R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-22-2009, 09:53 PM   #32206
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by P2 View Post
OD...what do you have up ur sleeve?? or are you too busy with Top
Very busy with TOP But I read here on the forum that there was an OD12 prototype at the IIC

I'm just sayin'
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2009, 09:55 PM   #32207
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
Very busy with TOP But I read here on the forum that there was an OD12 prototype at the IIC

I'm just sayin'
Yeah...funny I didn't see it when we talked
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2009, 11:13 PM   #32208
Tech Master
 
Rdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maple Valley, WA
Posts: 1,620
Trader Rating: 83 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rdog View Post
Ok guys I want to go with the rx pack for my car was wondering where and whats the best one the get. Any info would be great
So i take that as a no on the rx pack?
Rdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2009, 11:22 PM   #32209
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Yeah...funny I didn't see it when we talked
You didn't ask
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2009, 07:55 AM   #32210
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 143
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Do any of you guys know if any one makes a front axle for the CRC GEN X that uses the 1/8 x 5/16 bearings? Thanks
BIGBOT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2009, 07:55 AM   #32211
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Mclean, VA
Posts: 3,940
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamBear View Post
Hi all,

Would anyone be able suggest a start out rollout for a 12L4 running a Tekin RS/10.5 combo 4 cell,the track I will be racing on is tarmac,outdoors at night.It has a long back straight(2 netball courts wide) and usually has a quite tight in-field area,I'm new to pan car racing and any help would be appreciated,cheers.
Start ~60mm. Have a feeling you will probably be gearing up from there since it's a low bite surface.
Apex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2009, 08:04 AM   #32212
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
One of the main reasons front tires "gum up" is from heating up due to excess scrubbing. Too much rear traction may cause you to use too much steering (dual rate) which will heat up the fronts and cause the tires to glaze over. Try to get the amount of steering you need with as little steering input at the front as possible, this usually means freeing up the rear with a harder compound or stiffer set up. This is critical in stock classes since scrubbing tires slow the car down in the corner.

In Vegas I ran Gray rears and Lilac fronts. That was plenty of front tire for me and the rear was still stuck
maybe i am misusing the term "gum up", (i mention this because others have described a 'gum up' and a grip increase).
what happens is the untreated part of the tire is getting a build up, which reduces the front grip.

Even a magenta tire gets this buildup on the untreated portion of the tire. this buildup will cause the front to lose traction thru the run. is this consistent with the overheating problem you mentioned?

i will try a further reduction in rear traction as you suggested, but i hoping to confirm we were describing the same situation.
avs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2009, 08:08 AM   #32213
Tech Elite
 
theisgroup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,191
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
maybe i am misusing the term "gum up", (i mention this because others have described a 'gum up' and a grip increase).
what happens is the untreated part of the tire is getting a build up, which reduces the front grip.

Even a magenta tire gets this buildup on the untreated portion of the tire. this buildup will cause the front to lose traction thru the run. is this consistent with the overheating problem you mentioned?

i will try a further reduction in rear traction as you suggested, but i hoping to confirm we were describing the same situation.
we call it glazing and we found that to be true at our track so, we just dope the entire front
__________________
yang lai

Team Tamale | Team Tekin | RCAmerica | Speedmerchant | Speedzone RC | EA Motorsports | Ko Propo USA | eXpress Motorsports | Parma/PSE
theisgroup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2009, 12:32 PM   #32214
Tech Adept
 
ds400's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 106
Default T bar screws

Hey guys , I new to 1/12th setup. I race on asphalt. Cant get the t bar screws right. Is there a way of setting them. I think mine are too tight or something, cant get the right setting. What happen if they are too tight?
How do they need to be set?
Please help
Thanks
ds400 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2009, 01:49 PM   #32215
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ds400 View Post
Hey guys , I new to 1/12th setup. I race on asphalt. Cant get the t bar screws right. Is there a way of setting them. I think mine are too tight or something, cant get the right setting. What happen if they are too tight?
How do they need to be set?
Please help
Thanks
Counting in my head, there are between 9 and 13 screws in a T bar assembly depending on manufacture and set up. Which screws are you talking about? Can you provide a little more info?
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2009, 01:51 PM   #32216
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,625
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ds400 View Post
Hey guys , I new to 1/12th setup. I race on asphalt. Cant get the t bar screws right. Is there a way of setting them. I think mine are too tight or something, cant get the right setting. What happen if they are too tight?
How do they need to be set?
Please help
Thanks
Go to http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/m_i...9bdc109f5296c3

Click on XII

Click on Download

Click on Setup Book and then go to page 14 "Setting Tweak"

Last edited by EVILGRAFX; 09-24-2009 at 04:48 PM.
EVILGRAFX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2009, 02:45 PM   #32217
Tech Master
 
timmay70's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,702
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ds400 View Post
Hey guys , I new to 1/12th setup. I race on asphalt. Cant get the t bar screws right. Is there a way of setting them. I think mine are too tight or something, cant get the right setting. What happen if they are too tight?
How do they need to be set?
Please help
Thanks
I believe that you are talking about the tweak screws? If that is the case, the last time I ran a t-plate car (early 90s), I would put the car flat on a table, ready to run. Next, lowered one screw until I saw the light gap disappear between the screw and chassis. Repeat for the other screw. There should be a slight gap. Next, turn each screw a little at a time until they actually touched.

The biggest problem was not pre-loading the t-plate, as it induced some horrible reactions, and possibly pre-maturely fatigued the fiberglass.

Back then I used a tweak station to set the cross weight (tweak). Now I see people using the coins on the front wheels. I still think the tweak station is still the best method.

It is still a tuning option. With the Rev.5L we are leaving the tweak springs backed off all the way unless we really need turn-in. I know of good drivers that will leave the screws backed out equally on a t-plate.
__________________
Speed Merchant Rev7, Tekin, TQ Racing (wire), Team Tamale
RC Excitement - Buy where you race, support your local tracks.
ROAR #105242
timmay70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2009, 07:00 PM   #32218
Tech Addict
 
Mugen10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 551
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to Mugen10 Send a message via Skype™ to Mugen10
Default

I have a Corally Sp12x on the way and have been looking for a carpet setup. Just wondering if anyone can help. The class is 13.5 with a 1 cell lipo. (saddle pack). On a very short and tight track.
Thanks alot
__________________
Central Kentucky Racing
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Xray T4
Mugen10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2009, 04:06 AM   #32219
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 241
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen10 View Post
I have a Corally Sp12x on the way and have been looking for a carpet setup. Just wondering if anyone can help. The class is 13.5 with a 1 cell lipo. (saddle pack). On a very short and tight track.
Thanks alot
Try the Corally Sp12x thread I just bumped. Page 27 gives a good setup for NiMh batteries- the car weighed about 820 grams. With some minor tweaking it should work well, if there are no updated lipo setups.

If you browse the thread there are a number of good tips on building the 12x also.
Larry Brown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2009, 06:57 AM   #32220
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,121
Trader Rating: 238 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
I believe the last time I saw it (Orange if I'm Correct) the RC Super Hero in Denver was using it!!!!
Look in the sky!

Is it a foul-mouthed gnome?

Is it a trash-talking troll?

Is it a flying hobbit with Tourettes?

IT'S THE RC SUPER HERO!!

Queue dramatic theme music. Probably something Salsa 'cause he dances so good...
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 4 (0 members and 4 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:23 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0