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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-31-2009, 08:42 AM   #31966
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Originally Posted by Tire Chunker View Post
Question on a Sphere Competition 2007, can you run lipo 3.7v with a receiver pack or booster?

Last season everyone was using GTB and people were having issues with the LRP. I have read that setting to Nimh to turn off lipo cut-off helps but not sure if makes it ok for 1/12th lipo.

Thanks


Tom
Yes it works, and very well at that. You need a booster or rx pack and leave the speedo switch OFF. With the switch off it disables the radio priority and cut off circut. This way you have power for 8mins. If speedo is left on it will pull power from the motor to make sure it has enough for the radio and make it feel like your dumping.


DK
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Old 08-31-2009, 08:47 AM   #31967
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Thanks guys.
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Old 08-31-2009, 11:13 AM   #31968
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Hiya, that is indeed one of my SP12V's and yep, it is the same Wingman!

Corally put the steering servo at the front of their chassis designs starting with the SP12G. Then again with the G2 and G3 and once more with the V. They moved moved the servo position with the release of the 12M.

I am working on a new chassis at the mo that should be quite intresting once it's all finished. Got the drawings all done, will send them off to Fibre Lyte sometime this week.

Cheers, Chris.
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Old 08-31-2009, 07:33 PM   #31969
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Default Sj12

I designed this car and made most the parts other than axle and hardware. nothing borrowed from some other car. The ackerman was done in cad and closer to perfect with no bump steer compared to my traditional 12th. the rear servo was to move weight back. On my old rev5 setup battery back was always more steering. as your car slows down in the turn it dumps weight forward. at my home track i am 3 compounds harder front tire and still plenty of steering with this car and servo configuration. Most run 2x pink i'm on purple. It was just an idea i was testing. the car can bolt up standard front end aswell.
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Old 08-31-2009, 08:06 PM   #31970
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the car can bolt up standard front end aswell.
Can you keep that linkage setup with a normal suspension ?
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Old 08-31-2009, 09:42 PM   #31971
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Originally Posted by Shifty View Post
I designed this car and made most the parts other than axle and hardware. nothing borrowed from some other car. The ackerman was done in cad and closer to perfect with no bump steer compared to my traditional 12th. the rear servo was to move weight back. On my old rev5 setup battery back was always more steering. as your car slows down in the turn it dumps weight forward. at my home track i am 3 compounds harder front tire and still plenty of steering with this car and servo configuration. Most run 2x pink i'm on purple. It was just an idea i was testing. the car can bolt up standard front end aswell.


You have any more pictures on how the center link section works? Looks pretty complex/sturdy.
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Old 09-01-2009, 08:35 AM   #31972
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Default 1/12th Scale Tire Guide

1/12 Tires From Petitrc

As the 1:12 scale car season is about to start in many countries - except some others like Japan with a full program all year long, here is a summary of tires hardness.

Please, highlight mistakes or missing information!


BSR
Green - Duro 30-35 - Medium-soft Traditional US green.
White - Duro 30-35 - Medium/soft compound, recommended for mostly carpet tracks. Can be used on asphalt but wears alot on asphalt.
Pink - Duro 30-35 - Soft compound recommended for carpet and aspalt racing. Low wear/longer lasting characteristics.
Gray - Duro 35-40 - Medium compound recommended for mostly carpet tracks but also used on asphalt.
Gray/Silver - Dual compound-silver on outside of gray.
Double Pink - Duro 35-40 - Medium compound recommended for carpet and aspalt racing. This is equivalent to Jaco pink. Low wear/longer lasting characteristics.
Purple - Duro 38-43 - BSR developed their own mix of select sheets and seam positioning for our purple. BSR's single purple is different than others. If you want a purple similar to say Jaco use Our Double purple. - Medium/firm compound recommended for carpet and asphalt racing. Low wear/ longer lasting characteristics.
Double Purple - Duro 45-50 - Firm compound recommended on high traction asphalt and carpet tracks. Equivalent to Jaco purple. Low wear/longer lasting characteristics.
Silver - Duro 45-50 - Firm compound for high bite carpet tracks.
Firm Blue - Duro 55-65 - Hard compound recommended on high traction banked carpet tracks. Also offered as a spec tire for front tires.
Red - Firm compound recommended on asphalt for front tire.
Purple/Orange - Dual compound tire for carpet tracks. Helps prevent traction roll. This tire is equivalent to our sedan Double Pink/orange.
Double Purple/Orange - Dual compound tire for high traction carpet tracks. Helps prevent traction roll.

Corally / Corally USA
Front
Green tyres front 1-12 - Shore 32
Goldstar tyres front 1-12 - Shore 30
Silverstar tyres front 1-12 - Shore 34
Gold tyres front 1-12 - Shore 36
Silver tyres front 1-12 - Shore 38
Rear
Green tyres rear 1-12 - Shore 28
Orange (Outdoor Compound) rear 1-12 - Shore 28
Gold tyres rear 1-12 - Shore 28
Silver tyres rear 1-12 - Shore 30
Pink tyres rear 1-12 - Shore 30

CRC
Standard
Front
Magenta - 36-40 shore "soft purples". High grip, long life. Part of the pink/purple family of rubber. Great for 1/12th modified or asphalt.
Black - Long wear, high grip exotic racing rubber.
Red - Med-Firm 40 shore. Exotic, super long wear, med. grip, high rubber content racing foam. For front tires on asphalt. Not for carpet.
Purple - Firm 45 shore. Exotic, long wear, high grip, high rubber content racing foam.

Dual Compound
Magenta/Orange - Med. 35 - 39 shore. Exotic, long wear, high grip, high rubber content racing foam.
Purple/Orange - Firm 45 shore. Exotic, long wear, high grip, high rubber content racing foam.

Rear
White - Med. wear, high grip exotic racing rubber.
Green -30 shore Good old American foam rubber. Less expensive, good grip on carpet, but more wear than the pink/magenta family and more wear than the white/grey family.
Pink - 30-33 shore. High grip, long wear. The traction leader for rear grip. Great for asphalt. Wears like iron with great grip.
Grey - Long wear, high grip exotic racing rubber.
Magenta - 34 - 38 shore. High grip, long wear. Same family as pink, but firmer. Great for asphalt and carept. Wears like iron with great grip.

Pro Cut - Larger diameter
Front
Grey - Softer than black compound for more steering, gets less stickey than Magenta or Purple.
Black - Firm shore, long-wear, high grip, less rubber content, less tacky on high bite tracks.
Purple - Firm shore, long-wear, high grip, high rubber content.
Magenta - Medium shore, long-wear, high grip, high rubber content.

Rear
White - Soft shore, long-wear, high grip, less rubber content, less tacky on high grip. White compound is very soft and will chunk when trued very small
Grey - Medium shore, long-wear, high grip, less rubber content, less tacky on high grip tracks.
Pink - Soft shore, long-wear, high grip, high rubber content.
Magenta - Medium shore, long-wear, high grip, high rubber content.


GRP Gandini




Jaco
Standard
Front
Green Medium, standard
Pink Medium-Soft, low wear
Double pink Medium, low wear
Purple Medium-Firm, low wear

Rear
Green Medium, standard
Pink Medium-Soft, low wear
Gray Medium, low wear
White Medium-Firm, low wear
Prism Larger diameter
Front
Magenta 32
Double Pink 35
Lilac 38
Purple 40
Black 40

Rear
White 25
Yellow 30
Gray 35
Pink 30
Magenta - 32

Parma
Standard
White 25
Pink 30
Black 35
Violet 35/40
Purple 40

Pro 38 Larger diameter
Grey 30
Magenta 37
Purple 42

TRC


Standard

Front
Green
Blue
Double Blue
Black
Magenta
Pink
Purple
Red
Cyan
Tan
Lime


Rear
Black
Magenta
Green
White
Gray
Platinum
Pink
Purple
Granite

Capz Dual Stage - Larger diameter
Front
Magenta
Purple

Rear
Magenta
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Old 09-01-2009, 11:17 AM   #31973
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Originally Posted by jammincrtjames View Post
-will ceramic diff balls help the longevity between diff re-builds?
?
Yes, they do. I see wm have them and they are buy 1 get 1 free right now

Last edited by Marcos.J; 09-02-2009 at 07:26 AM. Reason: removed spam link
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Old 09-01-2009, 12:53 PM   #31974
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Default Any 12L3 Drivers out there?

Question for any 12L3 drivers who are also running the Jaco Prism rear wheels. What are you doing to get enough pod clearance on the left (non-drive) side of the pod? Shimming, trimming the rim/tire on the inside, or maybe another idea?

Thanks
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Old 09-01-2009, 01:29 PM   #31975
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Question for any 12L3 drivers who are also running the Jaco Prism rear wheels. What are you doing to get enough pod clearance on the left (non-drive) side of the pod? Shimming, trimming the rim/tire on the inside, or maybe another idea?

Thanks
Check your width. Should be 172mm max. Shim till you get there and if the tire still rubs then sand down the carbon bottom plate that sticks out past the bulkhead.

DK
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Old 09-01-2009, 01:48 PM   #31976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tire Chunker View Post
1/12 Tires From Petitrc

As the 1:12 scale car season is about to start in many countries - except some others like Japan with a full program all year long, here is a summary of tires hardness.

Please, highlight mistakes or missing information!


Parma
Parma is now the same as Jaco since Jaco makes the Blackhawk rims/tires for them.
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Old 09-01-2009, 02:21 PM   #31977
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Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
Check your width. Should be 172mm max. Shim till you get there and if the tire still rubs then sand down the carbon bottom plate that sticks out past the bulkhead.

DK
Thanks for the info. I was looking at grinding down the bottom plate a little...which would probably do the trick. I was a little concrened about weakening the bottom plate as it is already thin on that side, but I would think the left bulkhead sould provide a good portion of the strength on that side.

Thanks again.
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Old 09-01-2009, 03:47 PM   #31978
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You should try the fibre lyte wheel spacers for those rims. They go between the rim and the hub, rather than the hub and the bearing. They are great because you can shim the axle for maximum width for regular rims, and then use these spacers to get maximum width for offset rims. Makes life much easier all round when using several makes of rear rims.
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Old 09-01-2009, 03:53 PM   #31979
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
You should try the fibre lyte wheel spacers for those rims. They go between the rim and the hub, rather than the hub and the bearing. They are great because you can shim the axle for maximum width for regular rims, and then use these spacers to get maximum width for offset rims. Makes life much easier all round when using several makes of rear rims.
That sounds like a good idea wingman2. Where can I get such a creature?

Glenn
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Old 09-01-2009, 10:22 PM   #31980
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Here you go mate:

http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/

I have used them quite a few times and seem a good bunch.

Cheers, Chris.
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