R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-17-2003, 11:34 PM   #3196
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: seattle, WA
Posts: 864
Default

My servo has a black connector. I have an Airtronics servo in my TC3 and it must of used to have an old style Airtronics connector on it because now it has a JR connector on it. I'll see if there is anything that would work at my track tomorrow. You say that Novak makes some? I know there is a lot of little Novak connectors with assorted wires and thing in one of the display cases at my track, mabey if I'm lucky there will be the correct piece I need in that jumble of stuff . But than again mabey there won't .
racerdx6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2003, 05:48 AM   #3197
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

racerdx- you will be fine, infact you could probably even use your current connector. just re-arrange the wires to make sure they are in the correct order, and then trim the plug to allow it to fit into the receiver. its not a big deal. or you can see if you can find another plug, either way it shouldnt take you more than 10 minutes to do.
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2003, 07:19 AM   #3198
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 864
Default

Stormperson - I either don't understand your recommendation or don't agree with it. The old black Airtronics connector has 3 keying tabs on one side. It doesn't fit the new receiver connection locations. The best thing is to find the JR connector and re-pin into it with the new polarity. The old Airtronics connector had the red on the outside and the black in the center. That polarity is reversed on the new Z connecting system. That makes the Z system the same polartity as Futaba.
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2003, 09:51 AM   #3199
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 775
Default

RacerDX6: DavidL is giving you the straight scoop! You Dont need the entire harness: wire, terminals, and plastic plug!
You only need to do the following:

Get a JR plug.

Take off the old black airtronics plug by unlocking each terminal at the end of each wire and slipping it out of the airtronics plug.

Slip each terminal into the JR plug, in the new "Z" connection order.

Stormperson is also correct.....you could use the existing airtronics plug but change the wires to the "Z" order.

Either way will work, and I recommend you mark this plug as being in the new order. Maybe put a tag on it that says "Z". That way, a year from now, you don't try to plug it into an old-style/old order receiver.
Graphitedust is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2003, 12:22 PM   #3200
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

I just got my wisdom teeth out so i am all drugged out (so if i dont make sense, thats probably why, lol).

Basically i am just saying that you can re-wire the black plug so it is the correct orentiation and then i think the old black plugs were square, however the new Z ones have angled corners, so you just take an xacto or razor blade to shave it so it fits, or you could just buy a JR connector. whatever you do, make sure the wires are hooking up properly and there is a good connection.

BTW...

I noticed that the Ascari body just got approved (although they have been shipping out the approved body for at least 2 months now, since the ascari body that i got in April has the correct part # on it), however i know not too many people have had expeariance with em, but for the people who have, what is your opinion? I am painting up a few for the asphault nats next week as well as some parma speed 8's...
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2003, 01:25 PM   #3201
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: seattle, WA
Posts: 864
Default

I'm going to get the Ascari body for my 1/12. Anything that I told you wouldn't really help you though because it will be the first body I've ever had on my Carpet Knife. I also like the over spray film it has, than I can be as messy on the outside as I want . Thanks for all the help with the connector. I'll let you know what I find at my track. Could someone tell me what order the wires on the Z plug should go in? Right now when I look at the plug with the wires coming out of the top and I'm looking at the side with the little ridges on it. Blue (signal) is on the far right, black (battary negative) is in the middle, and red (battary positive) is on the far left. What would the new orientation be? I could also just go and check out the plug on my touring car, man I'm slow .
racerdx6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2003, 02:26 PM   #3202
Tech Master
 
EricF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,516
Default

The order of the wires are:

neg., pos., signal
black, red, blue or white

the black wire is always to the outside of the receiver.

------------------------

b r s (ch.2)
b r s (ch.1)

br (bec/batt)


------------------------
EricF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2003, 03:04 PM   #3203
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Newville,Pa
Posts: 2,152
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
swipe that connector off of the ld speedo.... make sure you put the wires in correctly....

Here's the info to make it correct....

http://www.airtronics.net/picture_shows_the_pin.htm

Aitronics= =Futaba
Blue = signal= White
Red = + = Red
Black= - = Black
Just figured I would make sure it got posted agian!!! 3 times just aren't enough!!
__________________
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

Pitman for Team Dallas Austin...
IMPACTPLAYR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2003, 06:50 AM   #3204
Tech Fanatic
 
davioh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: hong kong
Posts: 778
Default

hey...what are good sites with good pics and good info for the different brands of 1/12 cars? 4 cells and 6 cells
davioh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2003, 06:53 AM   #3205
Tech Fanatic
 
davioh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: hong kong
Posts: 778
Default

on road/touring cars please
davioh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2003, 08:00 AM   #3206
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: seattle, WA
Posts: 864
Default

Hey, I just got a cool idea for a new class. A 1/12 scale four wheel drive touring car class . And run 6 cells with foam tires. That would be fun, like a miniture touring car class.
I went to my track yesterday and a guy there named Andrew Cartwright was able to get the right plug on my servo so it works with my Futaba reciever now . I also found a used Cyclone for 50 dollars from someone at my track. So that will save me a bunch of money, it may not be as good as a GT7, but hey for 50 bucks I'm not gonna argue . And it is in good condition.

As for sites about 1/12 scale cars, I don't know about a site that has information about many different 1/12 scale cars from different companies. But for CRC cars check out www.teamcrc.com , and check out www.speedmerchent.com for speedmerchent cars, go to www.rc10.com for associated cars, for Team Corally cars go to www.corally.com , and for trinity cars go to www.trinity.com .
racerdx6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2003, 09:32 AM   #3207
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

I have met andrew a few times, he is a really nice guy. he drives for schumacher and actually did really well in the A main of mod 12th at the carpet nats driving a trinity (?).
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2003, 09:41 AM   #3208
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: seattle, WA
Posts: 864
Default

Yeah he's a really nice guy, and excellent driver too. I'm not sure if he drove a Trinity at the carpet nats, but I think he drives a hyperdrive now. Does anyone have any idea on where to get information on the hyperdrive. I'm sure I could just ask him but I won't be able to make it to my track until the saturday after this one . He did very well down at the Reedy race too, TQ and 2nd place in touring open mod.
racerdx6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2003, 09:44 AM   #3209
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: seattle, WA
Posts: 864
Default old style front end durability?

Has anyone had any trouble with the old style front end braking? It looks like it might be kind fragile in a way, but I'm not sure how it will hold up. Also, would it work if I needed to in a pinch to use a left old school front end suspension arm on the right side? The only thing that would be different was the king pin position would be moved back a slight bit.
racerdx6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2003, 09:51 AM   #3210
Tech Fanatic
 
davioh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: hong kong
Posts: 778
Default

what is the best kit to get? and i saw an SSG one..i was wondering what brand it is
davioh is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:17 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0