and so i figure i should go with a softer tyre.
if im lucky i didnt bust my axle then maybe i should stick with a plastic t-bar? i think i'll give the carbon fibre axle a miss then!!
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Old 06-22-2003, 01:24 AM   #3235
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
12LW! It's got the rear crossbrace, which means it's not an original L, and the batteries are spaced to far apart to be an LC or L3, plus it's missing the body mount "nipples" of the LC/L3.
you are right if it had the new front end it would be the RC12LS.

It has the L t-bar not the center t-bar, that one more way to tell too.
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Old 06-22-2003, 10:07 AM   #3236
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Quote:
Originally posted by dpgumby69
thanks impactplayr,
still running the plastic chassis. the carbon pan alone is worth more than the whole car and until im much better at it i dont really want to spend too much money. the fibreglass chassis kit is not too much more than the plastic one so that might be the direction i go.I'm doing quite badly with the car at the moment. when it was a hatchback it was keeping up with the pack, winning some, losing some. now with the foam tyres, which are 50% wider than the little rubber jobbies it had when it was a hatchback its sliding all over the place. we are racing on fairly smooth bitumen and so i figure i should go with a softer tyre.
if im lucky i didnt bust my axle then maybe i should stick with a plastic t-bar? i think i'll give the carbon fibre axle a miss then!!
Try a fibreglass t-bar if you can, the handling should,be more consistant, and it should be much more durable.....

If memory serves me correct the academy cars employ a steel axle, which should resist breakage, bendng could be a problem, but the bolinks cars have use steel axles for some time and they don't seem to have much problem with either........ However a fibreglass t-bar will greatly improve your acceleration......

In all honestly you could upgrade your car with an associated T-bar, Graphite Yokomo SP2001 chassis and top deck, and Associated VCS Micro shock for under $100 USD.... All this and you would have yourself one bad ride!!!
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Old 06-22-2003, 11:21 AM   #3237
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
12LW! It's got the rear crossbrace, which means it's not an original L, and the batteries are spaced to far apart to be an LC or L3, plus it's missing the body mount "nipples" of the LC/L3.
Thanks! How do you tell if it's a 12L or 12LW? What were the differences? Does anyone have a picture of this car so I can see how much of it I'm missing and what I'm looking for? Did this car use a stealth I or stealth II axel/diff? I'm going to try to complete this car with as much original stuff as I can find and put electronics on it that are appropriate for the period. If anyone had one of these cars, what electronics did you use? I've got and old Tekin receiver and speedcontrol that may be appropriate. Any info is appreciated!
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Old 06-22-2003, 02:55 PM   #3238
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Default axle

Hey Graphitedust, I have a complete axle and left hub for a 12lc. if it is correct for your restoration, just give me your mailing address and I will send it to you. It is brand new and has never even seen any action. LMK, Art
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Old 06-22-2003, 10:17 PM   #3239
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Muffin: Thanks! You,ve got PM.
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Old 06-22-2003, 10:27 PM   #3240
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12th scale question?

I want a car I can run outside and on carpet.Is there a car that is really competitive on both surfaces?I want a Rev3,but don't know if thats the right car for both.Let me know what you think.
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