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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-26-2009, 09:14 AM   #32236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
I'm not sure where you got that from Chris. Those cars that did dump during qualifying were those that had bad set-ups. In the A Final, the laps of the top three hardly drop off at all.

In reality, 5000mAh is more than enough to power a Mod 12th car for eight minutes if it is well set up, and driven smoothly - which is always the best way to get a fast time in 12th!!
I only remember seeing two cars dump in vegas . . .and it was on the last lap . . .in qualifying. In the mains I didn't see any problems.
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Old 09-26-2009, 10:33 AM   #32237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
I'm not sure where you got that from Chris. Those cars that did dump during qualifying were those that had bad set-ups. In the A Final, the laps of the top three hardly drop off at all.

In reality, 5000mAh is more than enough to power a Mod 12th car for eight minutes if it is well set up, and driven smoothly - which is always the best way to get a fast time in 12th!!
From quotes like this one and there was one or two others that I read but did'nt look for. Plus he is runing on a large outdoor track; I've read that alot of the tracks outside of the US are designed for 1/8 gas cars. And as this is club racing its very possible that not every driver is going to be a pro like the mod class at IIC; so yes I do think that dumping is a possible issue, but in rereading my post I was a bit worst case with the wording so I've edited my post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny-b23 View Post
All Lipo at IIC. Naoto Matsukura dumped in one of his 1/12 Mod qualifiers. If anyone got pics of how swollen the pack was, you should post them here or the IIC thread.
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Old 09-26-2009, 12:34 PM   #32238
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If I remember correctly most 1/12th scale cars were running 4 or 4.5 turn mod's. The other thing is that most if not all of them ditched the booster and then switched to a battery.

Also, it was made known that CEFX and TOP were going to work together on the 1/12th scale car. So Josh was running a TOP CEFX 1/12th Prototype car.
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Old 09-26-2009, 08:10 PM   #32239
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Thanks for that info guys

Considering that the iic track is about 1/6th- 1/8th of the size of track that we will be running on, it sounds like im gonna have some troubles with run time. And asphalt, getting wheelspin so ill be using more mah again

So i might as well not get a booster, but rather a receiver battery? Correct, consdering alot of you have said that most of the mod guys were using them.

Thanks for your input and help

Antoni
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Old 09-27-2009, 06:00 AM   #32240
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Antoni, I ran 5000mAh 1cell lipo today here in Sydney and got TQ and 2nd.
I won 3rd A final and was most laps out of all 12th scale racers today.
It only used 3000mAh using Novak 4.5L motor with 37mm rollout. Having said that today was very windy day and very dusty condition thanks to dust storm (Iím sure youíve seen news) and lap time was 3 sec per lap slower than normal.
I may need to put 3.5 motor in to keep up with 4cell nimh if condition is better, then it maybe use up all mAh.
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Old 09-27-2009, 10:33 AM   #32241
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Well there were three fast guys today and i couldve been fast if i were a decent driver (finished fourth). I ran Lipo with 4.0 X12 with 13mm (optional) rotor and the motor timing fully retarded. RS Pro timing 80 and i think 84 on the current limiter.
With some ridiculous rollout on it.
I think started around 38mm rollout but the motor was stone cold and i kept gearing it up to try and make it softer down low. I think the higher i geared it the faster i went.
I estimate i ended around 44mm rollout, but you guys probably dont want to setup a car like me, and it was pretty cold and windy out today.

Dont know what the last run ended with but the first 5 runs of the day were only using about 3000 mah including running the novak booster. I was using more mah as i geared it up and was getting more confidence punching the throttle.


HI had the RS Pro with current limiter off . Btw next time you run make sure remind me to check how hot the speedie gets HI. I found running the current limiter the RS ran a lot colder.

Of the two other drivers one ran NiMhs, i think he said he had loads of power but couldnt use it in the track conditions. And the other fast guy (winner) was an RS (standard) with novak 4.5R and 1s with receiver pack. But he was running a funny setup i think the battery was in series with a 1s receiver pack that went into a voltage regulator (but dont quote me on that).

Based on my ability to keep up with the other fast guys i would say that HI was easily the fastest car on the track but had um assistance with bad starts in the first two finals.


Oh i forgot, i was doing a RIDICULOUS amount of warm up laps. Like i would estimate a minimum of 3 laps every run. Yeah i am that bad **EEK**
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Old 09-27-2009, 07:22 PM   #32242
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Thanks for that info guys

Be interesting to see the results at the nats

Antoni
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Old 09-27-2009, 09:09 PM   #32243
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Hey, I just got a Tamiya Tam-Tech GT-01 and when I run it the reverse gear is excellent, the steering is excellent, but the forward gear is very poor, half the time it works poorly and the other half of the time it won't engage at all. I'm a noob to RC cars. The car was purchased used. Any advice on what I should do to fix the problem?

Thanks!
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Old 09-27-2009, 09:20 PM   #32244
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you may not get the answers in this thread. This thread is for 1/12 pan cars. basically 2 wheel drive and foam tires.
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Old 09-27-2009, 09:31 PM   #32245
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you may not get the answers in this thread. This thread is for 1/12 pan cars. basically 2 wheel drive and foam tires.
Thanks for the advice, I'll look for a better thread or make one then.
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Old 09-27-2009, 11:32 PM   #32246
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booster or pack? Any significant advantage to either?

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Old 09-28-2009, 03:07 PM   #32247
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Hey there guys. I am looking to switch my stock car into a mod. I am currently running tq 16 gauge wire. I see that tq makes a 13 ga wire as well. Would this wire be ok to run with a 7.5 in my 1/12 and still not have to worry about the wire tweaking the rear end? Any help would be great. Thanks a lot
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Old 09-28-2009, 03:23 PM   #32248
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Originally Posted by WIITA View Post
Hey there guys. I am looking to switch my stock car into a mod. I am currently running tq 16 gauge wire. I see that tq makes a 13 ga wire as well. Would this wire be ok to run with a 7.5 in my 1/12 and still not have to worry about the wire tweaking the rear end? Any help would be great. Thanks a lot
I ran a 6.5 on 16 awg. Wires were a little warm but nothing to worry about. Not too sure it would hold a 4.5 though. I pulled 3600 mah on a 90x36 ft track. High 9's to low 10's laps.


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Old 09-28-2009, 06:20 PM   #32249
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For the Sydney guys:
My wife and I are traveling to Sydney this Oct.... something like the 22nd through the 29th. We'll be staying in Sydney taking various day trips and tours. Will there be any racing going on while I am in town? Anyone need some thrust kits or bumpers? Never know when you can make a biz trip out it! Any must "see's" that does not require me to be included on the food chain? Any tips, please PM me.

Wonder if she would notice if I slipped a car in the luggage.

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Old 09-28-2009, 06:39 PM   #32250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
For the Sydney guys:
My wife and I are traveling to Sydney this Oct.... something like the 22nd through the 29th. We'll be staying in Sydney taking various day trips and tours. Will there be any racing going on while I am in town? Anyone need some thrust kits or bumpers? Never know when you can make a biz trip out it! Any must "see's" that does not require me to be included on the food chain? Any tips, please PM me.

Wonder if she would notice if I slipped a car in the luggage.

Brian
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Wait a minute, Brian!

First a fishing trip and now a trip to Australia?!?!? So I guess my new single cell lipo Slapmaster ride won't be ready until you get back from down under?!?! Come on, Man! Where are your priorities! Knowing my luck you will get eaten by some crock or something and I will never get a Slapmaster. Can you leave a note at home that if you get eaten, I can have your car?
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