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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-03-2009, 10:19 PM   #32341
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[QUOTE=CarbonJoe;6425048]
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Thanks
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:37 AM   #32342
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Can anyone give me a good starting setup for 10.5t/4cell running on PrimaTrack GT in low to med bite conditions. There is only about ten of us running 1/12th so there isn't much additive layed down during the day.

My mate has just picked one up so I'm doing the donkey work for him and finding out what i can for the car. I'm guessing the Protoform Nissan is still the recommended shell for beginners to 1/12th?
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:47 AM   #32343
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I'm guessing the Protoform Nissan is still the recommended shell for beginners to 1/12th?
If you find a hidden supply of those please let us know--there are a few people on here who'd like to have one.

No, 1/12 has followed the path of most other RC classes. Any semblance of "real car" has been slain on the altar of speed. Not sure what EFRA or BRCA allow as to specific bodies so really can't make any recommendations.
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:53 AM   #32344
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i think the new protoform amr12 is efra approaved
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Old 10-05-2009, 08:26 AM   #32345
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AFAIK the SMC pack does not have the ROAR-approved sticker on it, though I could certainly be mistaken. The pic(s) I've seen of the Reedy pack show a "ROAR Approved" but I haven't actually seen any of these available on the street yet either.

The one I HAVE seen available 'on the street' is the Trinity IP which also has the ROAR sticker on it AND is not yet approved. As far as I'm concerned Trinity is not doing racers ANY favors by selling this pack as ROAR-approved when it is clearly not (yet, anyway).

Best-case scenario is it gets approved and everybody is happy.

Bad-case scenario is it fails the approval process for some reason and folks are stuck with non-approved packs that clearly say they're approved.

Worst-case scenario is that prior to approval (or after it fails approval) one of the packs fails and causes personal injury or significant property damage. Individual and/or club who THOUGHT they were protected by the ROAR insurance find out THEY'RE left holding the bag since the failure was a non-approved battery.

Folks are quick to dismiss the realities of liability. Our club is in an UPROAR right now because 1s LiPos are a pita and we're trying to implement them for our race season that starts a week from Sunday. We absolutely cannot allow non-approved batteries (none of us can write a check to, say, replace the Shrine), and the "approved" batteries are all supposedly obsoleted by the next wave of cells that aren't approved yet.

Does anybody besides me have SERIOUS heartburn re: ROAR's approval schedule? I could go into their rationale for why approvals are scheduled the way they are but I'll save that for a rant later. As it is I have a call in to Dawn and this (as well as some ideas I have to help solve some of it) is one of the items I want to visit with her about.

Scottrik
Thanks for the feedback...I agree with you 100%. If the packs are not on the ROAR approved list and racers are using them under the false pretense that the packaging claims its ROAR approved pack were going to have problems if and when something bad happens.

I support ROAR for the "inexpensive" insurance it affords racers and R/C clubs...for a manufacturer to inaccurately claim their product is approved is a irresponsible.
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:30 AM   #32346
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Originally Posted by Conrad View Post
Can anyone give me a good starting setup for 10.5t/4cell running on PrimaTrack GT in low to med bite conditions. There is only about ten of us running 1/12th so there isn't much additive layed down during the day.

My mate has just picked one up so I'm doing the donkey work for him and finding out what i can for the car. I'm guessing the Protoform Nissan is still the recommended shell for beginners to 1/12th?
Protoform Nissan? Wow, I haven't seen those in a long time.
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:08 PM   #32347
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What in the minimum wire guage that can be used from the ESC to the motor for a RS/13.5.
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:16 PM   #32348
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What in the minimum wire guage that can be used from the ESC to the motor for a RS/13.5.
16AWG should do just fine.
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:34 PM   #32349
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
No, 1/12 has followed the path of most other RC classes. Any semblance of "real car" has been slain on the altar of speed. Not sure what EFRA or BRCA allow as to specific bodies so really can't make any recommendations.
I love this statement as it pertains to the Proto P-35, a body which looks less like a P-35 Nissan than, a Parma Speed 8 looks like a bentley. That was the body that started the "no resemblance revolution" whether Dale intended it to or not.
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Old 10-05-2009, 01:09 PM   #32350
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Originally Posted by theisgroup View Post
i think the new protoform amr12 is efra approaved
It is, and would be a good body to start with. HTH
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:56 PM   #32351
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Default Steering

Hey guys how much steering deg do you set on your car? 30 deg .?
How can I get the right steering throw?
And steering speed?
I use a ko helios and set my steering to 110 travel, steering speed to 100, return 100. My mate that tries my car says that its too sensible... I find it ok for me.
Cheers
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:26 AM   #32352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uga View Post
16AWG should do just fine.
I use 16 gauge with a 4.0

Although some of the 16 guage wires are more flexible than others.
I use the deans ultra one, TQ are meant to have a really good one.

I tried the muchmore one and its no where near as flexible.
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:30 AM   #32353
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Originally Posted by ds400 View Post
Hey guys how much steering deg do you set on your car? 30 deg .?
How can I get the right steering throw?
And steering speed?
I use a ko helios and set my steering to 110 travel, steering speed to 100, return 100. My mate that tries my car says that its too sensible... I find it ok for me.
Cheers
Most likely you'll find that well before your steering maxes out your knuckles will physically hit something and stop turning. I back mine off until the knuckles don't max out anymore then slowly increase it 1 step at a time until just before they touch. Then if I need to reduce steering from there I use dual rate.
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:16 AM   #32354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
I love this statement as it pertains to the Proto P-35, a body which looks less like a P-35 Nissan than, a Parma Speed 8 looks like a bentley. That was the body that started the "no resemblance revolution" whether Dale intended it to or not.
My mistake. Perhaps I was thinking of the McAllister Nissan which wasn't the P-35 but one of the (somewhat) earlier IMSA cars. I know I had that body for 1/10 pan and I think there was a similar body for the 1/12. Not a bad likeness (as vac-formed lexan goes) and certainly from an era where the bodies were far more "scale".
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:18 AM   #32355
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Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
Thanks for the feedback...I agree with you 100%. If the packs are not on the ROAR approved list and racers are using them under the false pretense that the packaging claims its ROAR approved pack were going to have problems if and when something bad happens.

I support ROAR for the "inexpensive" insurance it affords racers and R/C clubs...for a manufacturer to inaccurately claim their product is approved is a irresponsible.
As it turns out ROAR have updated their list yesterday with SEVERAL new batteries including the Trinity/Epic IP single cell, so "danger" has passed. I still think it is (was) irresponsible for someone to sell a product as approved before it received such approval regardless how sure they were, etc.
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