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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-06-2009, 06:37 AM   #31771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myrxseven View Post
I have a CRC GenX, and I will be running in 17.5 Lipo. My question is, what is a good setup to start with running on brand new carpet. Also what would a good tire combo be. Thanks ahead of time.
Most of us around here are running Magenta frt and pink rear. Seems like a good place to start.
AE .018 front spring or crc version, not sure about the sizes
5deg caster block
about 6 degs caster

Red crc shock spring
white side springs.

That should get you pretty close. HTH
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Old 08-06-2009, 10:07 AM   #31772
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Default Brushless in a SP12M Euro

Anyone fitted brushless in a Corally SP12M Euro? The endbell fouls on the rear pod where the second screw goes through the t-bar and bottom pod brace. Has anyone removed the offending part of the pod and used a screw and nut instead? [pic]
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Old 08-06-2009, 10:31 AM   #31773
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Stupid question but why not rotate the motor so the solder tabs are at an upward angle?
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Old 08-06-2009, 03:44 PM   #31774
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It's not the solder tab thats causing the problem, its the small angled section at the base of the motor pod at the back of the motor, ie look down from the rear axle. Seen a couple of 1/12th install with the tabs in that direction and the wires coming down the centre of the car, looks very clean
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Old 08-07-2009, 05:18 AM   #31775
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Default setup

i have recently purchased a RC12R5 and am just waiting on my cells to arrive.
It is running a GTB 4-cell with a Roche 10.5t motor.

Could someone give me a base setup for this car on a low traction asphalt track? we havent built the track yet but the space is 2 full tennis courts so it will have medium length back straight.

what rollout should i aim for with a 10.5t motor? i have a 72 tooth spur if that makes a difference.

thanks
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:18 PM   #31776
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Has anyone tried the Hyperdrive R5 front bulkheads on an L4 based chassis?
http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...oducts_id=1854
From what i can see they are designed so the car will have the same track and wheelbase as the original.
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:34 PM   #31777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWH74 View Post
Has anyone tried the Hyperdrive R5 front bulkheads on an L4 based chassis?
http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...oducts_id=1854
From what i can see they are designed so the car will have the same track and wheelbase as the original.
Looks like it should work. Haven't seen them in person though.
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Old 08-08-2009, 09:45 PM   #31778
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Hi Conrad, looking at your pic, could you drill the hole out a bit and replace the nut and bolt with a captive nut and bolt from the SP12X? That would give you the clearance needed. Worth a try huh?! Cheers.
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Old 08-09-2009, 05:19 AM   #31779
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi Conrad, looking at your pic, could you drill the hole out a bit and replace the nut and bolt with a captive nut and bolt from the SP12X? That would give you the clearance needed. Worth a try huh?! Cheers.
Sounds like your talking about the nut and bolt on the front side of the motor below the solder tabs? Clearance there is fine, its the machined alloy pod at the back of the motor that i'm having trouble with. I dont want to remove the leg/angled part of the pod and find out there is no strength left in the pod, i'll edit up the pic later and make it clear for everyone.

I've heard those captive nuts mentioned before, part number anyone?
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Old 08-10-2009, 03:39 AM   #31780
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Hello, I am new to 12th racing...
I race on low grip asphalt with 4.5T Orion and Ko esc. 5 minutes races/ qualifiers
I need some advice on car setup on the following,
On a low grip highspeed track what is the caster deg I can start with?
What the difference between , static caster and final caster? Which on to use?
Droop? how much is recomended?
What rollout for a 4.5T or gearing?
Thanks
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Old 08-10-2009, 09:06 AM   #31781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conrad View Post
Sounds like your talking about the nut and bolt on the front side of the motor below the solder tabs? Clearance there is fine, its the machined alloy pod at the back of the motor that i'm having trouble with. I dont want to remove the leg/angled part of the pod and find out there is no strength left in the pod, i'll edit up the pic later and make it clear for everyone.

I've heard those captive nuts mentioned before, part number anyone?
Conrad (and Wingman) I've raced Corally's for way to many years and I have put a Novak Brushless in a 12M. I use it in our 48min enduro race where I use a 4 cell stick pack with spacers in the center to allow the T-bar to flex .... sorry back to the question ..... You will need to take the whole motor pod apart and build it "Around" the motor. I needed to use a dremel on some of the bottom plate to get full movement of the motor, which is not a lot, but once done, I have run this car for 3-4 years and never broken the rear pod and it has had many "Hits".

If needed, I could pull mine and take a few pictures, would just have to put the motor back. Let me know.
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Old 08-10-2009, 12:58 PM   #31782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWH74 View Post
Has anyone tried the Hyperdrive R5 front bulkheads on an L4 based chassis?
http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...oducts_id=1854
From what i can see they are designed so the car will have the same track and wheelbase as the original.

You will need to add the .5 mm shim between the Hyperdrive block and the lower A-Arm. But beside that the aluminum blocks will make the R5 front end the same wheelbase and width as the older front ends on cars that are drilled for the 8-32 screws.
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Old 08-10-2009, 02:12 PM   #31783
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Well that's all going to depend on the car too. Not all cars running an AE style front end have the same spacing between the lower arms.
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Old 08-10-2009, 02:42 PM   #31784
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If needed, I could pull mine and take a few pictures, would just have to put the motor back. Let me know.
If you wouldnt mind that would be excellent thanks as i dont quite grasp what you mean by build the pod around the motor. I can get the motor in and out fine, i just dont have any space to move it back and forth to mesh it. I wonder is there a difference in length between different manufacturers brushless motors?
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Old 08-10-2009, 02:58 PM   #31785
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Conrad-The Novak Ballistic series motors do have a different shape in the back. There is a shoulder and the back end is smaller diameter. It may solve your problem. You can also grind that side plate down to a thinner flange and use a nut or slightly thicker with a captive or T-nut made of steel. You will want to retain a bolt there for adequate pod stiffness. Won't be pretty.
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