R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-17-2009, 04:25 PM   #32131
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
At the IIC I was running dbl. pink fronts and yellow rears and liked that combo. Several other drivers were running lilac fronts and yellow rears. This was for the 13.5 and 17.5 class. In mod the tire setup was completely different.
Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
what traction compound? if with jack the gripper, how did you control the front grip?
for me, if i don't sauce the majority of the tire, it gums up after 4 minutes and then it pushes worse and worse. if i sauce the majority of the front then i can't control it for the first 3-4 minutes but it finishes strong.

is there is a secret middle ground?
come on there Gadget! spill the beans on traction mgmt!
avs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2009, 05:36 PM   #32132
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Sorry must of missed that...ok here's what I did...but consider I was in the D main But I believe that had more to do with the driver then the car.

Tires were cut down to 1.7" in the rear and 1.6" in the front with the full sidewall CA'd to prevent traction rolling. In the rear I ran with Jack across the full back. In the front I only put Jack on about the inside 1/4th of the tire. I kept having problems where the Jack would wick across the tire too much if I did any more then 1/4th of the tire. At 1/4 of the tire it would wick to about 1/3rd the tire to just under half. I might have been better off with Lilac fronts so I could use more Jack and not worry about having too much. But I had already set the car up and figured out the tire so I didn't want to take the chance of messing things up.

Your problem with gumming up might just be the difference in the carpets used. IIC had brand new CRC carpet so it didn't seem to gum up too much. I've seen other carpets gum up so it could be a brand thing or could be how much compound is already in the carpet.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2009, 08:34 PM   #32133
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

One of the main reasons front tires "gum up" is from heating up due to excess scrubbing. Too much rear traction may cause you to use too much steering (dual rate) which will heat up the fronts and cause the tires to glaze over. Try to get the amount of steering you need with as little steering input at the front as possible, this usually means freeing up the rear with a harder compound or stiffer set up. This is critical in stock classes since scrubbing tires slow the car down in the corner.

In Vegas I ran Gray rears and Lilac fronts. That was plenty of front tire for me and the rear was still stuck
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2009, 08:39 AM   #32134
Tech Addict
 
radio_car_racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 543
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

suggest a rollout for a 10.5 GM Pro-Stock please using nimh batteries and Orion Vortex Race Spec esc
radio_car_racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2009, 09:31 AM   #32135
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Sorry must of missed that...ok here's what I did...but consider I was in the D main But I believe that had more to do with the driver then the car.

Tires were cut down to 1.7" in the rear and 1.6" in the front with the full sidewall CA'd to prevent traction rolling. In the rear I ran with Jack across the full back. In the front I only put Jack on about the inside 1/4th of the tire. I kept having problems where the Jack would wick across the tire too much if I did any more then 1/4th of the tire. At 1/4 of the tire it would wick to about 1/3rd the tire to just under half. I might have been better off with Lilac fronts so I could use more Jack and not worry about having too much. But I had already set the car up and figured out the tire so I didn't want to take the chance of messing things up.

Your problem with gumming up might just be the difference in the carpets used. IIC had brand new CRC carpet so it didn't seem to gum up too much. I've seen other carpets gum up so it could be a brand thing or could be how much compound is already in the carpet.
Thanks for the info. i think you are right about the carpet being different. if i don't fully coat the front tire (from black to magenta) the uncoated part gums up.
avs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2009, 09:36 AM   #32136
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
One of the main reasons front tires "gum up" is from heating up due to excess scrubbing. Too much rear traction may cause you to use too much steering (dual rate) which will heat up the fronts and cause the tires to glaze over. Try to get the amount of steering you need with as little steering input at the front as possible, this usually means freeing up the rear with a harder compound or stiffer set up. This is critical in stock classes since scrubbing tires slow the car down in the corner.

In Vegas I ran Gray rears and Lilac fronts. That was plenty of front tire for me and the rear was still stuck
thanks, losing speed in the corners is why i have been trying to use a softer front with less dual rate. i have been using black/yellow, i will try grey. if i stiffen the rear then it diffs out.
avs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2009, 06:57 PM   #32137
Tech Master
 
BLKNOTCH's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ajax, Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,024
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to BLKNOTCH
Default

This is INSANE, I am just looking for info for the CRC Gen X as I will be running in a winter 1/12 series here in Montreal. I normally run 1/10 Nitro Sedan and the forums there allow for multiple posts both about the cars in question and any other questions one might have. As it is I will be running a CRC Gen X with a Lipo and Brushless set up, I do not have the brushless system yet and am wondering what you all might recommend (13.5)

Thanks
Sean
__________________
HB/HPI Racing | Morgan Fuels | HOBBYWING | Airtronics | REDS Racing | HRP | Hobby Revolution | Team N.E.R.D.
BLKNOTCH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2009, 07:12 PM   #32138
Tech Regular
 
Lost Aggresiva's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Caledonia, MI
Posts: 255
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BLKNOTCH View Post
This is INSANE, I am just looking for info for the CRC Gen X as I will be running in a winter 1/12 series here in Montreal. I normally run 1/10 Nitro Sedan and the forums there allow for multiple posts both about the cars in question and any other questions one might have. As it is I will be running a CRC Gen X with a Lipo and Brushless set up, I do not have the brushless system yet and am wondering what you all might recommend (13.5)

Thanks
Sean
I'd look into the Gen XL if you're wanting a CRC. It's their new car designed for LiPo and brushless motors.

Bill.
Lost Aggresiva is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2009, 07:13 PM   #32139
Tech Addict
 
myrxseven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Shakopee, MN
Posts: 664
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Aggresiva View Post
I'd look into the Gen XL if you're wanting a CRC. It's their new car designed for LiPo and brushless motors.

Bill.
+1

I had a Gen X, and converted it to the Gen XL and it is a phenominal car.
myrxseven is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2009, 07:21 PM   #32140
Tech Master
 
BLKNOTCH's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ajax, Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,024
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to BLKNOTCH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Aggresiva View Post
I'd look into the Gen XL if you're wanting a CRC. It's their new car designed for LiPo and brushless motors.

Bill.
Sorry I should have stated I do have the Brushless Pod for the Gen X so I am just wondering which System to go with?? I am leaning towards the Novak system but also have no idea for gearing and whatever I might need to look into.

Thanks
Sean
__________________
HB/HPI Racing | Morgan Fuels | HOBBYWING | Airtronics | REDS Racing | HRP | Hobby Revolution | Team N.E.R.D.
BLKNOTCH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2009, 07:31 PM   #32141
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,636
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BLKNOTCH View Post
Sorry I should have stated I do have the Brushless Pod for the Gen X so I am just wondering which System to go with?? I am leaning towards the Novak system but also have no idea for gearing and whatever I might need to look into.

Thanks
Sean
Novak= simple, reliable, nice price and SLOW.

Tekin RS if you want speed and have a laptop.

LRP if you don't.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2009, 07:34 PM   #32142
Tech Master
 
BLKNOTCH's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ajax, Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,024
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to BLKNOTCH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Novak= simple, reliable, nice price and SLOW.

Tekin RS if you want speed and have a laptop.

LRP if you don't.
Good to know, now what about the new offering from KO Propo? and if I am to go with these other companies what motor would be best suited to them?
__________________
HB/HPI Racing | Morgan Fuels | HOBBYWING | Airtronics | REDS Racing | HRP | Hobby Revolution | Team N.E.R.D.
BLKNOTCH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2009, 07:52 PM   #32143
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,270
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Stay away from Novak. They don't have timing advance and you will be behind the curve. The new Advanced electronics speedo being imported by CRC sometime in November cleaned up at the IIC but little is known about the ESC other then it hauls butt.

Current speedo's out there now.

Tekin is the most adjustable
LRP easiest to use (out of advance timing speedo's)
KO BMC is supposed to be a good one as well but you need a computer and the stock manager software to unlock it's potential.

There are a lot of good motors out there.

I recommend Losi motor! Nice easy solder tabs and they have been super reliable for me.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | Venom | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 3.0, TLR 22SCT 2.0, TLR 22-4 2.0, TLR Ten-SCTE 3.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2009, 08:03 PM   #32144
Tech Master
 
BLKNOTCH's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ajax, Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,024
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to BLKNOTCH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Stay away from Novak. They don't have timing advance and you will be behind the curve. The new Advanced electronics speedo being imported by CRC sometime in November cleaned up at the IIC but little is known about the ESC other then it hauls butt.

Current speedo's out there now.

Tekin is the most adjustable
LRP easiest to use (out of advance timing speedo's)
KO BMC is supposed to be a good one as well but you need a computer and the stock manager software to unlock it's potential.

There are a lot of good motors out there.

I recommend Losi motor! Nice easy solder tabs and they have been super reliable for me.
Thank you for this great info, I will look more into this Losi motor you speak of. What about the listed motors from Tekin or LRP? I may go with the LRP speedo if you guy's are all saying they are a great starting speedo, I havent ran 1/12 for a few years now but I am a strong racer in 1/10 Nitro sedan and have raced 1/10 Electric recently with my T2-007 with the QC2 brushed speedo and loved it.
__________________
HB/HPI Racing | Morgan Fuels | HOBBYWING | Airtronics | REDS Racing | HRP | Hobby Revolution | Team N.E.R.D.
BLKNOTCH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2009, 08:10 PM   #32145
Tech Regular
 
Lost Aggresiva's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Caledonia, MI
Posts: 255
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Stay away from Novak. They don't have timing advance and you will be behind the curve. The new Advanced electronics speedo being imported by CRC sometime in November cleaned up at the IIC but little is known about the ESC other then it hauls butt.
+1 on the boost. Instead of spending time tuning motors, it's all about tuning speed controls now. I'm curious about the CRC speedo too. I think it's called the Orca or something like that. Heard a lot of positive things about it. Other than it's incredibly hard to come by at the moment.

Bill.
Lost Aggresiva is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:19 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0