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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 06-16-2003, 07:19 PM   #3181
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I have the little hole in the end of the tube in mine too. But I don't have any springs, is the carpet knife supposed to not have any springs? They're different cars so I don't think I can answer your question, but I do believe the hole is supposed to be there. The heaviest shock oil I have right now is 80 weight so I'll just use that untill I can get some 100 or heavier. I don't believe there are any burrs on the insert, but I'll double check, and I did clean out the tube with a Q tip, but I'll do it some more, I'll also try spraying out the damper tube with some motor spray. How would using heavier shock oil in your damper tubes affect the handling on your car? If it does change it at all.
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Old 06-16-2003, 07:36 PM   #3182
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The hole is a excess fluid bleed hole so that you dont pressure your damber tubes. the CRC tubes are known for binding up after taking a slight hit however i havent heard about them doing that brand new. normally most of the binding comes from the end of the tube where they cut it. to get rid of it try using a body reamer to ream out the large end of the tube slightly. i have tried it in the past for people with CRC damber tubes on their cars and it cures it most of the time
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Old 06-16-2003, 07:43 PM   #3183
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The hole in the dampening tubes for the CRC are supposed to be there. This is where the excess lube, over time will be released. Otherwise you end up with gunk inside of the tubes as you race more and more. The dampening tubes do not have springs on them like the Trinity car. That is what the side springs are for. They are just located differently on the respective vehicles.
I used a wide hole punch tool to kind of flare the openings on my tubes as I was faced with the same problem you were. It solved it right away.
The advantage of using heavier fluid in the dampening tubes is it stabalizes the car through your low and high speed corners. Hope this helps.
For more info, visit the CRC forum: http://www.teamcrc.com/phpBB2/
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Old 06-16-2003, 09:59 PM   #3184
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The damper tubes are pretty smooth now after I sprayed them out with motor spray and I cleaned them some more with a Q tip. But the friction is at the end just as you have said, I may go back and enlarge the end with a reamer, but I will probably just do that when I put some heavier oil in. I've encountered another problem, but this is for mounting the servo. On my servo (Airtronics 94145Z) there are holes to mount the servo on the end like all standard servos have and than there are mounts on the side of the servo. When I mount the servo the servo should be at a slight angle facing up right? And the servo saver when centered is pointing down? But the mounting holes on the side of the servo get in the way for mounting the servo at a slight angle on the servo mounts. So I have to cut off the servo mounting holes on the side right.......? I haven't done anything yet becuase I wanted to make sure I was doing it right. There is only one hole on the angle servo mounts that came with the car, so which hole on the servo should I use, the top or bottom one? Could someone show me a picture of a carpet knife with their servo mounted? That would help me out a lot. Thanks!
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Old 06-16-2003, 11:00 PM   #3185
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Here's another question I've got, how do you keep the rear axle center? I couldn't find anything in my instructions, is there a piece that keeps it center? I'm kinda stumped on this one. Thanks in advance, again .
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Old 06-16-2003, 11:04 PM   #3186
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Does anyone know of a company that makes a good "A" arm shim kit for a Associated 12L3? These are the shims used to adjust the front ride height. The stock ones are 1.6mm. I'm looking for something in a 1mm thickness. Thanks!
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Old 06-17-2003, 01:20 AM   #3187
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i bought my rc12 used and it didnt come with the thick washers. i bought a bag of radio shack washers and im using the biggest size. i really havent measured the thickness yet but theyre a bit thinner than the stock rc12 washers. im not sure about the quality of the radio shack washers (some may be a bit thicker than the others because of the chrome plating) so you may want to choose 4 of the same size and sand them down so all 4 will be uniform in thickness.
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Old 06-17-2003, 04:30 AM   #3188
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I got a bag from Home Depot, I think it was #8 or 10 washers, and they were 1.2 mm thick. I se those as weel as the 1.6 AE ones.
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Old 06-17-2003, 08:34 AM   #3189
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Default servo mounting

racerdx6: If you're using the Old Skool front-end run the servo FLAT on the chassis. If you've got the 94145 airtronics bolt it make sure it's straight and centered, and bolt it down. I'd also recommend running a small bead of shoe-goo in front of and behind the servo where it meets the chassis. I have seen individuals move their servos within the slots in those mounts after a good hard hit.
Team CRC, PowerPush, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, TxDSkingraphix, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
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Old 06-17-2003, 09:52 AM   #3190
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Ok, heres another delima (is that spelled right? ). I ordered an Airtronics 94145Z servo from Hobby Ect. But they sent me a 94145, with out the Z connector. And the connector that's on the servo doesn't work with Futaba, so that kinda pisses me off. Because now I need to either return the servo and buy the right one, or install a new connector. On the sticker thing that says the price on the servo's box it also says the part number and description, and it says 94145Z, but the servo doesn't say that, all the servo says is 94145. What a pain in the a$$. What should I do?? Could I install a new connector? Would it matter what kind of connector it was? I have an old one from one of my old esc's that died, could I take off the current connector and put a new one on? Or does it have to be a specific kind? This makes me kinda, really mad . I really could use some help here.
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Old 06-17-2003, 11:13 AM   #3191
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swipe that connector off of the ld speedo.... make sure you put the wires in correctly....

Here's the info to make it correct....


Aitronics= =Futaba
Blue = signal= White
Red = + = Red
Black= - = Black
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

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Old 06-17-2003, 02:21 PM   #3192
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Default exercise yer brain

I was just thinkin about how before the internet you used to just have to figure stuff out yerself...hmmm
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Old 06-17-2003, 02:28 PM   #3193
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Default CRC damper tubes

one thing I've noticed about CRC damper tubes is that the little bleed hole on the end can have some flash left over on the inside from drilling it that will cause the insert to bind when fully inserted. I cleaned it up with a long round file (being carefull not to scratch the inside of the tube) to fix the problem. Reaming out the other end of the tube can also solve it because it makes the insert sloppy in the tube, but this results in poor shock action.
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Old 06-17-2003, 08:59 PM   #3194
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Racerdx - what is the color of the connector. The Z connector is blue. If it isn't blue, the servo is not a 94145Z. But things are not lost, yet. Check your LHS for some little connector bodies. Novak has them and others. Use the one that is for the JR. All you have to do is remove the contacts and wires from the connector on the servo wire and insert them into the one for the JR. Make sure the black wire is to the right, the red wire is in the center and the white/blue wire is on the left as they fit into the receiver. That is looking at the receiver with the connector positions on the right. Good luck.
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Old 06-17-2003, 09:49 PM   #3195
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DavidL: If I remember correctly ( which I sometimes don't) the old style Airtronics connecter had the retaining tab on the metal terminal. The blue "Z" connecter has the retaining lug on the blue plastic plug. Not sure, but I don't think the old-style metal terminal will fit the new blue "Z" plug.

But it will fit the JR plug, just like you said! Might want to tag that as being wired for a "Z"-type connection.
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