R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-06-2009, 11:57 AM   #32011
Tech Elite
 
Jammin57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,374
Trader Rating: 120 (100%+)
Default Need some help

Can anybody tell me what car this is and what it might be worth I am trying to help a buddy sell some stuff and he had this car but I know nothing about onroad stuff and dont think he does either, the car is in good shape its missing the servo mounts and it has 3 bodys one is good shape but the other 2 are cracked im not trying to sell it here im gonna list it in the for sale section just need to know what it is and what it might be worth any help would be appreciated, Thanks
1/12 forum-caster-racing-001.jpg

1/12 forum-caster-racing-002.jpg

1/12 forum-caster-racing-003.jpg
Jammin57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2009, 01:36 PM   #32012
Tech Regular
 
DPowell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 454
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin57 View Post
Can anybody tell me what car this is and what it might be worth I am trying to help a buddy sell some stuff and he had this car but I know nothing about onroad stuff and dont think he does either, the car is in good shape its missing the servo mounts and it has 3 bodys one is good shape but the other 2 are cracked im not trying to sell it here im gonna list it in the for sale section just need to know what it is and what it might be worth any help would be appreciated, Thanks

That car is a Trinity Reflex. It was introduced about six years ago. It had some unique features at the time but parts support kept it from becoming very popular with the most racers.
__________________
www.powellracingcomponents.com
**Record setting carbon fiber**

Speedmerchant and TOP USA dealer.
DPowell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2009, 03:17 PM   #32013
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 708
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DPowell View Post
That car is a Trinity Reflex. It was introduced about six years ago. It had some unique features at the time but parts support kept it from becoming very popular with the most racers.
Not to mention the tricky-to-setup front end. Luckily an Associated front end bolts right up, so does the T-bar. Plenty of spares now IIRC, the long chassis was a bit of a hindrance as well (it's longer than a standard 12L3 chassis by about 1/4") but they made a shorter version not long after. Check it against a 12L3/4 and see if they're the same. If so, get an ASC or similar front end and go racing
adam lancia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2009, 04:08 PM   #32014
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,638
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

I ran that front end on my old switchblade. It worked very well but yes, you really had to know what you were doing to set it up. If you do know what you are doing it will work as well as anything.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2009, 05:06 PM   #32015
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

spx setting 8 80mm to 90mm on a tight track with a 17.5 duo at center hole. the 90 was faster but the 80 was more consistant to the end.
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2009, 07:27 PM   #32016
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

I had one the Relex cars, thought it was really nice, apart from the spares back up! I don't think the AE lower blocks fitted though, the holes were too close together were n't they? Anyway, nice chassis.
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2009, 08:06 PM   #32017
Tech Elite
 
chris moore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phx AZ
Posts: 3,660
Trader Rating: 85 (99%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
I had one the Relex cars, thought it was really nice, apart from the spares back up! I don't think the AE lower blocks fitted though, the holes were too close together were n't they? Anyway, nice chassis.
I have one of these, cool concept front end but as mentioned abit tempermental to work with. And wingman2 is correct you cannot bolt up a stock AE frontend as the holes are too close; unless you enlarge the front body post holes. As to price dont expect much, its greatest value is to someone looking for a vintage shelf queen. I'd say that if you can get $50 take it and run.
__________________
Sponsered by:

CMDezigns Paint Works
https://www.facebook.com/pages/CM-Dezigns/259989190822177?ref=hl
chris moore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2009, 10:36 PM   #32018
Tech Master
 
Tire Chunker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,232
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Tweak station question.

For both link and t-bar cars do you put the rear wheels on the moving/bubble side of the tweak station?
Tire Chunker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2009, 10:45 PM   #32019
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,122
Trader Rating: 238 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tire Chunker View Post
Tweak station question.

For both link and t-bar cars do you put the rear wheels on the moving/bubble side of the tweak station?
No.
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2009, 09:13 AM   #32020
Tech Master
 
Tire Chunker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,232
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Scottrik,

Are you saying that both t-bar and link cars should check tweak with the front wheels on the movable section.

I have always check tweak with my t-bar cars with the rears on the bubble.

I am now running a link car and was looking for info on link cars and using a tweak station.

Do you set tweak on a link car with the rear wheels on the movable side of a tweak station?
Tire Chunker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2009, 10:11 AM   #32021
Tech Master
 
PartTime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sterling hts MI
Posts: 1,029
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tire Chunker View Post
Scottrik,

Are you saying that both t-bar and link cars should check tweak with the front wheels on the movable section.
Yes.
PartTime is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2009, 10:52 AM   #32022
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

Here's a question for you regarding setting the tweak, do you guys set the tweak using 'used' tyres? Normally the larger sized tyre goes on the outside, so do you set the tweak then, or when the tyres are trued to be the same size? The only reason I ask is that it seems to me that if the tyres are diferant sizes, and you set the tweak using them, then, as soon as you run your car, the setting will go out as the outside tyre wears more than the inside. I have a set of CRC high roller rims with a O-ring superglued to each, and use them to set the tweak. Then, I put the wheels/tyres on that I am giong to use. Does anyone else do this?
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2009, 02:44 PM   #32023
Tech Master
 
Tire Chunker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,232
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Has Hudy given the wrong info on seting tweak on a t-bar car for their tweak station?

http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...75&kategoria=0

With a sedan the tires on the non-moving bar are tires your are checking Tweak.


If you have the front tires on the moving side for 1/12th scale are you just checking tweak for the rear and not the front?
Tire Chunker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2009, 02:52 PM   #32024
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,625
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

I've used both methods, using front and rear, to set tweak and have been just as successful with both ways.

I actually prefer to set tweak with the rear tires on the balance/swivel side.

This argument has come up in this thread before.

There's more than one way to skin a cat.
EVILGRAFX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2009, 03:03 PM   #32025
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 649
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

If the car is balanced properly and has the same size tires from side to side you should get the same result when you tweak the front or rear.

Normally any tweak problems that I have are from different sized tires right to left or a collapsed spring in some where.
Fred_B is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:55 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0