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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-01-2009, 09:43 AM   #31501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Oh, I forgot to ask, I am living here in the USA for a couple of years and have a question about the tyre additives used here. I bought a bottle of Paragon FX, but the some of the guys at the track are using Paragon Ground Effects. Could someone let me know the differance between them? The Ground Effects stuff seems a bit more smelly over the FX stuff but will both work equally well or should one be used over the other in certain situations? Many thanks, Chris.
I don't know the Difference between FX or GFX, I only know the FX don't work for me. I prefer the Ground Effects.

Weren't you supposed to move to the VA Beach area? If so, where are you running?
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:40 AM   #31502
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Ok super noobie question. How does one "glue" the sides of the tires to help prevent them from chunking? I have heard of this but not sure what kind of glue or if there the is a special technique to doing this.
Nothing special. Use thin CA glue on the sidewalls only. A little goes a long way. I mainly use this to stiffen up the sidewalls to prevent traction rolling on real high bite tracks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Ok one more. I hear of guys who "clean" there foams. Any special tricks to this as well. Do you always clean them after a run before you sauce again?
For foams on carpet, I use CRC Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner (The Green Can). It works great and is only a few dollars a can. No ill effects that I've ever noticed. I saw someone once soak their really small foams in cleaner (Stick-ET) and the glue actually dissolved a bit and the foam spun off the wheel at the start of a race! But we never "soak" the foam. You spray the cleaner onto a paper shop towel and then wipe down the foams.
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Old 06-01-2009, 02:10 PM   #31503
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Hello 1/12th guys , here are some drivers running with a 1/18 packs (1800-1900 mAh Lipos 7.4v) is his 1/12 cars, with 10.5T BL motors, im a bit old, and i only know, this car running with 6 cells, and lately with 4 cells, i read about 1S Lipo 3.7v, in this car,too.
But im interesting in the 1/18 packs,and how they behave in these cars, if someone has some experience in this, i would like to know something more.

Now i have a futuristic car, , Gen-X, and i would like go back to this beautifull category.

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 06-01-2009, 03:34 PM   #31504
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Nothing special. Use thin CA glue on the sidewalls only. A little goes a long way. I mainly use this to stiffen up the sidewalls to prevent traction rolling on real high bite tracks.



For foams on carpet, I use CRC Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner (The Green Can). It works great and is only a few dollars a can. No ill effects that I've ever noticed. I saw someone once soak their really small foams in cleaner (Stick-ET) and the glue actually dissolved a bit and the foam spun off the wheel at the start of a race! But we never "soak" the foam. You spray the cleaner onto a paper shop towel and then wipe down the foams.
Thanks for the response! Is there a special way to put the CA on the edge? Use an Exacto to smear it on or just put a drop on and let it roll around?

CRC brake cleaner from an Automotive store. I am assuming you don't mean Calandra Racing Concepts or do you?
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Old 06-01-2009, 04:08 PM   #31505
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Using an Exacto blade to smear it around works very well. It looks much nicer as well if you do that before you true the tires.
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Old 06-01-2009, 04:17 PM   #31506
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Quote:
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Thanks for the response! Is there a special way to put the CA on the edge? Use an Exacto to smear it on or just put a drop on and let it roll around?

CRC brake cleaner from an Automotive store. I am assuming you don't mean Calandra Racing Concepts or do you?
Put the tires on the car, then turn the car on it's side. Saturate a q-tip with thin CA, then hold the qtip stationary while turning the tire to apply the glue.
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Old 06-01-2009, 05:12 PM   #31507
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I like that tip. I will probably try both.

Thanks guys!!!!!
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:02 PM   #31508
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Thanks for the reply mate, yeah, moved to the Virginia Beach area. Practicing over at Debbies RC World at the mo as everyone is outdoors for the summer season. It does get really busy during the winter months apparently so looking forward to that!
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:25 PM   #31509
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the crew at Debbies are great. I only got to run one weekend with them, but they made me feel at home. trying to figure out how to get my company to fly me back there again.
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:34 PM   #31510
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Thanks for the reply mate, yeah, moved to the Virginia Beach area. Practicing over at Debbies RC World at the mo as everyone is outdoors for the summer season. It does get really busy during the winter months apparently so looking forward to that!
1/12th doesn't usually get kickin until it gets cold again. There are a couple off road tracks nearby and this Sunday we'll be running onroad asphalt at HobbyTown in Newport News. There won't be any 1/12th there but, if you have a TC, we'll definitely be running that. At any rate, if you're running at Debbie's, I'll see you around sooner or later. Welcome to the area.
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Old 06-02-2009, 04:37 PM   #31511
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hey folks.......

this new battery make some serious power for new 1-cell addicteds

http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/vtec-b...c-74v/details/

despite of having to buy the 7.4v saddle pack, it should worth the try as it's a 4800 40C pack.........
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Old 06-02-2009, 04:53 PM   #31512
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Will it fit though? The Saddle packs are a little different shape then the 1S packs. They tend to be taller and a little narrower from what I have seen.
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Old 06-02-2009, 06:17 PM   #31513
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Thanks again mate, the guys that I have met over there seem pretty cool. I have been over to 7 cities and will be buying a buggy to race there sometime soon. And I may be going up on Sunday with my GT10 car. I'll chat to a couple of the fella's at Debbies to see what the score is with regards to going over there on Sunday. Cheers again!!
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Old 06-02-2009, 06:51 PM   #31514
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Will it fit though? The Saddle packs are a little different shape then the 1S packs. They tend to be taller and a little narrower from what I have seen.
I think so.......it's same width as SMC, shorter, and 3.5mm taller only.......

maybe it requires shimming the shock, nothing else.......

for t-bar cars I think it will be even easier and the pack is really short
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Old 06-03-2009, 07:23 AM   #31515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SalvadoriRacing View Post
I think so.......it's same width as SMC, shorter, and 3.5mm taller only.......

maybe it requires shimming the shock, nothing else.......

for t-bar cars I think it will be even easier and the pack is really short
The only downside is the height for 12th, Roar has a max height of 18.5mm and those are 23.5mm. For club racing it should be fine, "provided it fits" and I'm sure that LiPo will be if it's not Roar approved already, but it wont work at Roar races
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