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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-14-2009, 12:19 PM   #31816
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MOD

I wish mod would come back but too many cherry pickers out there for that to happen.

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Old 08-20-2009, 08:18 AM   #31817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
I'll also have one of the motors mounted up in my SM car on Monday too
Adam, can you post up a picture either here or in the SP2.0 thread showing the clearance between the back of the bullet/motor and the left pod plate? Thanks...
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:23 AM   #31818
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Default Newbie Question

I just picked up a 1/12 to race this winter and I have a newbie question. What gauge wire is the best for 1/12? I'll be running 17.5 (most likely a Novak for now) with a Tekin RS, Thunder Power 1s Lipo, and either the Novak or TQ booster.

Thanks
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:24 AM   #31819
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Adam: Will Speedpassion be looking to do an ESC similar to novaks new Havoc 1S unit?
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:27 AM   #31820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70 View Post
Adam, can you post up a picture either here or in the SP2.0 thread showing the clearance between the back of the bullet/motor and the left pod plate? Thanks...
I keep forgetting to grab the motor, i'll make sure to do it tonight!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Adam: Will Speedpassion be looking to do an ESC similar to novaks new Havoc 1S unit?
Were always looking at the future and that's all I can say about that
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Old 08-20-2009, 09:01 AM   #31821
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Originally Posted by Misfit Chef View Post
I just picked up a 1/12 to race this winter and I have a newbie question. What gauge wire is the best for 1/12? I'll be running 17.5 (most likely a Novak for now) with a Tekin RS, Thunder Power 1s Lipo, and either the Novak or TQ booster.

Thanks
14ga - 16ga I think most people use 16ga (I do- I think- need to check).
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Last edited by EricF; 08-20-2009 at 10:36 PM. Reason: need to check what wire size I use more often... DOH!
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Old 08-20-2009, 09:27 AM   #31822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Misfit Chef View Post
I just picked up a 1/12 to race this winter and I have a newbie question. What gauge wire is the best for 1/12? I'll be running 17.5 (most likely a Novak for now) with a Tekin RS, Thunder Power 1s Lipo, and either the Novak or TQ booster.

Thanks
Misfit - Pick yourself up some of TQ Racing's 16ga wire. It will carry all the current you'll ever need plus it is super flexible so it's easy to work with as far as laying out your wire runs and it won't bind up your rear pod. It also comes in several colors for easy color matching. You might want to think about getting a different motor so you can use their awesome sensor cables.
http://www.tqracing.com/rc_products.htm
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Old 08-20-2009, 03:30 PM   #31823
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Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
I wish mod would come back but too many cherry pickers out there for that to happen.

DK
Mod is going to be where the challenge is at. You'll need to use strategy again to keep from dumping. Plus the cars won't be quite so out of control. Hopefuly we'll slow down just enough to make it a race again.

Stock is fine for club racing but I hope a bunch of the losers that run stock will move up this year. With the new stock speeds winning should just be the hint that you should move up. Kinda like the old days.
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Old 08-20-2009, 07:41 PM   #31824
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So, if I drill new holes and go to the longer GenX-10 side links on my GenX 1/12th, what will that do to the handling or feel of the car? I could wait for the new lipo chassis that will most likely use the longer links, but it probably won't be out till like Febuary when the season is almost over.
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Old 08-21-2009, 03:21 PM   #31825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy View Post
Misfit - Pick yourself up some of TQ Racing's 16ga wire. It will carry all the current you'll ever need plus it is super flexible so it's easy to work with as far as laying out your wire runs and it won't bind up your rear pod. It also comes in several colors for easy color matching. You might want to think about getting a different motor so you can use their awesome sensor cables.
http://www.tqracing.com/rc_products.htm
+1

The same wire is also available from CRC. Best I've ever used. As said above it's worth checking out their sensor cables too if you get a motor without a cable attached.

Trev
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Old 08-22-2009, 05:34 AM   #31826
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I'm wiring up that SP motor now, the bullet plugs need a little persuasion because they're about 2mm to long.

Of to Home Depot for some new Dremel tips!
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Old 08-22-2009, 06:43 AM   #31827
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Here the motor in a Rev 5

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Old 08-22-2009, 12:43 PM   #31828
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HAVE CARPET KNIFE 3.2R. was told that there is a conversion kit for brushless motor. tryed to find it on the calandra web page but had no such luck.so I;m here asking the masses if any body has the part # for the kit or the # for the parts needed I would be very happy. thanks in advance.
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Old 08-22-2009, 04:18 PM   #31829
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I don't know about for the 3.2 but the Gen X which uses a similar rear pod had a Brushless rear pod.
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Old 08-22-2009, 06:02 PM   #31830
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hi everyone,

can someone give me an idea what spur/pinion to use on a xray XII on carpet with a 10,5 brushless motor please ?

thank you !

Greetz.
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