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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-21-2009, 03:31 PM   #32176
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Originally Posted by GasGod View Post
After MANY years away from 1/12-(runnin anything from 1/8 to touring)I have the itchDo you think a 12l3 can be somewhat competitive in 17.5 carpet?
I know the car is an antique but my skilz are too.
To be honest you'd be better off finding a 12r5 used, I've seen these go for as litle as $100-$150. You might be able to get a brushless motor in an l3 but as its a t-bar car it will not support 1s lipo which most tracks are going to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RossoTorro View Post
I'm looking for a 1/12 scale. Got a offer on a CORALLY SP12M, but how is it with 1s Lipo? Looks like the chassi won't hold a 1s.
Don't want to go back to nimh again.

Should i get another car or is there some modification that works to make 1s fit?
Is it possible to get parts for it still? Had a quick look on ebay and not much parts for it for sale.

It's either 1/12 or WGT... Not sure what to get.

All of the older corally cars are t-bar cars which are not totally lipo friendly, You can put the lipo on one side with the electronics on the other but most are having to add a siqnificant amount of weight to balance the car, which defeates the weight savings of the lipo. I wont say not to get that car but you'd be farther ahead to buy a car that supports 1s lipo better.
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Old 09-21-2009, 04:26 PM   #32177
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Hi guys, after years of running NiCad's, then onto NiMh's, I am now going to go over to LiPo for my 1/12h car. I have a Robitronic Overloader (probably the worst name for a charger ever!) which says it does LiPo but what settings should I use for 1c LiPo? I have heard of LiPo packs catching fire or blowing up, so what precautions should I take? A LiPo bag?? I have also heard of people saying that the pack needs to be warmed up whilst charging, or others saying that you should keep them cool, so what's the deal there?? Many thanks for your help guys, just want to be sure about how to handle these new to me cells! Cheers, Chris.
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Old 09-21-2009, 04:45 PM   #32178
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I would NOT recommend warming 1 cell LiPos. I thought I would try it when I was at Vegas. I left one of my SMC 4900's on the control unit of my Soldering iron to get it a little warm. I pulled it off and temped it at 128*F at it's hottest point and it had puffed a noticeable amount. It reduced a little after it cooled, and never separated the case, but its now raised a bit in the center . . .

Try it at your own risk . . .
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Old 09-21-2009, 04:51 PM   #32179
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I dont think you are supposed to heat any LiPo... just asking for trouble.
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Old 09-21-2009, 04:59 PM   #32180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H I View Post
I thought few people ran SMC4900 pack at ICC.
Did ICC used different rules to ROAR?
Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I believe ROAR's website has not been updated with the current batteries. I ran the SMC 4900 packs with the internal bullet connector at the IIC and they ran very well.
IIC typically allows different approvals than strictly following ROAR. They are able to do so re: potential safety matters because they do not rely on ROAR for their event insurance...Scotty insures elsewhere.

The way the ROAR rules read, "updated" or not, is that a product is not approved until it shows up on the list as-published. At this point the SMC battery is not on the list (at least not that I can find) and would not be allowable at a ROAR-sanctioned event. The IIC is NOT a ROAR-sanctioned event so "allowability" is at the discretion of the race organizers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
I have also heard of people saying that the pack needs to be warmed up whilst charging, or others saying that you should keep them cool, so what's the deal there??
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
I would NOT recommend warming 1 cell LiPos. I thought I would try it when I was at Vegas. I left one of my SMC 4900's on the control unit of my Soldering iron to get it a little warm. I pulled it off and temped it at 128*F at it's hottest point and it had puffed a noticeable amount. It reduced a little after it cooled, and never separated the case, but its now raised a bit in the center . . .

Try it at your own risk . . .
Again, relating to ROAR and LiPo battery heating, ROAR issued a bulletin that specifically bans heating LiPo battery packs and that the measured temp of the pack at pre-tech should be abient (room) temperature + or - 5 degrees. Of course, in typical ROAR fashion, they have failed to identify whether that is 5 degrees Farenheit or 5 degrees Celcius. They also mandate that no more than 1C charging rates are to be allowed. The simple fact is that a LiPo battery charged at 1C will not heat above room temperature...certainly not 5 degrees (even Farenheit) above.

See the full text at http://www.roarracing.com/downloads/..._addendums.pdf
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:05 PM   #32181
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi guys, after years of running NiCad's, then onto NiMh's, I am now going to go over to LiPo for my 1/12h car. I have a Robitronic Overloader (probably the worst name for a charger ever!) which says it does LiPo but what settings should I use for 1c LiPo? I have heard of LiPo packs catching fire or blowing up, so what precautions should I take? A LiPo bag?? I have also heard of people saying that the pack needs to be warmed up whilst charging, or others saying that you should keep them cool, so what's the deal there?? Many thanks for your help guys, just want to be sure about how to handle these new to me cells! Cheers, Chris.
Allways follow the battery mfg's directions for charging. A lipo sack is a good saftey precaution and is required at many events for ins reasons. The idea of heating a lipo is thought to produce more punch, as is true with charging at higher than 1c. And while this may be true the potential for damage to the lipo and fire or puffing is much higher. the safe course of action is to use a lipo sack, charge at 1c, and do not intoduce any external heat before, durring, or after charging.
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Old 09-21-2009, 10:51 PM   #32182
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Ok guys I want to go with the rx pack for my car was wondering where and whats the best one the get. Any info would be great
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Old 09-22-2009, 12:16 AM   #32183
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IIC typically allows different approvals than strictly following ROAR. They are able to do so re: potential safety matters because they do not rely on ROAR for their event insurance...Scotty insures elsewhere.

The way the ROAR rules read, "updated" or not, is that a product is not approved until it shows up on the list as-published. At this point the SMC battery is not on the list (at least not that I can find) and would not be allowable at a ROAR-sanctioned event. The IIC is NOT a ROAR-sanctioned event so "allowability" is at the discretion of the race organizers.
True IIC is not a ROAR race but they do mostly follow ROAR rules as a guide line. When I asked initially what batteries would be approved I was initially told ROAR approved batteries, I believe at the time only the 4000Mah SMC battery was the only 1 cell LiPo showing as legal on ROAR's website, yet most of the new batteries available are allready showing ROAR Approved stickers on them and is listed in their advertising as ROAR Approved.
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:16 AM   #32184
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I hear the new 1 cell saddle packs that are out (corally). It is not a issue with lipo batteries. The only issue is some rear pods will not hold a brushless motor. Which most companies offer a brushless pod.
Has anyone tried the lipo saddle pack yet?
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:30 AM   #32185
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
True IIC is not a ROAR race but they do mostly follow ROAR rules as a guide line. When I asked initially what batteries would be approved I was initially told ROAR approved batteries, I believe at the time only the 4000Mah SMC battery was the only 1 cell LiPo showing as legal on ROAR's website, yet most of the new batteries available are allready showing ROAR Approved stickers on them and is listed in their advertising as ROAR Approved.
I direct your attention to rule 8.3.1.1 "The approval of new battery types, makes or capacities must be posted on the www.roarracing.com website." Good intentions (well, we're GOING to be approved), or flat dishonesty (screw 'em, we'll slap a sticker on and call it good) aren't approvals...showing up on the approval list is approval. Period.

The reason I mentioned it at all is that, at least as far as potential safety issues, you cannot follow "mostly" ROAR rules if you want to be protected by their insurance. My caution was that folks not just "jump" and buy batteries. We're just now heading into our own racing season which is set to start in two weeks and are trying to make sure everybody understands that if their battery is not on ROAR's list they will not be allowed to run it in our races. Any club relying on the ROAR insurance is foolish to do otherwise--they accept a level of POTENTIAL liability that is almost without measure. As mentioned before...none of us has the money to re-build the facility where we race should there be a problem. Easy solution? Follow the ROAR approvals on batteries to the letter. Problem solved.
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Old 09-22-2009, 12:03 PM   #32186
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I hear the new 1 cell saddle packs that are out (corally). It is not a issue with lipo batteries. The only issue is some rear pods will not hold a brushless motor. Which most companies offer a brushless pod.
Has anyone tried the lipo saddle pack yet?
Not sure what your getting at here; the only saddle pack that I see on the corally site is a 2s. Which even if it was legal to run most are too big to fit. The only company I've heard of thats working on a 1s saddle pack is Speedzone but there is no recent news about when it will be released that I heard.
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Old 09-22-2009, 12:16 PM   #32187
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Just saw Xray prototyped a 1:12 link car at the IIC. Looks like the t-bar design is going extinct. Makes it seem pointless to produce a 1S saddle pack if there will eventually be no market for it.
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Old 09-22-2009, 12:21 PM   #32188
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Just saw Xray prototyped a 1:12 link car at the IIC. Looks like the t-bar design is going extinct. Makes it seem pointless to produce a 1S saddle pack if there will eventually be no market for it.
Mabey but there are still alot of 1/12 guys that perfer a t-bar car over the link style, myself included. Now if speedzone or someone else decides to put a saddle pack into production is yet to be seen.
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Old 09-22-2009, 12:29 PM   #32189
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Just saw Xray prototyped a 1:12 link car at the IIC. Looks like the t-bar design is going extinct. Makes it seem pointless to produce a 1S saddle pack if there will eventually be no market for it.
Just curious as to why even post this comment. There are still tons of tbar cars out there. If a company can design a saddle lipo that has the same specs and becomes legal, what does it hurt. Why discourage it in the slightest. Having a choice is good, and I also perfer a tbar car. BTW, I am currently trying another link car but when the saddle lipo comes out then we have an option.

Steve

Thanks, for the link in the other thread Chris, I could not find that anywhere,
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Old 09-22-2009, 12:31 PM   #32190
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Mabey but there are still alot of 1/12 guys that perfer a t-bar car over the link style, myself included. Now if speedzone or someone else decides to put a saddle pack into production is yet to be seen.
I've always preferred t-bar cars over link cars too, but will race a link car this winter.

What kind of changes have you made to your t-bar car to accommodate the current 1S stick lipo?
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