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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-28-2009, 07:39 PM   #32251
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Hey Guys,
I am getting back into 12th scale
I have a couple questions

Running 13.5 rs tekin with a 3.7 5000 lipo on carpet
what is the best booster for this set up?

Thanks and God Bless
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:56 PM   #32252
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Anyone tried the SMC receiver battery, with an inbuilt switch? the 450mah one? PN SMC 450RCP

How is it? Seems big and heavy

Should i be looking at getting one of these instead of a booster, due to the runtime factor

Thanks Antoni
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Old 09-28-2009, 08:09 PM   #32253
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
For the Sydney guys:
My wife and I are traveling to Sydney this Oct.... something like the 22nd through the 29th. We'll be staying in Sydney taking various day trips and tours. Will there be any racing going on while I am in town? Anyone need some thrust kits or bumpers? Never know when you can make a biz trip out it! Any must "see's" that does not require me to be included on the food chain? Any tips, please PM me.

Wonder if she would notice if I slipped a car in the luggage.

Brian
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Hi Brian

Good to hear your coming to OZ, plenty of things to see and do in and around Sydney. Just let us know what your into.

Not a great deal of events around that time, most of the series etc have all wound up. With only our nationals to go on 20-23 Nov (BTW not much real 12th racing apart from the nats)

Plenty of weekday and weekend clubbies though.

If you wanna chat email me at bradd.vercoe@unwiredaustralia.com.au

BTW - Have had a thrust for ages, was used to win last yearsc nationl titles in mod class.
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Old 09-28-2009, 10:12 PM   #32254
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Originally Posted by Crashby View Post
Wait a minute, Brian!

First a fishing trip and now a trip to Australia?!?!? So I guess my new single cell lipo Slapmaster ride won't be ready until you get back from down under?!?! Come on, Man! Where are your priorities! Knowing my luck you will get eaten by some crock or something and I will never get a Slapmaster. Can you leave a note at home that if you get eaten, I can have your car?
I should show you the nice silvers we picked up the other day!

Actually, I have been working pretty hard on the MS3L since we got home from Vegas minus those return days recovering my energy and memory. We came up with teeny tiny little flaw in the car that I want to address before I put any up for sale. I've said before, I was not interested in a B+ car. While I feel that a pair of A Main showings was proof enough, I can't help but think that I left just a little on the tables. I am due to have some new material show up this week and a tiny fastener revision to test. Once that has been thoroughly bashed, I will know the future of the car. The good news is that I got a chance to run some mod with the 1S last week. What a blast! That was the first chance to run mod in over 2 1/2 years.... we just don't have access to it locally. I know that we are staring that the start of carpet season and everyone is getting ready. You can count on me announcing it here first when the car will be ready.

Brian
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Old 09-28-2009, 10:23 PM   #32255
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
Hi Brian

Good to hear your coming to OZ, plenty of things to see and do in and around Sydney. Just let us know what your into.

Not a great deal of events around that time, most of the series etc have all wound up. With only our nationals to go on 20-23 Nov (BTW not much real 12th racing apart from the nats)

Plenty of weekday and weekend clubbies though.

If you wanna chat email me at bradd.vercoe@unwiredaustralia.com.au

BTW - Have had a thrust for ages, was used to win last yearsc nationl titles in mod class.
Now if I could just get a few of those thrusts to wear out..... sales would be going through the roof!

We'll be staying in Potts Point but wont be getting a rental car.... apparently we don't drive on the correct side of the street. Even if I swung by to check out some club racing, would be great. I am sure that we'll see & do most of the popular things. It's far too big a country to do it all!
Brian
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:41 AM   #32256
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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Anyone tried the SMC receiver battery, with an inbuilt switch? the 450mah one? PN SMC 450RCP

How is it? Seems big and heavy

Should i be looking at getting one of these instead of a booster, due to the runtime factor

Thanks Antoni
Another option for receiver pack would be:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=DYN1429
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:44 AM   #32257
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
I should show you the nice silvers we picked up the other day!

Actually, I have been working pretty hard on the MS3L since we got home from Vegas minus those return days recovering my energy and memory. We came up with teeny tiny little flaw in the car that I want to address before I put any up for sale. I've said before, I was not interested in a B+ car. While I feel that a pair of A Main showings was proof enough, I can't help but think that I left just a little on the tables. I am due to have some new material show up this week and a tiny fastener revision to test. Once that has been thoroughly bashed, I will know the future of the car. The good news is that I got a chance to run some mod with the 1S last week. What a blast! That was the first chance to run mod in over 2 1/2 years.... we just don't have access to it locally. I know that we are staring that the start of carpet season and everyone is getting ready. You can count on me announcing it here first when the car will be ready.

Brian
Nice catch, Brian!!! Do you do catch and release or did that sucker end up over the mantel or on the plate?

Just let me know as soon as the kits are available. I want two, please!!

s-
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:51 AM   #32258
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Originally Posted by 1fastdude View Post
Another option for receiver pack would be:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=DYN1429
Eli are you using anything to cut the volts down to 6 from 7.4? That way it don't kill the servo.
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:53 AM   #32259
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I use the SPEKTRUM DX3R radio and there is no need to reduce voltage to the receiver. The voltage is a little harder on the servo, but as far as signal is concerned it is fine.
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Old 09-29-2009, 11:30 AM   #32260
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I use the SPEKTRUM DX3R radio and there is no need to reduce voltage to the receiver. The voltage is a little harder on the servo, but as far as signal is concerned it is fine.
I also have DX3R,the servo (jrz3650) was my concern. I heard they work but wont live long. It just shortens the life of the servo.. And for what these cost I can not afford to burn them up all the time..Thanks Eli..
Heres the lipo I bought to set up in mine.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSB0863
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Old 09-29-2009, 11:39 AM   #32261
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Originally Posted by Crashby View Post
Nice catch, Brian!!! Do you do catch and release or did that sucker end up over the mantel or on the plate?

Just let me know as soon as the kits are available. I want two, please!!

s-
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Old 09-29-2009, 11:43 AM   #32262
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I also have DX3R,the servo (jrz3650) was my concern. I heard they work but wont live long. It just shortens the life of the servo.. And for what these cost I can not afford to burn them up all the time..Thanks Eli..
Heres the lipo I bought to set up in mine.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSB0863
Yes, that lipo is fine also. Any of the 2 cell lipos are fine. I would give Sonny Brown a call at Horizon and see what exactly he says. I would also say that if you are running 13.5, 17.5 or 21.5 that you may not even need the receiver pack! I also have tried the TQCells booster and it works fine as well.

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Old 09-29-2009, 11:23 PM   #32263
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Yes, that lipo is fine also. Any of the 2 cell lipos are fine. I would give Sonny Brown a call at Horizon and see what exactly he says. I would also say that if you are running 13.5, 17.5 or 21.5 that you may not even need the receiver pack! I also have tried the TQCells booster and it works fine as well.

KO is only servo i have heard of that says they are tested for 2s lipo voltage levels. but i have been using a booster without any troubles. ( i am glad to not have a 2nd battery to forget to charge!)
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Old 09-29-2009, 11:36 PM   #32264
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As far as the booster vs RX pack debate goes, have I correctly understood that in all but mod 10.5 and under) a booster is sufficient?

Thanks to all the guys doing all the guinea-pigging and testing this stuff and posting it online for everyone to see and learn from.
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:32 AM   #32265
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I dunno about the other boosters but I used the Novak booster and it gives a full 6v and works great.
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