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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-06-2009, 03:00 AM   #31666
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Default XII

Hi , need some advise from the proz.
How can I get droop from my front Xray XII suspensions? I need more on power steering what must I do. What Does the amount of grease in my damper change on the car?
Now for the T bar what does the front two screws change .. the amount they are screwed into the T bar, touching the chassis?

And any news when those tyre warmers for 12th will be out... they were first seen at the 12th worlds last year
Thanks
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Old 07-06-2009, 10:40 AM   #31667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OOGAB00GA View Post
So as of now it would be useless to purchase a 19t brushed motor because the superstock class is changing to brushless only?
In your opinions what would be a better buy? I can get my hands on a Ko Propo VFS-2000 ESC for 60 dollars from a buddie at the track and then suit it with a Team Brood 19t Atlas Blue Pro Tuned motor (40 USD) or should i go with an Associated Eraser Brushless Digital 13.5t Motor system for around 140 USD? Iam fairly new to carpet racing and plan on putting one of these systems in a SpeedMerchant Rev 4 and eventually start racing locally.
Thanks again for all the help, you guys are the best
You have a PM...I have exactly what you want for sale...Rev 4.5 both brushed and brushless. Both Built by Mike Odonell.
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Old 07-09-2009, 01:00 AM   #31668
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Default Andy Griffiths' New V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 2.0

Andy Griffiths has sent me a few photos of his new V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 2.0. I've put them in the gallery at www.carsrcracing.co.uk for everyone to see. Click here to go straight to the album.

Trev
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Old 07-09-2009, 09:13 AM   #31669
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Default

Come to ask for some help guys and gals.

Converting over to brushless on a 12L5 and Gen-X 1/12 scale in a 17.5 cell running lipo's.

What is the difference in roll out for the brushless motors now?

Any charts out there?

Any help would be great along with any set-ups. I am new to the 12L5 suspension on the rear and have to learn the finer points.

Thanks
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Old 07-09-2009, 11:21 AM   #31670
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i need a 13.5 1 cell lipo rollout for a 150' pavement track with a spx anybody got an idea where to start? bloody 4cell 17.5 gear isn't even close
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Old 07-09-2009, 12:24 PM   #31671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nashrcracer View Post
i need a 13.5 1 cell lipo rollout for a 150' pavement track with a spx anybody got an idea where to start? bloody 4cell 17.5 gear isn't even close
I have been running an 84mm rollout with a 110' backstraight on SPX Profile 7 on 1-cell. Others at my track have been down below 80mm, but I think this depends on the motor, motor timing, and speed control settings.

For that extra 40-feet your track has, I would start at 90mm and go up or down based on laptimes, not temperature. As long as the temps are below 170F, change gearing based on laptimes. We have been finding that lower rollouts keeps the motor cooler and more consistent from the start to end of the race.
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:29 AM   #31672
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Default Steering

Hey guys,
got problem of adjusting my steering on my 12th. Its becoming a real nighmare...
Is there a way of making it simple since I havent got a setup system for my car. Waiting for the Hudy one to be available.
I have a XII and using a futaba 9650. I had my St trim to R16 and now when I set it its more going to R32!!!
When I change my front tyres I have to do the steering again. Is that normal?
Thanks
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Old 07-12-2009, 01:22 AM   #31673
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Default Bodies

Can anyone recommend a good body for a high speed low / medium grip outdoor asphalt track?
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Old 07-12-2009, 07:21 AM   #31674
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Speed 8HD, Speed 12, Zytec
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Old 07-12-2009, 10:07 AM   #31675
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Default ???

Hi all,
i have just started 1/12 pan car class and i see there are a few 1 cell (3.7v) lipos available with more to come. ROAR has made this a class and i guess AARCMCC will soon follow.
My question is.
Are there any 1 cell speed controls available already. i heard of lots of companies talking about releasing one but does anyone know if anyone actually has. i'm just about to buy a speedy so i thought i'd check rather than buying a Novak smartboost for a standard ESC.

thanks
Alex
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Old 07-12-2009, 03:32 PM   #31676
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Originally Posted by HaraR40 View Post
Hi all,
i have just started 1/12 pan car class and i see there are a few 1 cell (3.7v) lipos available with more to come. ROAR has made this a class and i guess AARCMCC will soon follow.
My question is.
Are there any 1 cell speed controls available already. i heard of lots of companies talking about releasing one but does anyone know if anyone actually has. i'm just about to buy a speedy so i thought i'd check rather than buying a Novak smartboost for a standard ESC.

thanks
Alex
I think you misunderstand why a booster is used. It is not necessarily due to the function of the ESC, as several ESC's work fine with the 3.7-4.2v from the 1s LiPo's. The Boosters primary function is to provide 6.0v to the Servo, Transponder, and Receiver, as most of these items don't work as expected at 1s LiPo voltages, especially the servo.
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Old 07-12-2009, 05:09 PM   #31677
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Originally Posted by HaraR40 View Post
Hi all,
i have just started 1/12 pan car class and i see there are a few 1 cell (3.7v) lipos available with more to come. ROAR has made this a class and i guess AARCMCC will soon follow.
My question is.
Are there any 1 cell speed controls available already. i heard of lots of companies talking about releasing one but does anyone know if anyone actually has. i'm just about to buy a speedy so i thought i'd check rather than buying a Novak smartboost for a standard ESC.

thanks
Alex
As of right now there are not any 1cell spec speedos. The speed passion and GTB 4cell are the only two that I know of that will run with no booster or rx pack. Albeit the GTB is slower then any of the speedos I have tried. The LRP's need a booster or rx pack to keep the radio priority circuit from cutting power to the motor. The exception is the spx that doesnt run very well with 1 cell lipo no matter what I did. Im running the sxx right now and really like it but if I had to buy a new speedo it would be the Tekin RS. As far as I know it needs a booster also.

HTH
DK
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Old 07-12-2009, 05:46 PM   #31678
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Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
The exception is the spx that doesnt run very well with 1 cell lipo no matter what I did. Im running the sxx right now and really like it but if I had to buy a new speedo it would be the Tekin RS. As far as I know it needs a booster also.

HTH
DK
Hmmm, it took me a while to get the SPX working good, but working good it does. Yes, it requires the Novak booster or receiver battery. I don't use any Auto or Initial brake, and use profile 7. As for gearing, I run an 83mm rollout in 1/12 13.5 1s LiPo.
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Old 07-12-2009, 07:48 PM   #31679
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Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
As of right now there are not any 1cell spec speedos. The speed passion and GTB 4cell are the only two that I know of that will run with no booster or rx pack. Albeit the GTB is slower then any of the speedos I have tried. The LRP's need a booster or rx pack to keep the radio priority circuit from cutting power to the motor. The exception is the spx that doesnt run very well with 1 cell lipo no matter what I did. Im running the sxx right now and really like it but if I had to buy a new speedo it would be the Tekin RS. As far as I know it needs a booster also.

HTH
DK

I disagee that the GTB is at all slower with a 1 cell. Maybe if you are talking in Sedans - then yes the GTB Speedo is well outclassed. But in 1/12th I strongly disagree that the GTB is anything other than still top notch. I race against LRP, and speed passion drivers, and have not seen any speed advantage with those speedo's. If anything the simplcity and efficiency of the GTB 4 cell Spread Spectrum Speedo is an advantage as there isnt a billion settings to muck with. Its like the Ronco ESC - Set it and Forget it And is light and low profile.

Just my .02$. You can score the GTB for under $100 on the Novak site still which makes it an incredible value since in these cars with 1S its every bit as good if not better than the expensive LRP and SP speedo's that require boosters to run.
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Old 07-12-2009, 10:52 PM   #31680
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Thanks to everyone for your input.
i cant wait to start 1/12. just waiting for the car to get here (hopefully this week) and then build it up.
i posted the same question about the esc's in the radio/electrics foruma and "NovakTwo" says that novak are releasing info about there new dedicated one cell havok speed controller with built in booster circuitry at the end of the month. should come out around the same time and will be priced under $100.

Just incase anyone is interested. i'm going to get a 4cell gtb for now since that is what i can get cheapest. i'll run nimh for a bit anyway since the australia rules dont support lipo's yet (not too far away i hope), then i'll do the upgrade down the track.

thanks
Alex
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