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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-19-2009, 06:37 AM   #31381
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Novak and TQ Cells has Boosters. Here is a link for the Novak Booster, which can be purchased directly from them or your favorite LHS:

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/sm...ost/index.html

Can't help you on the Mod motor stuff, but I can say that 5000mah 1-cell packs will be available shortly.
It may depend on just HOW "mod" you're going, but running 10.5 in a 730g car with the SMC 4000 battery we were only putting about 2200 (+ or -) back into the battery after a heat.
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Old 05-19-2009, 06:39 AM   #31382
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Default traction additive application routine

Hi all,

I started racing 1/12th last winter at club level and as I look back to it I find that I could definitely do with a better traction additive application routine.
It seemed like I was always struggling to spread the additive consistently on the foam, especially on the rear tires.

So my questions are:

- What application pattern do you follow : circles or stripes? (noob inside )

- How many times do you dip the paintbrush (for example) into the container in order to do a tire?

- Sometimes the additive comes with guidance on application time (say, 20 mn).
I wonder if this includes the delay between the tire wipe off and the race start, or if it is simply the time needed for the additive to be left on the tire before wiping off?

- Do you scrub the tires on the track before you go ? If so, how do you do it?

FYI I use CS Yellow and Corally TC2

Thanks
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Old 05-19-2009, 07:11 AM   #31383
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
It may depend on just HOW "mod" you're going, but running 10.5 in a 730g car with the SMC 4000 battery we were only putting about 2200 (+ or -) back into the battery after a heat.

thanks guys for the info, we run open mod, ie any motor I personally run 4.5 Turn ..... and 8 minutes with a 4.5 is an endurance run with nimh's ! I know from running touring mod that the lipo has eliminated runtime issues but was wondering if this will do the same for 1/12th, the only concern i have is the drop in performance from the lower voltage, has anyone run a comparison between a 4 cell nimh and a 1s lipo ( in terms of lap times )?
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Old 05-19-2009, 07:41 AM   #31384
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thanks guys for the info, we run open mod, ie any motor I personally run 4.5 Turn ..... and 8 minutes with a 4.5 is an endurance run with nimh's ! I know from running touring mod that the lipo has eliminated runtime issues but was wondering if this will do the same for 1/12th, the only concern i have is the drop in performance from the lower voltage, has anyone run a comparison between a 4 cell nimh and a 1s lipo ( in terms of lap times )?
In comparison from 17.5 and 13.5 to 4-cell NiMH and 1-cell LiPo, we have been seeing about .3 seconds drop per lap. In Mod, this may not be much of an issue since you can just run a hotter motor to compensate.
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Old 05-19-2009, 07:42 AM   #31385
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12th scale racing is SA is not a big class by no means at the nationals, but when it comes to competitiveness on track, it's like a full on dog fight at the top and a spectacle to watch. I know where sageyoung and slidemaster are coming from with these questions, if they turn to lipo before the other guys do they might not be able to compete at that top level until everybody has taken the leap to lipo.

Maybe sage and slide must get together to do some testing and let us know.
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Old 05-19-2009, 07:44 AM   #31386
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It may depend on just HOW "mod" you're going, but running 10.5 in a 730g car with the SMC 4000 battery we were only putting about 2200 (+ or -) back into the battery after a heat.
That's impressive, I usually have been putting a maximum of 2200mah back in on 17.5 1/12, 2800mah on 13.5, and 2600mah on 13.5 WGT.
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Old 05-19-2009, 07:47 AM   #31387
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you will not be competative 4cell vs. lipo. no testing needed. guys that I usually run along side with, I was putting laps on this weekend. they ran lipo and 1 ran 4cell. i guarantee that winning this way is no fun. I just gotta get another lipo for my 17.5 car. the split of the class will not last long. I know the guys down there in SA.
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Old 05-19-2009, 07:59 AM   #31388
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Originally Posted by sam the man View Post
12th scale racing is SA is not a big class by no means at the nationals, but when it comes to competitiveness on track, it's like a full on dog fight at the top and a spectacle to watch. I know where sageyoung and slidemaster are coming from with these questions, if they turn to lipo before the other guys do they might not be able to compete at that top level until everybody has taken the leap to lipo.

Maybe sage and slide must get together to do some testing and let us know.
hmmmm I think I need to get a pack and try !!
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:03 AM   #31389
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Originally Posted by sam the man View Post
12th scale racing is SA is not a big class by no means at the nationals, but when it comes to competitiveness on track, it's like a full on dog fight at the top and a spectacle to watch. I know where sageyoung and slidemaster are coming from with these questions, if they turn to lipo before the other guys do they might not be able to compete at that top level until everybody has taken the leap to lipo.

Maybe sage and slide must get together to do some testing and let us know.

im leaning toward the class.... i like it and would like to get involved at the nats.... i'll let you know how things progress speed merchant style...
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:28 AM   #31390
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speed merchant style...

good choice.
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:31 AM   #31391
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I ran the same race with Scottrick, and we were compairing notes on ma back into the lipo cells. I was running right at (well one round just a little under the 700gr weight with a DUO 10.5, Tekin RS and I put back 1800 - 2200ma based on how hard I ran the car. I did TQ and won the class, so I was pushing pretty hard.

I really liked the small amount of tire wear and how "reactive" the car felt. It did not feel as you were loose on the rug, but really hooked up.

I know our club will still have 4cell, but we will use it as the starting class, with the faster racers going to the lipo option.
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Old 05-19-2009, 02:16 PM   #31392
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you will not be competative 4cell vs. lipo. no testing needed. guys that I usually run along side with, I was putting laps on this weekend. they ran lipo and 1 ran 4cell. i guarantee that winning this way is no fun. I just gotta get another lipo for my 17.5 car. the split of the class will not last long. I know the guys down there in SA.
Were thay also running 17.5 with the lipo? If so thats not even a fair comparison, if thay switch to 13.5 it will be very close but the nimh will still have a slight advange in the infield

As to the question that was posted by SlideMasterR; if your allready running a 4.5 it will be hard to "motor" up. I have'nt tried any mod motors myself but baised on my experience with spec motors, imo you will be getting lapped by the the field if your the only 1s lipo.
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Old 05-19-2009, 02:49 PM   #31393
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Were thay also running 17.5 with the lipo? If so thats not even a fair comparison, if thay switch to 13.5 it will be very close but the nimh will still have a slight advange in the infield

As to the question that was posted by SlideMasterR; if your allready running a 4.5 it will be hard to "motor" up. I have'nt tried any mod motors myself but baised on my experience with spec motors, imo you will be getting lapped by the the field if your the only 1s lipo.
you are highly mis-informed about 1s and 4 cell. kn7671 posted our race results. it may be in the vegas thread. but I ran 4 cell 17.5 and 1s 13.5. in my 4cell 17.5 car my best lap was a 15.0. i have run this car for 1+ years now and currently hold the track record for stock 1/12, the previous track record for stock 1/12 and the track record for 1/12 stock on the track before that. so I guess I am pretty consistent on our track. this was the first weekend on this track and the first weekend with my rev5lipo.

with my lipo 13.5 car, I managed a 14.7 fast lap. this is with the car running a box setup basically. so I still need to work setup. so if you think .3 seconds is close enough. lets just put that in perspective. at the end of an 8min race that is 9.6 seconds. that would basically put me another lap up. that would have put me less then a lap behind dumas. I guarantee that I am not that fast.

now in comparison. AWD managed a 15.2 with his 1s 17.5 car. that is just .2 slower then my fast lap with 4cell. he and I are real close as far as speed. and he has been practicing a little more on this track. this weekend was the first time I have been out on this track. so I am pretty comfortable saying that he has a fairly good setup for his 1s 17.5 car.

really running motor for motor is the only way to go. I have heard from some of the top tracks that 17.5 1s is only about .1 -.2 slower then a 4 cell. really the 1s looses on the straights, but man does it move well in the infield.

on a side note, dumas put a 14.0 down with his 13.5 1s rev5lipo
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Old 05-19-2009, 03:12 PM   #31394
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So 1s sounds pretty close to 4 cell. The loss of weight in the infield is making up for a small loss of speed on the stright?
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Old 05-19-2009, 03:13 PM   #31395
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you are highly mis-informed about 1s and 4 cell.
Well then its a good thing that you can clear this all up.. as you clearly know it all In your example you used one sample your best lap to decide that you would be a full lap up. If you can run your very best lap every lap for 8mins then you are the very best driver in the world, my hats off to you.

As an average driver I'll lose that small advantage that nimh has by tapping a board or getting hung up somewhere; thus the 13.5 1s vs 17.5 nimh is very close for me and I'll bet for most of the vast majority of club racers.

Now that you've made me aware of your expertise I certainly wish you well and expect to see your name at the top of the A-main, move over Lia and Blackstock.
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