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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-24-2009, 09:06 AM   #31621
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Yes you can use the precision ride height adjusters. I would say you could go down to the rims but not sure how low you can run your car at your track. I am using the 4's with some cut down tires and my ride height is between 4-4.5 so I feel pretty confident you could get all the ride height you need with the blocks for gross changes and the precision adjusters for fine tuning.
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Old 06-24-2009, 09:29 AM   #31622
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This maybe a stupid question. But what is the best way to determine where to drill your holes on a body that's been painted? I've got one that I'd like to mount up. But I want to make sure the holes are pretty darn close. Any advice? I know I've done it in the past. Just looking for maybe an eaiser way. Thanks.
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Old 06-24-2009, 09:35 AM   #31623
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You can use a little bit of paint to do this. Put some wet paint on the body posts and then carefuly line up the body on the car and push down. The wet paint will transfer dots on the body where to drill. You can use a marker as well but the ink will dry much faster.

White out would work well for this as well.

I marked the body posts on the clear body first. Used a sharpie and marked the overspray film. Even if the body does not have over spray film you will be drilling out the markes or you can get sharpie off lexan with rubbing alcohol.
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Old 06-24-2009, 09:44 AM   #31624
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Default Setup Trouble

Is there any guide on how to setup the Serpent S120 ?

I'm new at Electric On-Road cars and having real trouble finding the right setup for my car. I was hoping if you guys can direct me to a guide that explains to me the trick to setup my car for any track.

Thanks
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Old 06-24-2009, 09:46 AM   #31625
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I need some help with dampener tube lubes. The set ups I see list 5000 wieght diff lube or Shurlube. I have the CRC stuff. Which Shurlube and CRC lube compares to 5000 weight diff lude? Which is better Shurlube or the CRC stuff?
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Old 06-24-2009, 09:56 AM   #31626
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Casper--Thanks for the advice. That's what I have planned to do. I was sure if there was a device that made it a little easier.....Cause I've got an idea on one.(At least for 12th scale's) Maybe more.
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:55 AM   #31627
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I think it was trinity who used to make some pointy cone things you would screw on to the top of the body posts that you could then push down on them to "dimple" the body in the right spots. I am sure they were not cheap though and there are other ways of doing this. Like I said if you were to mark them before you paint is the easiest way but if you buy a prepainted body this is not always the option.
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:59 AM   #31628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan C Munoz View Post
Is there any guide on how to setup the Serpent S120 ?

I'm new at Electric On-Road cars and having real trouble finding the right setup for my car. I was hoping if you guys can direct me to a guide that explains to me the trick to setup my car for any track.

Thanks
There is no one setup that works for every track, the setup can change for the same track if the traction level changes from meet to meet. If you go to the Serpent site there are a few setups posted there and also on the S120 thread here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SwampDog32 View Post
Casper--Thanks for the advice. That's what I have planned to do. I was sure if there was a device that made it a little easier.....Cause I've got an idea on one.(At least for 12th scale's) Maybe more.
I think Trinity did or does make a pointed tool that went on the posts. When you'd push down on the body it would dimple the body to mark the place to drill. Not sure if those are still around or not.
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Old 06-24-2009, 11:45 AM   #31629
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could not find on trinity site, but http://www.ehobbies.com/tri30003.html
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Old 06-24-2009, 02:09 PM   #31630
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My tires are down to 41mm with a 3mm spacer gets me to 4.0 mm

Is this about the lowest I can go?

Track allows 3.5mm

Thanks
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Old 06-24-2009, 03:47 PM   #31631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinkrat99 View Post
My tires are down to 41mm with a 3mm spacer gets me to 4.0 mm

Is this about the lowest I can go?

Track allows 3.5mm

Thanks
As long as you have foam on the rim you can go as low as you want or the track allows, jst remember to change your gearing to match your rollout.
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Old 06-24-2009, 07:43 PM   #31632
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Chris,

Is there any way to get a lower ride height if the 3mm adjuster is deemed too large to get a ride height? I would think 41mm is failr y close to the death of the tire.
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Old 06-24-2009, 08:01 PM   #31633
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Yea at 41mm you are getting close. You can take the 3mm spacer out but you will need to use a 2mm washer for each screw. By taking out the spacer you lose some strength in that lower arm and if you take a hard hit to the front its very easy to bend the screws and tweak the car. By using a small thin 2mm washer between the lower arm and the chassis at each screw you add back some strength to the lower arm. I found some at a local Ace hardware store.
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Old 06-25-2009, 01:54 AM   #31634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khador12 View Post
I need some help with dampener tube lubes. The set ups I see list 5000 wieght diff lube or Shurlube. I have the CRC stuff. Which Shurlube and CRC lube compares to 5000 weight diff lude? Which is better Shurlube or the CRC stuff?
I donīt know wich is better, but i use Mugen 5000wt diff lube, and is very similar to CRC white cap lube, (kit supplied), for me work similar in track.

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 06-25-2009, 04:32 PM   #31635
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I am now in the difficult task of changing the car, took a few years running with
CRC, and I want to change, i am undecided between these 2 models, BMI db12rr or Speedmerchant rev5, both are very similar to my GEN-X, i like the design of the BMI, but the Speedmerchant are very interesting, too, but i donīt can buy the 2 cars.
I would like to hear views from both pros and cons, etc...
I race in asphalt, low grip tracks, some time in carpet, but rarely.

Thanks in advance, Luis C.
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