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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-19-2009, 11:16 AM   #31711
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Default thanx

i have both there crc bodies that they offer coming with is audi somthing and another i dont remeber what it is i got the stuff at a main they only offer 2 crc bodies as far as 1 cell goes thats what i was leaning towards but i read that there slower is there a way to get them to keep up in ss 13.5 class with nimh or am i misinformed
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Old 07-19-2009, 11:19 AM   #31712
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Default lrp

lrp sxx seems good it says its setup for 1/12 sacle is there any better im putting this together over time so i can spend more unless I get inpatient then thats a different story and I usually dont win in that case
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Old 07-19-2009, 11:55 AM   #31713
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Im running a SXX and its one of the fastest cars out there. 13.5/single cell will not keep up to 13.5/4cell. When you goto single cell you have to up the motor. So if you wanted to run with the 13.5/4cell guys you need a 10.5 with your single cell.

The RS pro might be a bit better/faster but the one guy running it at my track is only a touch faster at the end of the straight. Hes running the new 40c packs too. The SXX/novak combo is very easy to setup and tune for top perfomance.

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Old 07-19-2009, 12:03 PM   #31714
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Default 1 cell lipo set up 12r5

I switched to a 1 cell lipo setup and my car wants to spin out here is my setup ..give any suggestions ..the surface is carpet..

.020 front springs

neg 1 camber

10 degree upper arm mount

6.15 caster

gold side spring

copper middle spring with 40wt oil center shock

side shock 30wt oil

Pink rear tires

purple fronts..

help me out someone..the car is spinning ...not as much as it was before I untweaked it...i cannot drive it aggressive coming in and out of corners..
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Old 07-19-2009, 01:35 PM   #31715
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Default thanx again

thanx for all your help my only question
is it legal to run a diffrent motor if you use lipo or is 13.5 class have to be 13.5 lipo or not
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Old 07-19-2009, 02:17 PM   #31716
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I think lipo will take over all classes but your club will have to determine what motors they will allow in classes run at that track.
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Old 07-19-2009, 04:17 PM   #31717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obi wun View Post
I switched to a 1 cell lipo setup and my car wants to spin out here is my setup ..give any suggestions ..the surface is carpet..

.020 front springs

neg 1 camber

10 degree upper arm mount

6.15 caster

gold side spring

copper middle spring with 40wt oil center shock

side shock 30wt oil

Pink rear tires

purple fronts..

help me out someone..the car is spinning ...not as much as it was before I untweaked it...i cannot drive it aggressive coming in and out of corners..
The couple of big things I can see are the overly stiff rear springs. Try silver or blue side springs and a gold shock spring. That will tame it down some. Could also try yellow rear tires. They lock in real good. But would try the springs first.

HTH
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Old 07-19-2009, 05:40 PM   #31718
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Default nimh for now

im gonna run nimh for now but get a good charger so i can make the switch to lipo when everyone does without investing in another charger , till then nimh and brushless so there is no risk of showing up somewhere and being behind due to batt
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Old 07-19-2009, 07:47 PM   #31719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obi wun View Post
I switched to a 1 cell lipo setup and my car wants to spin out here is my setup ..give any suggestions ..the surface is carpet..

.020 front springs

neg 1 camber

10 degree upper arm mount

6.15 caster

gold side spring

copper middle spring with 40wt oil center shock

side shock 30wt oil

Pink rear tires

purple fronts..

help me out someone..the car is spinning ...not as much as it was before I untweaked it...i cannot drive it aggressive coming in and out of corners..
Here is the setup many of us run at our club racing against one of best 1/12 racers out there.

Front Spring = .018" springs (.020" will take steering away with 1s LiPo)
Camber = 1.5-deg (adjust according to tire wear)
Caster = 5 to 8 deg (higher if more corner speed is needed)
Side Spring = Blue or White depending on grip (blue for higher grip carpet)
Middle Spring = Blue (12lb) or Gold (14lb). Most of us run Blue, Copper (16lb) is way too stiff.
Side Damper Tubes (not shocks) = 5000wt buggy oil (very thick stuff)
Yellow Rear Tires
Double Pink Front Tires (purple just won't provide enough side bite, especially when using Yellow Rears)
Ride Height = 3.0mm to 3.5mm front, middle equal or .5mm less than front, 3.5mm to 4.0mm Rear.
Pod Droop = 1.0mm to 2.0mm
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Old 07-21-2009, 05:48 AM   #31720
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Hey there guys, just have a question reguardig lipos in 1/12. Will I have to run a receiver pack to keep voltage throughout the 8 min run? Not sure if speedo matters but I will be running the tekin rs and Fantom lipo. Any help would be wonderfull. Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-21-2009, 06:46 AM   #31721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIITA View Post
Hey there guys, just have a question reguardig lipos in 1/12. Will I have to run a receiver pack to keep voltage throughout the 8 min run? Not sure if speedo matters but I will be running the tekin rs and Fantom lipo. Any help would be wonderfull. Thanks in advance.
With the Tekin RS and the lastest software, the Speedo will run correctly at 1s voltages, but the servo will feel sluggish as you pass 3-4 minutes race time. Also, your receiver signal and transponder signal will be a little weaker at lower voltages.

I highly recommend a booster (Novak for example) or a receiver battery. The booster circuit connect to the Positive and Negative on the speed control where the battery plugs in, takes that voltage and boosts it to 6.0v. This is the safest and easiest method. The problem with a small LiPo receiver battery is the 7.4v to 8.4v it provides directly to the equipment. Most are not rated over 6v, and sustained high input voltages could eventually kill some servo's or receivers or transponders. If you use a battery, I suggest a small LiPo battery regulator to keep the voltage at 6v. Several companies make then, including Novak, MuchMore, and Losi.
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Old 07-21-2009, 07:41 AM   #31722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIITA View Post
Hey there guys, just have a question reguardig lipos in 1/12. Will I have to run a receiver pack to keep voltage throughout the 8 min run? Not sure if speedo matters but I will be running the tekin rs and Fantom lipo. Any help would be wonderfull. Thanks in advance.
John,

I would also recommend the Novak, or TQ booster. From what I hear the TQ is a bit smaller but I have never seen one so I'm not 100% on that and I personally run the Novak. Someone at the track was clowning me for running it telling me it was like the Ronco oven, just set it and forget it.

There's no worries on charging, just wire it up to your ESC and plug it into your receiver and your golden.
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Old 07-21-2009, 12:03 PM   #31723
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Default capasitors?

Ive seen people with 4 or 5 what I belive to be capasitors wired together on there cars is that like a homeaid voltage booster they were runing them with nimh
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Old 07-21-2009, 12:17 PM   #31724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIITA View Post
Hey there guys, just have a question reguardig lipos in 1/12. Will I have to run a receiver pack to keep voltage throughout the 8 min run? Not sure if speedo matters but I will be running the tekin rs and Fantom lipo. Any help would be wonderfull. Thanks in advance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
John,

I would also recommend the Novak, or TQ booster. From what I hear the TQ is a bit smaller but I have never seen one so I'm not 100% on that and I personally run the Novak. Someone at the track was clowning me for running it telling me it was like the Ronco oven, just set it and forget it.

There's no worries on charging, just wire it up to your ESC and plug it into your receiver and your golden.
John, here is a pic of the TQ booster wired up to my RS, sorry not the cleanest wire job but hopefully you get the idea. The booster is the small white thing next to the receiver. Its really easy to wire up and works great
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Old 07-21-2009, 12:50 PM   #31725
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[QUOTE=chris moore;6096318]John, here is a pic of the TQ booster wired up to my RS, sorry not the cleanest wire job but hopefully you get the idea. The booster is the small white thing next to the receiver. Its really easy to wire up and works great

Awesome, thank a lot. I will have to pick one of those up. Is it pretty self explanatory on how to wire it up? And where is the best place to buy one from? Once again thanks for the help guys.

Last edited by WIITA; 07-21-2009 at 01:09 PM.
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