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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-02-2009, 01:18 AM   #32311
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Default new to 1\12 scale

k i have no ideal about these cars. i have to ae 12l4. just built indoor track at lhs. i need to know how to setup these cars. i have one that i put together and tried running but i must be way off. i am running 4600 ni mih and co 27 motor with novak gt7. car pulls to left bad if i give it full throttle. trim is straight. if i go slow at first then gradually go to full throttle no proble. was told its my t bar and i dont know what changes to make. i am 1/8 offroader so this is whole new world to me. if there is any web sites that may help i can read up on 1/12 stuff i would love to. please somone help. pm me if u have anything that could help me.
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Old 10-02-2009, 07:26 AM   #32312
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Default Axle shims

Check and see that your axle is spaced correctly from side to side. Use a calipers and measure from the center of th rear pod to the inside of the wheels. The measurements should be even or pretty darn close, if not shim them to make them even.
Also check to see that the cars not tweaked on a flat surface or on a tweak board if you have one.

Last edited by shaggy1; 10-02-2009 at 07:29 AM. Reason: More info
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Old 10-02-2009, 08:39 AM   #32313
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Speaking of Liability Scottrik, I'd have thought Trinity may have a little better sense than that. Amazing their selling those batteries with the ROAR sticker. Some sort of odd unfortunate accident occurs and ROAR is on firm ground, who will take on the liability? Trinity would be hosed. Still waiting on my Pulse motor replacement from their last fiasco.

Aaron
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Old 10-02-2009, 09:31 AM   #32314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mixedguy View Post
k i have no ideal about these cars. i have to ae 12l4. just built indoor track at lhs. i need to know how to setup these cars. i have one that i put together and tried running but i must be way off. i am running 4600 ni mih and co 27 motor with novak gt7. car pulls to left bad if i give it full throttle. trim is straight. if i go slow at first then gradually go to full throttle no proble. was told its my t bar and i dont know what changes to make. i am 1/8 offroader so this is whole new world to me. if there is any web sites that may help i can read up on 1/12 stuff i would love to. please somone help. pm me if u have anything that could help me.
What you have is called torque steer and can be caused by a couple of things. First follow the advice given by shaggy the axle needs to be centered perfectly even one mm to one side will produce this type of effect. Second you need to check your tweak, if you dont have a tweak station use the two pennys method. And third you need to have a properly setup diff, smooth but not too tight or loose. Here is a link to an excelent 1/12 setup resource.
http://richardchang.com/hobby.php?topic=112setup

This link will walk you through the steps of a proper diff rebuild
1/12 forum
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Old 10-02-2009, 09:48 AM   #32315
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The "left pull" can also be caused by binding in the rear axle. Any binding in the rear axle will cause more power to be put into the right rear tire (diffing out slightly), pulling the car to the left under power. A hub that is too tight, bent axle, bad bearing, different ride height spacers, or shims that rub the outer bearing race can all cause binding in the axle.
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Old 10-02-2009, 05:19 PM   #32316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gubbs3 View Post
The "left pull" can also be caused by binding in the rear axle. Any binding in the rear axle will cause more power to be put into the right rear tire (diffing out slightly), pulling the car to the left under power. A hub that is too tight, bent axle, bad bearing, different ride height spacers, or shims that rub the outer bearing race can all cause binding in the axle.
Ive had my car pull one direction on green carpet despite the car not being tweaked and the axle centered etc. Sometimes if grip is low enough, the slightest difference in traction between the two drive wheels causes the car to "tank" and pull one direction.
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Old 10-02-2009, 07:16 PM   #32317
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Before I reply I will state that this is from my own experience as a newb carpet muncher. lol anyways I experienced a similar thing. It happen for a couple of reasons on my car.

1) The tires I started with were too hard for the track I was running on and I was getting wheel spin when on the throttle. Which was not evident untill I started to get a bit better and faster.

2) once that was fixed I still had the problem but it was much less. Now what had happened is since there are more of one corner than the other. (right vs left) the right sode had more wear on it and it caused the outside of the tires to become conical. outside of tire was norrower than the inside. which on the straight caused lack of traction on the right side.

3) Even if you car is tweaked right it still may be out of balance. my car was 3g heaver on the right (compounding the problem above) so I reset the car with a .5g left weighted balance. (I know I'll get flack for that) anyways. I hope this just gives you some idea's

I am no genius, still a newb in the B main
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Old 10-02-2009, 09:18 PM   #32318
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Okay guys, I'm in need of some blackhawk tires in purple and lilac fronts 1/12th of course and stormer is out of stock, do you know where I can get some? I've seen a few online but they are costing more than normal. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:05 PM   #32319
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Originally Posted by picco007 View Post
Okay guys, I'm in need of some blackhawk tires in purple and lilac fronts 1/12th of course and stormer is out of stock, do you know where I can get some? I've seen a few online but they are costing more than normal. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
If it's a performance thing rather than a style thing, my advice would be to purchase the tires you're seeking in the Jaco Prism line. Same tires, same wheels, only difference is the wheels are white instead of grey/black.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:19 PM   #32320
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He just wants his wheels all to match, look good and perform as well.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:22 PM   #32321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
If it's a performance thing rather than a style thing, my advice would be to purchase the tires you're seeking in the Jaco Prism line. Same tires, same wheels, only difference is the wheels are white instead of grey/black.
Everything I have is Blackhawk at this time.....I would love to get what I need in black but if I can't then I will switch back to the Jaco line. Just want to keep everything the same color.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:44 PM   #32322
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Honestly...I'll bet you don't let your food touch on your plate either.

I half-figured it was a style issue.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:54 PM   #32323
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Default tires

Picco,
you have a PM about tires.

Robert
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Old 10-03-2009, 02:31 AM   #32324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picco007 View Post
Okay guys, I'm in need of some blackhawk tires in purple and lilac fronts 1/12th of course and stormer is out of stock, do you know where I can get some? I've seen a few online but they are costing more than normal. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
The Blackhawk tires and rims are made by Jaco for Parma...however I find the Blackhawk front rims have an extreme amount of play in the front bearings where the Jaco rims do not. I would like to stay with black rims too but not with that much bearing play...stick with the Jaco rims, you will be better off.
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Old 10-03-2009, 02:56 AM   #32325
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Default Regulator

What regulator are you guys running in your 1s lipo cars?

Can a car be run without a regulator, or will it damage the servo if i do?

Is this regulator ok for 1/12th 1s lipo racing?
http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...roducts_id=820

Thanks Antoni
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