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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-23-2009, 08:08 PM   #31741
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Default rear pod droop

how do you check rear pod droop.. where do you adjust it and where do you check it and how
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Old 07-23-2009, 10:42 PM   #31742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obi wun View Post
how do you check rear pod droop.. where do you adjust it and where do you check it and how
I check mine by placing the main chassis on 10mm blocks and then use the ride height gage to check the height of the rear of the pod.

On the r5 you adjust droop by the nut on the rear shock- there's a nut just in front of the spring retainer collar- righty tight = less droop, lefty lucy the opposite.
E
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Old 07-24-2009, 02:48 AM   #31743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF View Post
I check mine by placing the main chassis on 10mm blocks and then use the ride height gage to check the height of the rear of the pod.

On the r5 you adjust droop by the nut on the rear shock- there's a nut just in front of the spring retainer collar- righty tight = less droop, lefty lucy the opposite.
E
What does doop change on the car handling? [more droop or less droop]
Thanks
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Old 07-24-2009, 06:35 AM   #31744
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I downloaded a CRC 1/12th manual to learn about what does what (eg, more droop/less droop)... whether it applies to all 1/12's i dont know, but i have a newly built 12R5 just waiting on a speedy so i'll let you know how i go.

heres a link to CRC manual (scroll to the page 16 for tuning guide)... hope this helps

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...manual_web.pdf


What is a good tweak station to get for the 1/12's without spending too much?
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Old 07-29-2009, 05:11 AM   #31745
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I recently started racing 12th and have a t-bar style car (cyclone 12) and im looking to run lipos in it.

Now im kind of stuck because cells are starting to get hard to get in oz for a decent price, and im not keen of getting rid of my current cars and changing to a new chassis so early on.

Anyway just looking for some ideas....
Now there are 4200 roar approved saddle packs which can be mounted in the car if i cut a slot in the chassis to tape it down or mount it sideways. I dont like like the looks of mounting it sideways because the lipo then hangs a long way out over the edge of the chassis and one of the connectors is close to the pad.
Now my problem is that for a particular track we run in a few months 4200 mah is probably not going to be enuff and the 6000 saddle pack is way too high to mount under the shell.
Now im just thinking i have plenty of room so perhaps i could try running the 4200 saddle packs in parallel instead of series as they are designed can anyone think of a reason why this might not work.

Does anyone know if there may be any other options available?


Im also wondering if anyone has any feed back on the TQ receiver boosters. Ive been told that they have a tendency to fail, and they seem really pricey if they are not reliable. im thinking the novak would be the better option but looks larger.
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Old 07-29-2009, 09:57 AM   #31746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
I recently started racing 12th and have a t-bar style car (cyclone 12) and im looking to run lipos in it.

Now im kind of stuck because cells are starting to get hard to get in oz for a decent price, and im not keen of getting rid of my current cars and changing to a new chassis so early on.

Anyway just looking for some ideas....
Now there are 4200 roar approved saddle packs which can be mounted in the car if i cut a slot in the chassis to tape it down or mount it sideways. I dont like like the looks of mounting it sideways because the lipo then hangs a long way out over the edge of the chassis and one of the connectors is close to the pad.
Now my problem is that for a particular track we run in a few months 4200 mah is probably not going to be enuff and the 6000 saddle pack is way too high to mount under the shell.
Now im just thinking i have plenty of room so perhaps i could try running the 4200 saddle packs in parallel instead of series as they are designed can anyone think of a reason why this might not work.

Does anyone know if there may be any other options available?


Im also wondering if anyone has any feed back on the TQ receiver boosters. Ive been told that they have a tendency to fail, and they seem really pricey if they are not reliable. im thinking the novak would be the better option but looks larger.

Well if your having this problem then I would guess that everyone else is haveing the same issue. What did you guys do when you were running 3300 or 3800 cells if 4200 is'nt enough. The new 5000mah 1s packs should have enough mah for you, might take a little bit of testing to figure out the correct gearing. I can address the TQ question; I've been running that booster since the first SMC 1s came out. I have'nt had any failures with the one I have, its operated perfectly for me. And while it's not cheap its less than the Novak unit, although the Novak one does incorperate the voltage cutoff which might be very usefull if your going to be using over 4200mah.
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Old 07-29-2009, 10:10 AM   #31747
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Mangoman...keep an eye out for SpeedZoneUSA RC...they are going to release a 5000mah 1s brick pack shortly and I know Gavin is working on a design for a 1s Lipo Saddle Pack for t-bar chassis.

I'm in the same position as you, having recently invested in a CEFX Pheonix (t-bar) as well as my trusted speedmerchants.

Quick question for you asphalt racers. What's a good starting tire combination to use for 1s Lipo racing...prefer to use Jaco Prism's as track width is set for Jaco's.

Will likely go to the Region 2 electric outdoor regionals and prefer to keep tire cost at a minimal. I was thinking Lilac / Pinks?
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Old 07-29-2009, 10:29 AM   #31748
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Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
Mangoman...keep an eye out for SpeedZoneUSA RC...they are going to release a 5000mah 1s brick pack shortly and I know Gavin is working on a design for a 1s Lipo Saddle Pack for t-bar chassis.

I'm in the same position as you, having recently invested in a CEFX Pheonix (t-bar) as well as my trusted speedmerchants.

Quick question for you asphalt racers. What's a good starting tire combination to use for 1s Lipo racing...prefer to use Jaco Prism's as track width is set for Jaco's.

Will likely go to the Region 2 electric outdoor regionals and prefer to keep tire cost at a minimal. I was thinking Lilac / Pinks?
I was testing different Jaco compounds this past Fri on asphalt. I started with dpl pink all around, then tried combos of pink, and dpl pink rears with purple, lilac, and dpl pink fronts. In all those combos I still liked dpl pink front and rear best. I'm going to try some grey rears next time out. I found that with small changes I could get all these combos to work ok but the dpl pinks seemed to give the best consistant feel and the best tire wear. This was with my BMI car, the track had very good grip and ambient temps were 110 F, was'nt able to take a temp of the track but I'm sure it up there.
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Old 07-29-2009, 11:26 AM   #31749
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While I have never tried it, I don't think grey's would work too well on asphalt. Try magenta all around. Outstanding tire.
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Old 07-29-2009, 11:54 AM   #31750
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Im also wondering if anyone has any feed back on the TQ receiver boosters. Ive been told that they have a tendency to fail, and they seem really pricey if they are not reliable. im thinking the novak would be the better option but looks larger.
I bought two TQ Cells Boosters and they both failed, one immediately after plugging it in, the other about 5-minutes after being plugged in. TQ Cells confirmed they had a defect in some of the early units and offered to replace them if I paid for postage, but I instead bought the Novak units.

Another racer I run with consistently had a TQ Cells booster had one fail about 1-month ago after 4-months of use.

The Novak Smart Boost's work great. I purchased two initially, but decided to try receiver batteries for awhile, and sold those boosters to another racer. Subsequently, I have purchased 4 boosters for my 1/12 and WGT cars. To date, all 6 Novak Smart Boost's are in use and still working today w/o a single problem.
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Old 07-29-2009, 04:04 PM   #31751
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whats this body look like? anyone know? open cockpit?

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=PRM161121
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Old 07-29-2009, 04:08 PM   #31752
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While I have never tried it, I don't think grey's would work too well on asphalt. Try magenta all around. Outstanding tire.

I have run grey rears in the past, and the traction was fantastic. To bad they only lasted 3 races though.


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Old 07-29-2009, 04:18 PM   #31753
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Yeah that's what I figured. While I have never tried greys, I know that type of foam usually wears quickly on asphalt.
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Old 07-29-2009, 04:46 PM   #31754
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Originally Posted by RAL View Post
whats this body look like? anyone know? open cockpit?

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=PRM161121
If this is the same "sample" body I saw on someone's car, it looks very good, more aggressive than a Speed 12, and reportedly very neutral handling. I can't recall clearly, but I believe it was a closed cockpit.
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Old 07-29-2009, 08:27 PM   #31755
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Yeah that's what I figured. While I have never tried greys, I know that type of foam usually wears quickly on asphalt.

Agreeded, I do expect the tire wear to be more with the gray than a dpl pink or a magenta, but could be usefull in low grip conditions. My local asphalt track is right next to the Off-road track and those 1/8th rides really shoot the dust all over .
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