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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 07-29-2009, 09:06 PM   #31756
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Default Noob in the house.

Hi everyone, my name is David and i'm new to the game... I'm sure i will be on here alot asking for help and advice. My father has been in this game for a decade or so and decided to hand me over the keys to his cars. He will assist me as much as possible but it would also be great if I could make some buddies on here along the way. I am inheriting his CRC Razor II and a Losi spint car along with his entire setup (tools, parts,etc..). If anyone out there has any words of wisdom on the first thing I should do please feel free to drop me a line.
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Old 07-30-2009, 08:30 AM   #31757
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Originally Posted by RAL View Post
whats this body look like? anyone know? open cockpit?

Anyone know if this is the body Dale was working on for the new EFRA 12th body shell rules?

Schumacher Atom GT12
Schumacher Eclipse 12th
CARSrcracing.co.uk Webmaster
Schumacher Racing
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Old 07-30-2009, 10:27 AM   #31758
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Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
Anyone know if this is the body Dale was working on for the new EFRA 12th body shell rules?

Most likely, yes.
By the way the body is a closed cockpit.
Some one else asked earlier.
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Old 07-30-2009, 01:00 PM   #31759
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Thanks for the replies everyone.

It would be great if someone brings out a lipo saddle pack that will drop into a T-bar style car. I ended up getting a 12r5 but i have a cyclone touring car and like the hotbodies brand so i dont really want to get rid of my cyclone 12s.

With regards to battery capacity. My friends seem to think that the track which is being run for this years nationals is going to chew through the power. It's bigger and has more grip than what we normally run on. They are gunna be strapping in some hefty motors. Personally im a little skeptical that we will need that much capacity but i aint really got any 12th scale experience so im erring on the side of their advice.

But ultimately cells are getting more expensive to buy locally in australia and i also dont trust the stock which is around. So whether i like it or not lipos are coming.
Hot Bodies Cyclone!!!
www.rchobbies.com.au - www.feralbatteries.com.au
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Old 07-30-2009, 02:33 PM   #31760
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I have posted pictures of my CRC Xforce and although it’s not a readily produced car I am just pointing out the problems and experiences I am having with lipos. I did run it with a TForce in Memphis at the Beat the Heat race and only lost by .25 seconds to an xray with a 5000 40c thunder power pack. Not bad for my first time running lipo in a 12th scale. I ran a 13.5 EA duo and my SMC 4000 25C took about 2500mah to charge back on a 160x80 nitro track with VHT. My rollout was 3.44” or 87mm We turned 22 laps at about 22.5 seconds per lap average. Now in my TForce I was running the thinner .090 chassis which allowed me to place only 28grams extra to balance it out with a 9602 fatuba servo and spx speedo and Novak battery booster bringing me up to 735 grams. Not bad but I figure if I was running the CRC thick .110” Tforce chassis I would have had a little trouble to get down to weight and still be balanced. So when I transferred to carpet and put in my 17.5 I had stuck to the same gear as the carpet track Thunder RC is 92x50. went out and ran 12.1 second laps. For reference I have turned 11.2 on the same layout and EA turned 10.8 on the track with 4cell 17.5 I geared up 2 teeth to 3.64” 92.5mm rollout and turned 11.6 laps so far. Weird enough I think due to the higher bite I have had to put 2800 to 2900mahs in the pack to recharge it. Now for the bad news, Donnie Lia is a goober telling me I can balance it out to weight, to balance out my car I have to add almost 45grams which puts me 35grams over the 730gram weight and that’s with the lighter SMC 4000 pack. So does anybody know what the weight difference between the 3 packs available? Because if I actually got a good 40c 5000 pack I would probably have to add another 20 to 30 grams to the left side of the car plus what the battery is using to balance it back out. This would put me in the 800 gram range which is a serious disadvantage. I mean I have a micro DSM receiver in it. I can’t get it any lighter. People running the 5000 packs in tplate cars are you have trouble getting to the 730 weight limit?


RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.

Last edited by nashrcracer; 07-30-2009 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 07-30-2009, 02:51 PM   #31761
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I have a CRC GenX, and I will be running in 17.5 Lipo. My question is, what is a good setup to start with running on brand new carpet. Also what would a good tire combo be. Thanks ahead of time.
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Old 07-30-2009, 06:06 PM   #31762
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Default RC12L3o for road course.

How would a 12L3o handle on a road course with a lipo on the left side and electronics on the right. And does a brushless fit the rear pod? Any modifications or parts required? Thanks!
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Old 07-31-2009, 06:50 AM   #31763
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Default Corally 12X pinions

Hi all

Need a source of long shank pinions above 35t that Corally offers. I am running brushless 17.5 and 13.5 with PRS 76/80 spurs and 45-50 pinions. The track width can sometimes allow the pinions to wobble due to the short shank of the pinion. Any other sources or suggestions?
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:14 AM   #31764
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Originally Posted by rinkrat99 View Post
Hi all

Need a source of long shank pinions above 35t that Corally offers. I am running brushless 17.5 and 13.5 with PRS 76/80 spurs and 45-50 pinions. The track width can sometimes allow the pinions to wobble due to the short shank of the pinion. Any other sources or suggestions?
The Niftech motor shaft extender is a viable option here. Not inexpensive, but (like everything else Ray makes) is incredibly precise and very useful. Also, the expense ($22 in this case plus shipping, etc) offsets the need to buy the oddball pinions. In fact I wouldn't at all be surprised if the need for "extended pinions on the Corally cars was the impetus for Ray developing these.

I just picked up one of these for my Novak Mongoose 380-sized motor car I'm experimenting with.

There is a possibility that the shaft coupler could interfere with the pinion boss if run "right way 'round" but reversing the pinion so the grub screw is outboard (like off-road cars) would solve that.

Part number is #4001

You can contact Ray and Julie (possibly the nicest people in RC!!) at 440-257-6018...tell 'em Scott in Montana sent you. Dig through their catalog and you'll find other great stuff. I swear by their traction compound ('cept you guys are required to use Jack ), their diff lube (in the syringe), bearing lubes (for ball bearings and motor bearings), their alignment tool for 1/8" axle pan cars is a MUST HAVE item for 1/12 racing as far as I'm concerned, reamers for steering blocks and axle height adjusters (though less critical with the IRS adjusters than the old Associated ones), and on and on. I've got scads of their stuff in my race kit (and duplicates on my bench at home) and have never regretted any purchase I've made from them.
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Old 07-31-2009, 08:23 AM   #31765
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Originally Posted by rinkrat99 View Post
Hi all

Need a source of long shank pinions above 35t that Corally offers. I am running brushless 17.5 and 13.5 with PRS 76/80 spurs and 45-50 pinions. The track width can sometimes allow the pinions to wobble due to the short shank of the pinion. Any other sources or suggestions?
When I was looking for larger pinions for my 12x I was told that none were avalible above 35. I think thats because corally really only designed it for brushed aplications but I may be mistaken on that. The only optiions I could find were the extender that Scottrik posted or change to a bigger spur.
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Old 07-31-2009, 04:35 PM   #31766
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Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
Anyone know if this is the body Dale was working on for the new EFRA 12th body shell rules?

Yes. And for those that don't look at RedRC.net very often, here is the infomation and pics of the new body:


Dumas had one of these on his car two weeks ago at our track, and his car was hooked and flying better than everyone.
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Old 07-31-2009, 06:03 PM   #31767
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That is one sexy looking body.
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
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Old 07-31-2009, 09:23 PM   #31768
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
That is one sexy looking body.
Guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder. But it does look like it would glue a car down.

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Old 08-05-2009, 07:55 AM   #31769
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With 13.4/1c lipo how much drop off are you all seeing in lap times from the beginning through the end of the race? Last night my car feel off about .150-.2 on lap times over 8 min but I think my car is one tooth over geared.
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:36 AM   #31770
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this past weekend at our club race, dumas ran a 12.7 fast lap and a 13.0 average. so I would say very little
yang lai

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