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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 06-19-2003, 09:16 AM   #3211
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The SSG one you saw was probably a Yokomo because I don't think any other companies use that type of graphite. Many people will say different things, I chose the Carpet Knife because of several main reasons, fist being that I was told many times that it was an excelent car and it has also won several big races to prove it self on a track, it uses an O-ring for a battary hold down system so that makes it much easier than tape, I also wanted to have fun when I got this car and I figured that tape might take away from some of the fun , I also like the adjustable servo mounts, some people say that the servo mounts arn't any good and can move around in a hard hit, but I'd rather have my servo move around once or twice than screw up 3 chassis's trying to get the holes properly drilled. Just my .02
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Old 06-19-2003, 12:12 PM   #3212
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Good cars: Corally SP12m, AE 12L3, Trinity Switchblade, CRC Six-Pack, CRC CarpetKnife, SPEEDMERCHANT REV.3. I listed them from worst to best, as I rate them.

I personally don't like T-bar cars because of the T-Bar and the inconvenience of taping in batteries. I prefer the Rev.3 over the CarpetKnife for several reasons, adjustable battery position, slightly longer wheelbase, different rear suspension geometry, and the best personal support from ANY manufacturer.
Team CRC, PowerPush, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, TxDSkingraphix, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
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Old 06-19-2003, 11:46 PM   #3213
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i dunno but i seem to like the yokomo one the best. then it'll be either the trinity and then associate. is there a site for the SPEEDMERCHANT REV.3? i'll be doing some searching now
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Old 06-20-2003, 12:35 AM   #3214
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Old 06-20-2003, 08:47 AM   #3215
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thanks for the site. i think i'll be going towards the yokomo...but it all depends on the price, then i'll be leaning towards the something...not really sure yet.
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Old 06-20-2003, 08:50 AM   #3216
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The yokomo was made specifically for Masami to win the Worlds on the South African pavement track. The chassis is a longer wheelbase than most cars out there and has alot of flex to it (both were intenional design characteristics), as cool as the SSG is, it causes a great deal of glitching problems, and its rather expensive to replace (or to even find a replacement, however in your location the situation might be different).
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Old 06-20-2003, 09:12 AM   #3217
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what are the glitching problems?
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Old 06-20-2003, 09:20 AM   #3218
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I remember back in the day when I ran 1/10 pan cars with what they now call the "old skool" front end the steering blocks would wear out fast and create alot of slop in the steering. Are the blocks better nowadays, or is it something that needs to be replaced on a frequent basis???
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Old 06-20-2003, 10:30 AM   #3219
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what would be a car that is not so expensive and good lookin'?
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Old 06-20-2003, 10:32 AM   #3220
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Hmmmmmm, that seems kinda wierd , cuz on my old style front end on my carpet knife the steering blocks don't even rotate on anything. They are pretty clamped to the hinge pin with the E-clips and than the hinge pin rotates in the suspension arms. I don't see how the steering block would wear out. Mabey they've changed the old style front ends?
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Old 06-20-2003, 10:24 PM   #3221
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Associated 12 question: Historical help needed.

Here's a question for all you old school guys:

A friend gave me a bag of Associated parts. Most of the stuff is new, some still in the packages. I have nearly a complete car.

I downloaded all the info I could find on the Associated website. The car appears to be a 12L, maybe a 12LW or older. I thought it would be fun to build it up as a retro car.

The chassis is made of graphite and is almost identical in shape to my 12L3's. The material has an old style look to it and though you can see the weave in the fabric, the chassis has a matte-type finish to it.

The significant difference in shape is that it has no horns or spurs for body mounts on the front, like current designs. It is straight across just in front of the front suspension. It also has no holes for the servo horns. Needless to say, it has an old-school front end, with all plastic on the car being white in color.

It appears to pre-date any of the L or LW chassis's in the Associated parts list on the website.

My question is this:
Does anyone know what era. model or vintage this car/chassis could be? Thanks! Any info would be appreciated.

Last edited by Graphitedust; 06-20-2003 at 10:31 PM.
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Old 06-21-2003, 04:14 AM   #3222
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Sounds to me that you have the RC12I which is from 1984. I doubt that you would have the RC12. These were manufactured by Associated back in 1981. But if you have the RC12, you have a collectors item that I would suggest you do not destroy. Could be worth some $$$ to you if you hold on to it. Can you take a pic and post it here? My experience with Associated dates back to the very early 80's...LOL! I probably should not have said that. I'm showing my age.
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Old 06-21-2003, 05:57 AM   #3223
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If it's got a T-bar it's a 12L, more than likely an original 12L graphite kit. Should a have a section of wire that stetches from the back of the upper pod plate to a small white plastic tube on top of the damper post. On the wire there should be a spring or a section of fuel tubing. The T-bar should be L shaped. The body posts go on top of the 8/32 screws that mount the front suspension arms.
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Old 06-21-2003, 06:18 AM   #3224
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Default 1/12 paint job

i've just gotten started in this hobby. I posted a pic elsewhere on this site a few months ago a pic of my 1/12 daewoo matiz. i bought it because i wanted a model of my car. well i like to put some work in my models so i got a bit bored of the hatchback. so here's my new body for that chassis. its from the maker of the same car (academy). only their plastic kits seem to be available in australia. i by mine from NZ. in europe they are available from germany i think. so without further ado here it is!!
by the way, couldnt be bothered getting my airbrush set up. the effect you see on the body is from a $1.50 toothbrush!! the rest is hand-painted in tamiya acrylic. you dont HAVE to spend heaps of money on a nice paint-job
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Old 06-21-2003, 06:51 AM   #3225
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where i race, i'm the only one who drives a 1/12. so of course im racing against 1/10 tourers. today i was shunted in the rear (well the car was anyway) and busted the t-bar. i've ordered a fibreglass one to replace it but i wonder if that is enough. i'm going to put a small square of foam (not too big or will look goofy) on the back lower brace to reduce the impact. i'm wondering if anyone else out there is dodging 1/10's and if they have any suggestions on how to survive them? short of not running with them of course...
i also have a couple more pics of my car in the custom paint job section if you're interested...
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