R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-08-2009, 01:11 PM   #31561
Tech Master
 
David Galdo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Euless, TX
Posts: 1,652
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to David Galdo Send a message via AIM to David Galdo Send a message via MSN to David Galdo Send a message via Yahoo to David Galdo
Default

I can't imagine using anything smaller than a 350mah RX pack. Should be able to get two runs out of it before a noticeable glitch is seen while racing. Bonus I feel is, the car comes to a crawl when the RX pack is low. Don't need to buy a high dollar charger either.
__________________
Hot Bodies | HPI Racing | HPI TV | Speedzone USA | Team Epic | Trinity | TRC
V-Dezign 4.0
David Galdo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 01:46 PM   #31562
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 1,052
Trader Rating: 16 (94%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo View Post
I can't imagine using anything smaller than a 350mah RX pack. Should be able to get two runs out of it before a noticeable glitch is seen while racing. Bonus I feel is, the car comes to a crawl when the RX pack is low. Don't need to buy a high dollar charger either.
I'm using 150mAh LiPo receiver batteries, good for 2-races, than 45-min on the charger. 350mAh should be enough to last the entire day w/o recharge unless using diode's to drop the voltage is causing other issues.
__________________
KSN
kn7671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 01:49 PM   #31563
Tech Master
 
timmay70's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,702
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup View Post
will do, I will snap some pics of dumas's car. it was a work of art, until he started running it. mine is ok, but I have a hugh 380mah rx pack.
The car at the bottom of this page is Bruce's car. Mike's car looked just like it before it was shipped. Really neat layout, and that is including the new spektrum Rx and the Novak booster...

http://p1brand.blogspot.com/2009/06/...rev5-lipo.html
__________________
Speed Merchant Rev7, Tekin, TQ Racing (wire), Team Tamale
RC Excitement - Buy where you race, support your local tracks.
ROAR #105242
timmay70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 01:53 PM   #31564
Tech Master
 
David Galdo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Euless, TX
Posts: 1,652
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to David Galdo Send a message via AIM to David Galdo Send a message via MSN to David Galdo Send a message via Yahoo to David Galdo
Default

Last time I saw Dumas' car he had a RX pack smaller than the booster pictured.
__________________
Hot Bodies | HPI Racing | HPI TV | Speedzone USA | Team Epic | Trinity | TRC
V-Dezign 4.0
David Galdo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 02:06 PM   #31565
Tech Master
 
David Galdo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Euless, TX
Posts: 1,652
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to David Galdo Send a message via AIM to David Galdo Send a message via MSN to David Galdo Send a message via Yahoo to David Galdo
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kn7671 View Post
I'm using 150mAh LiPo receiver batteries, good for 2-races, than 45-min on the charger. 350mAh should be enough to last the entire day w/o recharge unless using diode's to drop the voltage is causing other issues.
The diodes are not causing 'issues' other than limiting me to the same or better number of runs you get with your RX pack. I honestly can get 6 runs on one 30 min charge. But to be safe I charge after two or three runs. Better to have it charged and not need to than not having charged it and not finish a race...
__________________
Hot Bodies | HPI Racing | HPI TV | Speedzone USA | Team Epic | Trinity | TRC
V-Dezign 4.0
David Galdo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 07:49 PM   #31566
Tech Master
 
timmay70's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,702
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Well, Dave... I can only attest to how the car left after it was built. But, then again, that is what testing is for. I think I would be more disappointed if MD was not trying different things..

I, too, have run both the Novak booster, and the Losi micro-t lipo pack as a Rx pack. Each time I recharged right after a run, I think that I only put approx 85mah back in. The battery is somewhere around 145mah. My electrics are Ko 2.4ghz Rx, JR3650 servo, and Tekin ESC...

In my testing, it seemed at first that the Rx was the winner. However, we have been pushing the booster and trying different things. I think that the end result MAY be switched to negligible. Which means that at a big event I will be tempted to run a Rx pack.
__________________
Speed Merchant Rev7, Tekin, TQ Racing (wire), Team Tamale
RC Excitement - Buy where you race, support your local tracks.
ROAR #105242
timmay70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 08:06 PM   #31567
Tech Elite
 
theisgroup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,191
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70 View Post
The car at the bottom of this page is Bruce's car. Mike's car looked just like it before it was shipped. Really neat layout, and that is including the new spektrum Rx and the Novak booster...

http://p1brand.blogspot.com/2009/06/...rev5-lipo.html
thanks man, save me some time. and I am one lazy bastard.

adam, that is basically the configuration you need if you are going to run a booster. if you run a rx pack, i can shoot you a pic of mine. one note on rx packs. make sure your electronics can handle it. I run the KO brand and Robert said the ko 2.4 can take 2s lipo and manages the voltage to the servo and speedo. i run the speedo in the off position. i have heard that the futaba stuff is not warranteed at 2s, but many are running the 9650 servo without any probs. you could always send your electronics to bruce. he is a wizard mounting the electronics and wiring. i hear OD might know a thing or 2 about that as well.
__________________
yang lai

Team Tamale | Team Tekin | RCAmerica | Speedmerchant | Speedzone RC | EA Motorsports | Ko Propo USA | eXpress Motorsports | Parma/PSE
theisgroup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 08:08 PM   #31568
Tech Master
 
David Galdo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Euless, TX
Posts: 1,652
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to David Galdo Send a message via AIM to David Galdo Send a message via MSN to David Galdo Send a message via Yahoo to David Galdo
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70 View Post
Well, Dave... I can only attest to how the car left after it was built. But, then again, that is what testing is for. I think I would be more disappointed if MD was not trying different things..

I, too, have run both the Novak booster, and the Losi micro-t lipo pack as a Rx pack. Each time I recharged right after a run, I think that I only put approx 85mah back in. The battery is somewhere around 145mah. My electrics are Ko 2.4ghz Rx, JR3650 servo, and Tekin ESC...

In my testing, it seemed at first that the Rx was the winner. However, we have been pushing the booster and trying different things. I think that the end result MAY be switched to negligible. Which means that at a big event I will be tempted to run a Rx pack.
Not challenging your statement, simply posting that he runs a RX pack which is two e-Flight packs. Much smaller package than the booster pictured.
__________________
Hot Bodies | HPI Racing | HPI TV | Speedzone USA | Team Epic | Trinity | TRC
V-Dezign 4.0
David Galdo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 08:13 PM   #31569
Tech Master
 
David Galdo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Euless, TX
Posts: 1,652
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to David Galdo Send a message via AIM to David Galdo Send a message via MSN to David Galdo Send a message via Yahoo to David Galdo
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup View Post
I run the KO brand and Robert said the ko 2.4 can take 2s lipo and manages the voltage to the servo and speedo. i run the speedo in the off position. i have heard that the futaba stuff is not warranteed at 2s, but many are running the 9650 servo without any probs.
That is why I went the diode route, a tiny implementation than some bulky regulator. I should be safe with one diode... I can't recall where I was reading 7.8 was a peak for some Futaba gear.
__________________
Hot Bodies | HPI Racing | HPI TV | Speedzone USA | Team Epic | Trinity | TRC
V-Dezign 4.0
David Galdo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2009, 07:56 AM   #31570
Tech Champion
 
abailey21's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 5,150
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

What length sensor wires are most of you guys using?

I want a clean look so I don't need like a 250mm but is 180mm long enough for most guys?
__________________
K.C.C.O.
abailey21 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2009, 08:03 AM   #31571
Tech Elite
 
theisgroup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,191
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
What length sensor wires are most of you guys using?

I want a clean look so I don't need like a 250mm but is 180mm long enough for most guys?
depends on where your sensor connection will be on the chassis. with the sensor connetion on the outside of the rev 5l i have been able to run the short tq sensor wire. I think it is a 90mm. with the sensor plug at the antenna, I am running a 125mm sensor wire
__________________
yang lai

Team Tamale | Team Tekin | RCAmerica | Speedmerchant | Speedzone RC | EA Motorsports | Ko Propo USA | eXpress Motorsports | Parma/PSE
theisgroup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2009, 08:24 AM   #31572
Tech Adept
 
Tomesz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Poland, Europe
Posts: 123
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

yes 180mm is enough for sure
__________________
Serpent 720 09
Tomesz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2009, 08:30 AM   #31573
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,277
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

I am using 150 on my mine. It should be plenty long for just about anyone. I am basically going from the left side of the servo all the way back to the motor.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | Venom | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 3.0, TLR 22SCT 2.0, TLR 22-4 2.0, TLR Ten-SCTE 3.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2009, 09:10 AM   #31574
Tech Champion
 
abailey21's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 5,150
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Thanks kids
__________________
K.C.C.O.
abailey21 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2009, 01:01 AM   #31575
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: lost...
Posts: 2,825
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Where can I find 12th scale GTP bodies like Jaguar, Porshce 962, Nissan, etc.? Who still makes them? Mcallister makes the Buick Hawk and Intrepid bodies.

Last edited by RoyU; 06-11-2009 at 04:47 PM.
RoyU is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (1 members and 2 guests)
Mach10_shooter
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:00 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0