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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-09-2009, 06:10 PM   #32056
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can someone please help me with something...

What is everyone using to accurately measure camber and toe? i have an RC12R5. can you use a setup station like the 1/10 tourers on the front or something else? i've seen camber gauges but what about toe?

any help would be great
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:13 PM   #32057
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What is everyone using to accurately measure camber and toe? i have an RC12R5. can you use a setup station like the 1/10 tourers on the front or something else? i've seen camber gauges but what about toe?
The Niftech alignment gauge is PERFECT for 1/12. A bit "fiddly" the first couple times you use it, but becomes second nature in a hurry. I use it for toe only and use an RPM camber gauge for camber (faster for me).

Best $25 I've ever spent.
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:24 PM   #32058
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Originally Posted by HaraR40 View Post
can someone please help me with something...

What is everyone using to accurately measure camber and toe? i have an RC12R5. can you use a setup station like the 1/10 tourers on the front or something else? i've seen camber gauges but what about toe?

any help would be great
I use a RPM camber gauge and my eyeballs. Not extremely accurate but, it works for me.

I had the Niftech setup but, it just seemed like a lot of fiddling to get the same thing.
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:09 AM   #32059
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I use a RPM camber gauge and my eyeballs. Not extremely accurate but, it works for me.
Same here. For toe the side to side precision is not THAT important, so what I usually do is measure the steering links to be the same lenght , then finetune the angle I want "on eye" and the last thing is to make sure that it's ok by trimming the car through the transmitter, it's not good to make major adjustments with the transmitter trim though, then you have to start again. If I need to record my toe for a setup-sheet or whatever then I just take a caliper and measure front to rear difference and that's what I put in my setup sheet in milimeters.
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Old 09-10-2009, 02:26 AM   #32060
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I use a RPM camber gauge and my eyeballs. Not extremely accurate but, it works for me.
Same here too, and just about everyone else I know.

A lot of people come across from other classes and expect to have to use similar complex setup kit to the ones they've been using before but it's just not necessary. My entire setup kit comprises two coins, allen drivers, RPM camber gauge, digital calipers, Hudy fine stepped ride height gauge. That's it.

Trev
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Old 09-10-2009, 03:19 AM   #32061
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cool,
yeah i guess i am just used to the setup station. I'll just grab an RPM camber gauge then. might get an integy tire width measure thing since i broke my caliper and they cost about the same.


oh, and can you really use sunscreen as traction additive. No-one near me sells any and i have been using my 12R5. it just spins out way to easy no matter how slow i take off.
is paragon the way to go? i am going to order a tin from towerhobbies. does it last a while if i just get one tin?


thanks heaps for your help.
Alex
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Old 09-10-2009, 05:23 AM   #32062
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BODYSHELL

what's this one?

Quote:
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I forget what it is called but that is made by a guy in his own house not a big name company mass produced body. You can find them on ebay when he does runs of them. Pretty nice body, I have one. Though I would prefer a different wing mounting.
bit if research and his ebay user id is rackartbydon

we need to pm him via ebay so he does another run of these
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Old 09-10-2009, 05:49 AM   #32063
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Here is a tip for eyeballing toe. View it from the bottom. In other words, hold the car up in front of your face with the bottom of the chassis facing you. I do this because sometimes camber can make it look like there is toe in at the front when it's really 0 or toe out. Of course, this usually isn't a problem if you don't run much camber.
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Old 09-10-2009, 10:58 AM   #32064
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Hey guys, sorry if this has been covered in the thread but I'm returning to 1/12th scale after 8+ years. My question is what are the current top picks for ESC's to run on 1 cell. I'm starting to shop for gear to run this winter.

Thanks for any input.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:16 AM   #32065
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Tekin RS
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:10 PM   #32066
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LRP SPX stock spec
KO BMC with stock manager softwear
Tekin RS

These are the top stock onroad speedo's out right now due to there ability to have dynamic motor timing.
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:32 PM   #32067
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Thanks guys, is that the RS or RS pro?
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:40 PM   #32068
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The only difference I know of between the RS and RS pro is the pro has lower on resistance which is always a good thing. I cannot see any other real differences. Maybe someone that knows more about them can comment.
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:14 PM   #32069
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The only difference I know of between the RS and RS pro is the pro has lower on resistance which is always a good thing. I cannot see any other real differences. Maybe someone that knows more about them can comment.
Thats about right... there is no motor limit ont he RS Pro, and the Pro comes at a weight and size penalty for that extra head room and the lower 'on' resistance. For most 1/12th's the RS Pro isnt needed.
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Old 09-10-2009, 08:50 PM   #32070
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Originally Posted by HaraR40 View Post
can someone please help me with something...

What is everyone using to accurately measure camber and toe? i have an RC12R5. can you use a setup station like the 1/10 tourers on the front or something else? i've seen camber gauges but what about toe?

any help would be great
I use 1mm graph paper(free see link) to line up the car to see if the toe matches from side to side can't tell the exact measurement but it lets see if the toe matches up. I just tape it to my pit board.

http://graph-paper-printer.en.softonic.com/

I also have some 1/8" ID x 12" $2-3 tubing from the local hobby shop to place over the front axles to help line up the front end for toe and camber. It lets you see things better than just eyeballing the front end with the wheels on or just the short axles.
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