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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-21-2009, 01:18 PM   #31471
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You will have to cut down your tires for carpet. But don't worry, I have a truer you are more than welcome to use when I'm at the track.
Cool thanks. So even with the track being on the bumpy side as the boards settle you will still cut down the tires?

What compounds were you running last night?
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:48 PM   #31472
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
That would be too bad, I hope thay wait untill after the SIGP if thay do so. Did you hear any reasons for that? Its sad that the carpet track goes unused so much of the time, I'm wondering if the guys down there would run more if it was asphalt.
I don't know if it's going to happen. It was said that it'd be eaiser to take care of (clean) vacuuming the carpet is hard on the carpet and the groove. I know I'd run more if I could race my car without it coming off the carpet looking as if I'd run it in the wash behind the store If they would at least start running the dirt wet it'd be fine; that's the way it used to be. No problems with super dusty carpet.
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Old 05-21-2009, 02:05 PM   #31473
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Originally Posted by EricF View Post
I don't know if it's going to happen. It was said that it'd be eaiser to take care of (clean) vacuuming the carpet is hard on the carpet and the groove. I know I'd run more if I could race my car without it coming off the carpet looking as if I'd run it in the wash behind the store If they would at least start running the dirt wet it'd be fine; that's the way it used to be. No problems with super dusty carpet.
E
True it can be a bit dusty. The last time I went down Turd did a great job of vacuming and it was'nt dusty, but as you mentioned the groove that was so well defined after the last SIGP is totaly gone now. I guess it would be easier to just blow all the dust back over to the off-road side .
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Old 05-21-2009, 02:28 PM   #31474
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Cool thanks. So even with the track being on the bumpy side as the boards settle you will still cut down the tires?

What compounds were you running last night?
Yes, you still cut them down. You do not want a lot of sidewall flex. I was at 1.72 rears and 1.62 fronts. Ride height set to 4 mm to start. Ended the night at 3.5 mm. I ran about 5 packs. BSR XX Pinks all four corners. JTG on about 20 minutes before the first run of the day and then about 5 minutes before after that. Cleaned the tires after every run.

I was using an old set of tires that were already small. You can run the tires a bit taller to save $. When the traction gets really high is when the small sidewall really helps.
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Old 05-21-2009, 04:05 PM   #31475
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I just figured the little taller tire might be a little more suspension! Can't wait to get the car together and give this on-road stuff a whirl.
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Old 05-22-2009, 01:42 AM   #31476
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I'm reviving a little used 12L3 to race at OCRC and have a question about t-bars. This track has mostly new carpet, with some carpet previously used. Should I set up my car with the .063 or .075 t-bar? I'm planning to run 4 cell with a 8.5 brushless to start - have my lipo setup on order to run 13.5 later.

Also, this track is a little bumpy in spots. As I look for another, more current chassis, is there a difference in the way a T-bar car handles bumpiness vs a rear pivot type chassis?

Thanks to all who've contributed to this thread. It's a long one but lots of good reading.

Clay
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Old 05-22-2009, 02:02 AM   #31477
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The rule of thumb is that link cars have more rear traction/less steering and t-bar cars have less rear traction/more steering. Both will handle bumps. You'll be looking for plenty of rear grip with the 8.5/4 cell! I'd start with the .063 t-bar. Keep everything soft for now. Running a lot of grip in the rear, you'll need to make the front steer pretty aggressive.

The new chassis' are designed mainly to center the BL motors in the pod and to accommodate 2S/1S lipos. You can make the 12L work fine for now. You'll have to do a bit of shuffling with the electronics when you go 1S/13.5 to keep the balance in check.
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Old 05-22-2009, 11:42 AM   #31478
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Default TRC Granite foam shore rating

I have a bunch of TRC granite rears, but can't find info on where that color fits into the foam tire color scheme. Anyone happen to know? The color isn't shown on the Trinty/TRC website.

Clay
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Old 05-22-2009, 06:36 PM   #31479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clayrace24 View Post
I'm reviving a little used 12L3 to race at OCRC and have a question about t-bars. This track has mostly new carpet, with some carpet previously used. Should I set up my car with the .063 or .075 t-bar? I'm planning to run 4 cell with a 8.5 brushless to start - have my lipo setup on order to run 13.5 later.

Also, this track is a little bumpy in spots. As I look for another, more current chassis, is there a difference in the way a T-bar car handles bumpiness vs a rear pivot type chassis?

Thanks to all who've contributed to this thread. It's a long one but lots of good reading.

Clay
I almost always use the .075 but I run 10.5/19 turn 4 cell. With an 8.5 you may want some extra grip but I would start with the .075 and maybe leave out the center bolt for a bit more flex.
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Old 05-22-2009, 07:19 PM   #31480
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Hi guys, I normally run GRP Magenta fronts with Pink rears, but I would like to know what the low profile JACO (with the bigger rims) equilivant tyres would be. I have tried yellow rears with double pink fronts, but this gave so much steering that the rears lost grip after 3 minutes! Not good, so any advice would be appreciated! Cheers, Chris.
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Old 05-22-2009, 08:47 PM   #31481
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi guys, I normally run GRP Magenta fronts with Pink rears, but I would like to know what the low profile JACO (with the bigger rims) equilivant tyres would be. I have tried yellow rears with double pink fronts, but this gave so much steering that the rears lost grip after 3 minutes! Not good, so any advice would be appreciated! Cheers, Chris.
The rubber is the same. On tracks where the rears lose grip quickly I find Magenta rears work great. Similar grip to yellows but last the whole distance.
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Old 05-22-2009, 11:25 PM   #31482
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Default ESC recommendation for 17.5 and 13.5 motors

Seems my EZ controller won't fit under the body on my 12L3, so what are the best options today for this class racing - GTB 4 cell, Tekin R1 Pro, LRP Sphere?Other than cost difference, any reasons to pick one over the other, such as support or known issues with these motors?

Clay
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Old 05-23-2009, 12:35 AM   #31483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clayrace24 View Post
Seems my EZ controller won't fit under the body on my 12L3, so what are the best options today for this class racing - GTB 4 cell, Tekin R1 Pro, LRP Sphere?Other than cost difference, any reasons to pick one over the other, such as support or known issues with these motors?

Clay
hi Clay, this is tony, you ran my car for a few laps this afternoon. i am really impressed with the tekin RS. the ESC's size and weight, and vehicle speed and post sales support are all really good.

i don't have any recent experience with other brands, but i think i got lucky with the RS. (i usually end up replacing the first choice with a more informed choice later)
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Old 05-23-2009, 05:35 AM   #31484
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Hi peoples, i was wondering if anyone knows the best way to shim wheels on a Cyclone 12 with the standard aluminium axle installed. I have some Serpent rear tyres which are 2mm offset (they bind on the pod) and the aluminium axle doesnt shim in the same way as using a solid carbon axle
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Old 05-23-2009, 10:55 AM   #31485
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I use the carbon fibre spacers from fibre lyte for this purpose. Shim the axle so that 'normal' rims are at the correct spacing and then use the fibre lyte spacers to get 'off set' rims at the correct spacing as well. Really easy because it means you don't have to keep re-shimming the axle each time you use differant types of rims. Cheers, Chris.
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