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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-01-2009, 12:46 PM   #32296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmig View Post
Would a Novak GTB ESC and 5.5 wind work well for 1s lipo racing??
T
Hi timmig,
I also race 1/5 with Greater LA. If you're planning on running indoor carpet 1/12 at OCRC then you may want to go with a 13.5 motor because that's the consistent 1/12 class we race on both Thursdays and Saturdays. Also you'll find that the GTB will be slower than your competiton because you'll need an esc that has some form of timing enhancement. There are a few guys who'll race mod with you, but they show up irregularly. For the majority, the 13.5s are very fast with some really close racing.
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Old 10-01-2009, 01:08 PM   #32297
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Thanks--- I'll get the 13.5-- which Novak ESC will work with that best? Is that setup for 1s lipo?
T
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Old 10-01-2009, 02:11 PM   #32298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
You two really should know better by now. There are people on here that'll actually take what you wrote seriously



Well done on the IIC results Frank, you and your guys deserved it.

Trev
Heheheh ya, your'e right Trev, I just couldn't pass up the opportunity.

Thanks for the nice words, we had a killer week in Vegas at the IIC.

Thanks,
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Old 10-01-2009, 04:40 PM   #32299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco1 View Post
Could you show me in a diagram/scheme how to connect the Hobbywing booster ?
Pics say it all



Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
I can no longer hold out for the 1s saddle pack...therefore I'm forced to purchase a 1s brick pack in the meantime...

Question: What pack would you suggest...is there a difference in Lipo pack performance between the manufacturers like there was in Nicad and Nimh...at least I always thought there was?

i'm considering:

1.) Reedy 4600 3.7 40c (with 3.5 bullet)

2.) SMC 4950 3.7 50c (not sure if there is a performance difference between 40-50c?)

3.) Thunder Power 5000 3.7 40c

Most are closly priced...not a big fan of deans connectors so I'm leaning toward the Reedy pack...but would like some constructive input.

Being used in a Rev 5, KO BMC1.5v speedo, RX pack and KO radio gear...saddle pack will go into the CEFX once they become available...

thanks for the guidance in advance.
Well I'm no expert but my first TP 5000 40c I sent back for poor performance, it was consitantly slower than my much older and well used 4000 SMC. I sent the track result sheets in to prove it. Thay replaced it but even this replacement does'nt have the pull that that old SMC pack has. I'm looking to pick up a new SMC 50c pack to try out now. Like you I'm not a big fan of the deans but I'm making the best of it.
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Old 10-01-2009, 05:51 PM   #32300
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I've had fantastic results with the TP 5000 1S 40c packs. I haven't turned a lap since switching from my SMC 4000's, there was no point. That's all the experience I have with single cells at the moment.
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Old 10-01-2009, 06:21 PM   #32301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
I can no longer hold out for the 1s saddle pack...therefore I'm forced to purchase a 1s brick pack in the meantime...

Question: What pack would you suggest...is there a difference in Lipo pack performance between the manufacturers like there was in Nicad and Nimh...at least I always thought there was?

i'm considering:

1.) Reedy 4600 3.7 40c (with 3.5 bullet)

2.) SMC 4950 3.7 50c (not sure if there is a performance difference between 40-50c?)

3.) Thunder Power 5000 3.7 40c

Most are closly priced...not a big fan of deans connectors so I'm leaning toward the Reedy pack...but would like some constructive input.

Being used in a Rev 5, KO BMC1.5v speedo, RX pack and KO radio gear...saddle pack will go into the CEFX once they become available...

thanks for the guidance in advance.
Note that of the three you've mentioned only the Thunder Power pack is currently ROAR-approved. Not to say they won't be approved, just that they aren't currently. Again, a non-issue if your club isn't relying upon ROAR for insurance, but if you ARE relying on ROAR insurance you want to make damn certain you're using packs that are on the approved list and nothing else.
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:28 PM   #32302
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The smc 1s pack is available as a with a deans connector and inboard connectors aswell Im pretty sure at least.. Cant remember were i saw them

Antoni
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:30 PM   #32303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H I View Post
Make sure you use regulator on receiver pack.
Plug receiver pack into regulator, regulator into BEC in receiver.
Leave ESC switch off and use only receiver pack switch to turn your car on.
Turn off lipo cut off. In mod 1 cell don't have as much punch as 4 cell so light weight should help. Make your car weight down to 750g if you can but Left-Right balance is more important than light weight I think.
Thanks again

Antoni
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:36 PM   #32304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
The smc 1s pack is available as a with a deans connector and inboard connectors aswell Im pretty sure at least.. Cant remember were i saw them

Antoni
Antoni,

NexusRacing has them in Stock......... you can find them HERE !!!

Regards,
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:36 PM   #32305
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SMC 50C+ with inboard connectors
http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...fd60248ca87532

But out of stock

Antoni
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Old 10-01-2009, 08:48 PM   #32306
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Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
I don't understand what you mean.? There is no indication that the pack swelled or has suffered any damage. I am sure that repeated episodes of high discharge will hurt the packs but in this isolated incident I see no issues with continuing to use this battery.
Did you open the case up? I'm doubting that a lipo would come away from almost a dead short completely unscathed.
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Old 10-01-2009, 08:50 PM   #32307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Note that of the three you've mentioned only the Thunder Power pack is currently ROAR-approved. Not to say they won't be approved, just that they aren't currently. Again, a non-issue if your club isn't relying upon ROAR for insurance, but if you ARE relying on ROAR insurance you want to make damn certain you're using packs that are on the approved list and nothing else.
Thanks for the advice...I'll have to 2x check the ROAR website before ordering...but I thought the SMC and Reedy packs had ROAR approved stickers on them?

I'll probably lean towards the Reedy Pack...I like the step case and 3.5mm plugs

appreciate the feedback
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Old 10-01-2009, 09:27 PM   #32308
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Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
Thanks for the advice...I'll have to 2x check the ROAR website before ordering...but I thought the SMC and Reedy packs had ROAR approved stickers on them?

I'll probably lean towards the Reedy Pack...I like the step case and 3.5mm plugs

appreciate the feedback
AFAIK the SMC pack does not have the ROAR-approved sticker on it, though I could certainly be mistaken. The pic(s) I've seen of the Reedy pack show a "ROAR Approved" but I haven't actually seen any of these available on the street yet either.

The one I HAVE seen available 'on the street' is the Trinity IP which also has the ROAR sticker on it AND is not yet approved. As far as I'm concerned Trinity is not doing racers ANY favors by selling this pack as ROAR-approved when it is clearly not (yet, anyway).

Best-case scenario is it gets approved and everybody is happy.

Bad-case scenario is it fails the approval process for some reason and folks are stuck with non-approved packs that clearly say they're approved.

Worst-case scenario is that prior to approval (or after it fails approval) one of the packs fails and causes personal injury or significant property damage. Individual and/or club who THOUGHT they were protected by the ROAR insurance find out THEY'RE left holding the bag since the failure was a non-approved battery.

Folks are quick to dismiss the realities of liability. Our club is in an UPROAR right now because 1s LiPos are a pita and we're trying to implement them for our race season that starts a week from Sunday. We absolutely cannot allow non-approved batteries (none of us can write a check to, say, replace the Shrine), and the "approved" batteries are all supposedly obsoleted by the next wave of cells that aren't approved yet.

Does anybody besides me have SERIOUS heartburn re: ROAR's approval schedule? I could go into their rationale for why approvals are scheduled the way they are but I'll save that for a rant later. As it is I have a call in to Dawn and this (as well as some ideas I have to help solve some of it) is one of the items I want to visit with her about.

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Old 10-01-2009, 10:47 PM   #32309
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The C-Maxx 4900mah SMC batteries definately do not have ROAR stickers on them. I have a couple I bought for the IIC. I agree with Scott on this schedule thing...Now that 1 cell is the way the class is going there needs to be a diverse selection of legal batteries quickly! There isn't any 1 cell packs on the list yet that use bullet connectors and using Deans in a 1/12th is a real pain...it can be done but no matter what it always looks messy.
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Old 10-02-2009, 01:08 AM   #32310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmig View Post
Thanks--- I'll get the 13.5-- which Novak ESC will work with that best? Is that setup for 1s lipo?
T
Well if you're intent on using a Novak speed control the GTB 4cell will work the best in your 1/12. But until Novak comes out with a speed control that has some type of timing advance you can expect to be giving up some motor speed to a few different manufacturers speed controls.
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