R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-01-2009, 08:07 PM   #31651
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Madsion Heights, Michigan
Posts: 173
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default Black foams

Hey guy's I've a quick question for the knowledgeable 12th scale guru's. I am just getting back into running 12th scale from a REALLLLLLLLY long hiatus and have lucked into a box full of black compound foam doughnuts. We are running at the local track the new CRC carpet and was wondering how these compared to the pinks we all seem to be running. I haven't mounted any up yet so before I did I thought I ask the question. Thanks in advance, John
mav913 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2009, 08:51 PM   #31652
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,639
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

How old are these black donuts? Todays black rubber isn't the same as the blacks from back in the nineties. If it's the new black rubber, it's a great front tire for many tracks. Doesn't work for me at the local track but does work great at others.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2009, 09:01 PM   #31653
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Madsion Heights, Michigan
Posts: 173
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

I'm not sure on the age of them but they appear to be in really good condition to me. No dried out by any means. If I can get my hands on a "C" scale durometer I take I should get somewhere around a 36, right? I've been rubbin through the ol fingers and I can honestly say they feel almost like the pinks I have, a little firmer than the yellow and definitely softer the the blues I have.
mav913 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2009, 09:27 PM   #31654
Tech Fanatic
 
tiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 937
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to tiko
Default

Hey fellows, this is the first time that Iím posting on this thread. I would like to know which 1/12 scale model would you guys recommend as a starter. I also would like to say that I donít want to buy a new car every time I advance in to a different class. Iím looking to get something that is good for mod as well as sportsman classes. Thanks in advance, any and all suggestions are appreciated.
tiko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2009, 10:20 PM   #31655
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 244
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

tiko---- It really depends on which avenue you would like to go...Battery way's I mean. If your looking to run NiMh I would suggest a great starter car that has low entry cost's is a Associated car(because LHS carry alot of parts). However If your looking towards the future. Consider the BMI DB12RR. Man that's a nice rig. Gonna purchase one once I get back from vacation with the family. "Hint Hint" Jason!!! Drove last year's car tonight and man that thing is on rails.
SwampDog32 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2009, 10:56 PM   #31656
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3
Default Modified Motors

Iam looking into getting a Speedmerchant Rev 4 and am fairly new to electirc pan cars. what exactly is a modified motor? what classifies a motor as modified? is there a specific turn rating that you have to have in order to be classified as mod? Thanks!
OOGAB00GA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2009, 11:33 PM   #31657
Tech Fanatic
 
tiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 937
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to tiko
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SwampDog32 View Post
tiko---- It really depends on which avenue you would like to go...Battery way's I mean. If your looking to run NiMh I would suggest a great starter car that has low entry cost's is a Associated car(because LHS carry alot of parts). However If your looking towards the future. Consider the BMI DB12RR. Man that's a nice rig. Gonna purchase one once I get back from vacation with the family. "Hint Hint" Jason!!! Drove last year's car tonight and man that thing is on rails.
Thanks for the input SWAMPDOG. I think that Lipo is the future, so yes I would lean towards a car that is going to accommodate Lipo batteries. Iíll look in to the BMI DB12RR. Thanks

Tiko
tiko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2009, 12:53 AM   #31658
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,278
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OOGAB00GA View Post
Iam looking into getting a Speedmerchant Rev 4 and am fairly new to electirc pan cars. what exactly is a modified motor? what classifies a motor as modified? is there a specific turn rating that you have to have in order to be classified as mod? Thanks!
For brushless motors, 17.5 is stock and 13.5 is super stock. Anything lower is considered modified. Anything not sensored would also be classified as modified.

For brushed motors, 27T is stock and 19T is super stock. Anything lower then that is modified.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | Venom | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 3.0, TLR 22SCT 2.0, TLR 22-4 2.0, TLR Ten-SCTE 3.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2009, 07:50 AM   #31659
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3
Default Modified Motors

Thanks Casper,
Iam still a little bit confused as what the modified class is...Are you allowed to run any turn rating in a modified class as long as its below 19t? Or do they restrict you to using say a 12t modified?
OOGAB00GA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2009, 08:08 AM   #31660
Tech Elite
 
theisgroup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,191
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OOGAB00GA View Post
Thanks Casper,
Iam still a little bit confused as what the modified class is...Are you allowed to run any turn rating in a modified class as long as its below 19t? Or do they restrict you to using say a 12t modified?
in the US we have stock(17.5 brushless/27 brushed), superstock (13.5brushless/19brushed). all other motors are considered modified.
__________________
yang lai

Team Tamale | Team Tekin | RCAmerica | Speedmerchant | Speedzone RC | EA Motorsports | Ko Propo USA | eXpress Motorsports | Parma/PSE
theisgroup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2009, 08:53 AM   #31661
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,278
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

I am not aware of any classes that restrict motors in modified anymore. Basically in modified you can run ANY motor you want. You can run a 6T brushed motor or a 3.5 BL motor. What ever you feel you can hang on to.

You can even run stock motors in modified if you want to. I run my 13.5 in mod truck all the time. The track is tight enough, more motor is not always better (for me at least).

If you run the spec classes you are limited to the motor you can run. Modified is open motor rules. (size and construction are the only limits. Not wind)
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | Venom | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 3.0, TLR 22SCT 2.0, TLR 22-4 2.0, TLR Ten-SCTE 3.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2009, 08:56 AM   #31662
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 1,052
Trader Rating: 16 (94%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OOGAB00GA View Post
I am still a little bit confused as what the modified class is...Are you allowed to run any turn rating in a modified class as long as its below 19t? Or do they restrict you to using say a 12t modified?
To be blunt, chances are that if you are not "clear" what modified racing is, than you need to be racing stock or superstock at your local club or race events to get your feet wet first.

As Yang (theisgroup) stated, by definition of ROAR rules in the USA (www.roarracing.com), they classify Stock as 27T Brushed or 17.5 Brushless, SuperStock as 19T Brushed or 13.5 Brushless. Any motor winding lower than these is considered a modified motor.

If you race in a modified class, you will be using pretty much the fastest motor you can control for the track conditions. Modified usually means "Open", but the actual rules/limitations of "Modified" are set by the race director of the track or event, or by ROAR rules if the race event is organized by ROAR.
__________________
KSN
kn7671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2009, 10:29 AM   #31663
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,278
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Actually as of 2009 Super stock is 13.5BL motors only. You cannot run a brushed motor in super stock for a ROAR sanctioned event.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | Venom | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 3.0, TLR 22SCT 2.0, TLR 22-4 2.0, TLR Ten-SCTE 3.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2009, 12:14 PM   #31664
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3
Default Modified Motors

So as of now it would be useless to purchase a 19t brushed motor because the superstock class is changing to brushless only?
In your opinions what would be a better buy? I can get my hands on a Ko Propo VFS-2000 ESC for 60 dollars from a buddie at the track and then suit it with a Team Brood 19t Atlas Blue Pro Tuned motor (40 USD) or should i go with an Associated Eraser Brushless Digital 13.5t Motor system for around 140 USD? Iam fairly new to carpet racing and plan on putting one of these systems in a SpeedMerchant Rev 4 and eventually start racing locally.
Thanks again for all the help, you guys are the best
OOGAB00GA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2009, 07:05 PM   #31665
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 1,052
Trader Rating: 16 (94%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OOGAB00GA View Post
So as of now it would be useless to purchase a 19t brushed motor because the superstock class is changing to brushless only?
If you're going to be racing at a local club, don't buy a 19T Brushed motor and ESC. Talk to the guys at the club and find out what they are running for motor and ESC.


Quote:
Originally Posted by OOGAB00GA View Post
In your opinions what would be a better buy? I can get my hands on a Ko Propo VFS-2000 ESC for 60 dollars from a buddie at the track and then suit it with a Team Brood 19t Atlas Blue Pro Tuned motor (40 USD) or should i go with an Associated Eraser Brushless Digital 13.5t Motor system for around 140 USD? Iam fairly new to carpet racing and plan on putting one of these systems in a SpeedMerchant Rev 4 and eventually start racing locally.
Thanks again for all the help, you guys are the best
The LRP/Associated Eraser combo is a good initial system, BUT, the height of the ESC's heatsink will probably be a problem for most 1/12 scale bodies, as the bodies sit pretty low to the the equipment, and to get your car working properly, you need the body pretty low. Additionally, that ESC is on the large and heavy side, making it a very tight fit for all your equipment. If you are on a budget, I would ask the guys at the club your running at if they have an ESC for sale that will work with 1/12 scale, or look here on RCTech for a used one.
__________________
KSN
kn7671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:15 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0