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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-12-2003, 06:38 PM   #3151
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What is the "V-Force" front end? What company is going to make it and what is different about it from the dynamic strut or old style front ends?

What do these front suspension shims do? http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=1099 . Do they adjust caster, camber, or ride height? I can't find any information on them. If I can't find any shim kits to adjust caster with could I use a piece of paper or cardboard to adjust caster? I would just put a piece of paper under the front or back of the suspension mounts right? How many MM's of shims would I need to get 2 of caster?
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Old 06-12-2003, 07:13 PM   #3152
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I have never run a 1/12, I hardly know anything about them. I was just wondering what car(s) are condsidered the top competitors(for road courses). I have run touring cars for a while, and I just love watching those little cars tear up a road course.
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Old 06-12-2003, 07:27 PM   #3153
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Check out the speedmerchant Rev. 3, if you re-read the past like 3 pages you will find out why (i would type it again, however i end up doing it ever few pages so i am kinda getting sick of it, lol)

racerdx- its speedmerchant new front end, check it out on their website, www.teamspeedmerchant.com. i am not sure 100% about why it works, however i have seen speedmerchant drivers (including DavidL) testing it at my local track over the past season and i have been very impressed by it. it also works on any other car that is compatable with the dynamic strut or old style front end. however it is completly different than anything else out there right now.
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Old 06-12-2003, 07:40 PM   #3154
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Sounds pretty cool, I'll go check it out..........
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Old 06-12-2003, 08:12 PM   #3155
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The Track,RCO or wherever/whenever I can get to it.
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Old 06-12-2003, 09:58 PM   #3156
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Impact - you have PM
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Old 06-12-2003, 10:35 PM   #3157
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
I have never run a 1/12, I hardly know anything about them. I was just wondering what car(s) are condsidered the top competitors(for road courses). I have run touring cars for a while, and I just love watching those little cars tear up a road course.
The Rev. 3, Carpet Knife, 6 pack, 12L3, switchblade, and corally are some of the cars I've heard can be pretty competitive.
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Old 06-12-2003, 10:47 PM   #3158
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Default adjusting ride height?

How do you adjust the ride height on a 1/12 car? I've seen ride height shim kits, do you use those on the front or rear, or both? I've also seen rear bearing carrier things (not sure what the correct name is for them) that have the hole for the bearing at different heights, are those the only way to adjust the rear ride height or can you use the shims too? For the front suspension I'm guessing that the shims go between the chassis and front suspension mounts. But than when ever you adjusted the front ride height than you would also have to adjust the camber and caster again, if I have the correct way of adjusting the front ride height. Can you adjust the rear ride height with the preload on the center spring? Say if your ride height was too high than you could back the shock coller off or remove some plastic clips and than the rear end would be lowered? Would that work? Should I order a ride height shim kit, or two? How many should I get? Also, should I get some of the rear ride height adjusters? Would the ones for the 12L3 or the Rev. 3 work on the Carpet Knife?
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Old 06-13-2003, 05:17 AM   #3159
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Front ride height: Your Carpet knife comes with 4 aluminum kind of thick washers. These go between the chasis and front lower A arms.

YES you have to reset camber and Toe when you change ride height.

Rear: Those bearing holders come with the CK. use the one that gives 1/8 or a little more in the back. I think the one with the hole in the center works with new tires.

Adjusting rear ride height with the shock will only screw up handeling. Set it for .5 to 1 mm pod droop. Your car has to set into the sespension. That is all. The only other shock adjustment would be to change the spring. Your car should sit with the pod level to the Chasis fully loaded.
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Old 06-13-2003, 06:35 AM   #3160
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racerdx - The rear ride height should only be adjusted with the bearing carriers to raise or lower the rear axle in the pod plates.

I used some .020 and .030 thick lexan to make shims for the front. Associated 0 degree castor shims are .060. I use combinations of those thicknesses to get an acceptable ride height for the front and then match the rear to it. I don't re-adjust the castor or camber when using these shims. Toe-in is re-adjusted after making a change to the front.

I just cut the lexan to the same outline as the 0 degree shims and put holes in the same location. I slot the holes for easy insertion or removal. That is so I do not have to fully remove the mounting screws of the suspension. Good luck.
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Old 06-13-2003, 12:26 PM   #3161
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How often do you have to readjust the front and rear ride height? It seems like it might stink to have to re-adjust the front camber every time you change the ride height. Oh well, it looks like the V Force front end will be nice, it also looks like it has adjustable front camber with some tie rods . Is the caster still adjusted with the shims or does it have another way? I guess that's kinda a stupid question to ask because no one really has it...............
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Old 06-13-2003, 12:49 PM   #3162
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Yes, you have to use shims to adjust caster, but this won't be a problem.... personally I use the Associated 2deg. shims and leave it there....
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Old 06-13-2003, 12:59 PM   #3163
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That doesn't sound too bad. I can't wait for that to come out, is it really going to come out this summer? Because Associated said the Monster GT would be in production by this spring and to my knowlege it's still not in production. Although to get the V Force front end in production is pretty simple compared to a new nitro monster truck.
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Old 06-13-2003, 04:18 PM   #3164
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I have the V-Force front suspension by Speedmerchant. I used it in the first 2 qualifiers in the Orion race at The Track last March. You use the shims I described to set castor on that suspension. You set the camber with the links on the top of the cantilevers. The V-Force has a lot of camber gain with small movements of the suspension. Therefore, the linkage has to be perfect to control bump steer. This is not an easy task. It may be too difficult for the unexperienced driver. Speedmerchant has not officially announced a release date for production units. Mine is a prototype.
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Old 06-13-2003, 06:52 PM   #3165
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OHHHH ...... I thought Speedmerchant had just taken the arm and turned it into a c-hub which had the same kingpin/ steering block set-up as the old style front end.... which should have no chamber gain.
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