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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-07-2009, 03:56 PM   #32026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX View Post
I've used both methods, using front and rear, to set tweak and have been just as successful with both ways.

I actually prefer to set tweak with the rear tires on the balance/swivel side.

This argument has come up in this thread before.

There's more than one way to skin a cat.
Agreed, as a solid axle pan car has a single pivot it shouldn't matter which way round the car actually is. That said, I find a pair of coins on the front wheels and an allen driver to lift the front end pretty effective. Or if you are someone like Andy Griffiths or other top UK or US drivers etc., two hands and a pair of eyes can set tweak in 30 seconds. That still amazes me!

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Old 09-07-2009, 03:58 PM   #32027
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Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
Or if you are someone like Andy Griffiths or other top UK or US drivers etc., two hands and a pair of eyes can set tweak in 30 seconds. That still amazes me!
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Ha, I have them beat. I can do it with one hand in 25 seconds
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Old 09-07-2009, 06:33 PM   #32028
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Ha, I have them beat. I can do it with one hand in 25 seconds
Massami can do it with his left foot while winning a heat in another class. Blindfolded no less.

I agree that it PROBABLY doesn't matter which end. I WOULD say, however, that to do it at the rear requires your rear pod to be PERFECTLY balanced side-to-side, and that balance will change depending on motor used, etc.

In fact, now I'm curious. There is FAR more wire (winds) in a motor now with brushless than there ever was in a brushed motor since those winds now fill the can and the magnet spins. How much weight difference is there between, say, a 17.5 and a 10.5?. Whatever difference would be CLOSE to being centered, but I can't believe it would be exactly, at least not to within the gram or so I tweak the front of my car to prior to heats.

When I build my cars I don't even weigh the rear pod for balance--as far as I'm concerned the tires contact patches are immoveable relative to each other, as long as things are pretty close (to keep tire wear even-ish) then it's close enough. So for me

I always do the front wheels which is how I learned.

I saw Mike Blackstock set tweak on his car--two coins on the front tires. If it's good enough for Mikey...

I HATED the Hudy tweak stand that came in the "All-in-One" set. Tried it a couple times, wasn't for me. That said, I'm sure there are folks who can make 'em sing...just nobody I've ever met.

I actually use four small scales to set balance or tweak my cars. On the 1/12 car I don't even turn the scales under the rear tires on.
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Old 09-07-2009, 07:25 PM   #32029
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Massami can do it with his left foot while winning a heat in another class. Blindfolded no less.
Yeah but he's Masami, superheroes don't count
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Old 09-07-2009, 07:29 PM   #32030
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Yeah but he's Masami, superheroes don't count
I'll give you that. Keep in mind he's winning that other class using a stick tranmitter he's manipulating with his eyelids. And eating lunch.

I guess I didn't understand the rules to the contest
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Old 09-07-2009, 08:20 PM   #32031
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By far the two coin method is the fastest way to insure the front is balanced.
I agree that the rear is what it is and no need to check it for balance.
I have used both the tweak station and the coins to great satisfaction.
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Old 09-07-2009, 08:59 PM   #32032
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Here's a question for you regarding setting the tweak, do you guys set the tweak using 'used' tyres? Normally the larger sized tyre goes on the outside, so do you set the tweak then, or when the tyres are trued to be the same size? The only reason I ask is that it seems to me that if the tyres are diferant sizes, and you set the tweak using them, then, as soon as you run your car, the setting will go out as the outside tyre wears more than the inside. I have a set of CRC high roller rims with a O-ring superglued to each, and use them to set the tweak. Then, I put the wheels/tyres on that I am giong to use. Does anyone else do this?
Then your tweak will be off as soon as you put your race tires on, unless you've just trued them to the same size. I always check tweak before each race, with the tires that I'm going to run on the car.
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:18 PM   #32033
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And that is exactly what baffles me regarding setting the tweak! If you set the tweak with tyres that are differant sizes (larger on the outside), as soon as the car starts to go around the track, that tweak setting will go out, as the outside tyre starts to wear. With using the 'setup wheels' I discribed earlier, yep, the setting will be off to start off with, but as the outside tyres wear, you'll end up with a 'sweetspot' where everything is spot on. Then, of course, as the outside tyre carries on wearing, the setting will go out. My question is, overall, do you get a better running car with a 'swetspot', or is it generally better to go with a tweak setting that will be out after a few laps?? It used to be much easier back in the day when Corally cars had a free floating rear end, no tweaking needed!! Cheers guys, Chris.
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:59 PM   #32034
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
And that is exactly what baffles me regarding setting the tweak! If you set the tweak with tyres that are differant sizes (larger on the outside), as soon as the car starts to go around the track, that tweak setting will go out, as the outside tyre starts to wear. With using the 'setup wheels' I discribed earlier, yep, the setting will be off to start off with, but as the outside tyres wear, you'll end up with a 'sweetspot' where everything is spot on. Then, of course, as the outside tyre carries on wearing, the setting will go out. My question is, overall, do you get a better running car with a 'swetspot', or is it generally better to go with a tweak setting that will be out after a few laps?? It used to be much easier back in the day when Corally cars had a free floating rear end, no tweaking needed!! Cheers guys, Chris.
Just about any car is going to be out of tweak after the run as most of us will hit(or be hit) something during the run. So I'd rather start with a solid setup rather than try to drive into a good setup. But one thing puzzles me, for the most part I dont see a huge difference between the two tires after a run, are you running oval or does your track have more of one direction turns? Which side do you refer to as the outside, the drive side like an oval car?
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:02 PM   #32035
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wingman2-
I think setting tweak for the 'sweetspot' will depend on how many laps you can put in at the 'SP'. personally I don't remember the last time I actually put my car on a tweak station. I just make sure my tires are the same size and that nothing has come loose on the chassis to make it out of balance and just go racing. Maybe I'm not good enough to notice. I'll have to check my lap times. I don't think the times change much if at all.
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:07 PM   #32036
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
And that is exactly what baffles me regarding setting the tweak!
Maybe putting things into proper perspective would help.

I rotate my tires side-to-side during the race day and find that this does a very good job keeping my tires reasonably even. RARELY do I find the tires to be even .25mm off from each other after a heat where they started even, but let's pretend I did.

.25mm is roughly equal to 1 hundredth of an inch. That's damn small. NOW, divide by two because that's how much a .25 diameter change affects relative height of a corner. So now we're talking about .125mm or 5 thousandths of an inch. That's REALLY damn small. Can that difference be measured in tweak? I'd offer that it's unlikely with any but the absolutely most sensitive methods (which I'd argue my scales to be) and maybe not even then.

Our ride height gauges are wedges with the different vertical measurements spread out along a surface that isn't terribly far from horizontal. Because of this it tends to make things like a quarter millimeter (.25mm / .001") look REALLY BIG because of that misleading-appearing spread. Again, perspective.

Back to rotating the tires relative to Chris' "sweet spot". I find that if I rotate the tires after the first round of qualifying (one heat "off" even wear) and then run them two more heats there (one heat back to even, one heat "off" wear), then rotate them back again for the main that my side-to-side wear is generally very very close. Is there a "sweet spot" as Chris posits? There probably is, but I keep the difference to such a small level that it SHOULD be inconsequential.

My "routine" between heats includes tweaking, and I tweak for how the car will START the heat. I don't believe I see enough tire wear to make a substantive difference in tweak and/or handling, but even if I DID my car is starting the heat as "on" as I can make it and if the car changes it does so gradually (and similarly) each heat and would be easily compensated for. It's all going one way. If you were trying to "lead" the sweet spot you'd have the handling going one way as the wear caused things to head toward optimum, that brief moment of absolute perfection (because you WERE driving like a star and didn't hit anything) at mid-race, then the handling would go the other way as you departed that perfection. In theory.

I make any repairs or adjustments, rotate tires (if due), tweak the car on my scales, pookie the tires, go race. In that order every time.
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:14 PM   #32037
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
does your track have more of one direction turns?
Sorry Chris, but unless you have a cross-over a la Suzuka (or an intersection ) in your track or a hill-climb style (or rally stage) layout where your start and finish do not connect up you will ALWAYS have more turns one way than the other. I believe it always adds up to 360* (a complete circle worth) more turns to one side, to the right on a CCW running track and to the left on a CW running track.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Which side do you refer to as the outside, the drive side like an oval car?
I refer to the "outside" as whichever tire is pointing "out" on the exterior straights (most tracks are oriented ***EDIT*** CW which means the left tire). This (at least for me) tends to be the tire that wears more, all things equal.

Last edited by Scottrik; 09-08-2009 at 07:35 AM.
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Old 09-08-2009, 07:21 AM   #32038
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At all the tracks that I race at in the UK, they have always been clockwise orientated, so the outside tyres will be the left hand side of the chassis. I run a set of tyres per heat and final, so that's 5 sets. They get rotated from left to right depending on which tyre out of the pair are bigger or smaller diameter. We don't get much time between heats so the first thing I do after a heat is to change tyres, get additive on them, change cells (forgot to do that a couple of times in the past!) and then check for repairs/setup changes. Do like the technical side of RC racing though, hence questions like this have an intrest to me, haha! Cheers, Chris.
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Old 09-08-2009, 07:36 AM   #32039
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Sorry Chris--I musta stuttered on that "C" key. I, of course, meant that most tracks run CW, hence the LR being outboard.
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Old 09-08-2009, 09:12 AM   #32040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Massami can do it with his left foot while winning a heat in another class. Blindfolded no less.

I agree that it PROBABLY doesn't matter which end. I WOULD say, however, that to do it at the rear requires your rear pod to be PERFECTLY balanced side-to-side, and that balance will change depending on motor used, etc.

In fact, now I'm curious. There is FAR more wire (winds) in a motor now with brushless than there ever was in a brushed motor since those winds now fill the can and the magnet spins. How much weight difference is there between, say, a 17.5 and a 10.5?. Whatever difference would be CLOSE to being centered, but I can't believe it would be exactly, at least not to within the gram or so I tweak the front of my car to prior to heats.

When I build my cars I don't even weigh the rear pod for balance--as far as I'm concerned the tires contact patches are immoveable relative to each other, as long as things are pretty close (to keep tire wear even-ish) then it's close enough. So for me

I always do the front wheels which is how I learned.

I saw Mike Blackstock set tweak on his car--two coins on the front tires. If it's good enough for Mikey...

I HATED the Hudy tweak stand that came in the "All-in-One" set. Tried it a couple times, wasn't for me. That said, I'm sure there are folks who can make 'em sing...just nobody I've ever met.

I actually use four small scales to set balance or tweak my cars. On the 1/12 car I don't even turn the scales under the rear tires on.
Now you are making me think. In the past I have always used and integy lazer tweak board, there is no question that it gets the cross weights equal, which is what I always assumed that is what we were after. IF the rear pod is not equal weights on the rear tires then setting the front tires to equal weights would be setting the car up with unequal cross weights, which I have assumed for 15 years meant "tweaked".

That leads to the next question: would the ideal 12th scale car have the mass of the motor centered in the rear pod?
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