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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-15-2009, 01:28 AM   #31366
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Man i have been hung up on all this one cell lipo bussiness that i never saw any potential in the A123 until now. So these A123 are lipos but fit where a nimh should go. Has anyone tried then in the 12r5? Also do you use the same radio gear and servo, yeah racing brushless motor ect. as you would with nimh. Lastly does anyone have a website where i visit and buy these cells.

Thanks in advance,
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Old 05-15-2009, 07:00 AM   #31367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
<snip> As to saucing the tires this again can depend on the amount of bite but in general you sauce full rear and outer 1/2 to 1/3 of the front.
We always sauce the fronts starting from the insides of the tire, and only go out as far as needed. If you start saucing the fronts from the outside edge, it will catch the edge of the front tire and try to dig in. This will make the car edgy and evil. Not saying that you can't get this to work. I know people (decent drivers) that always sauce the whole tire.

If I have to sauce less than 1/4 or more than 3/4 of the front tire, I generally look for a different tire (less than 1/4 harder, more than 3/4 softer).

As far as car set-up, there are plenty of t-bar addicts on this thread (excluding me), post here a full listing of your set-up (ride height; front middle and rear, front spring size, shock oil/spring and side damping, brand and compound of tires, battery position, etc).. I am sure that you will get some help. The people that can help that are on the s120 thread should also be reading this one.

good luck
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:46 AM   #31368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverfrancis View Post
Man i have been hung up on all this one cell lipo bussiness that i never saw any potential in the A123 until now. So these A123 are lipos but fit where a nimh should go. Has anyone tried then in the 12r5? Also do you use the same radio gear and servo, yeah racing brushless motor ect. as you would with nimh. Lastly does anyone have a website where i visit and buy these cells.

Thanks in advance,

I dont have a pic of them in my 12r5 but yes thay will fit, as for the gear I dont know of anyone ever thats run the esc and motor your asking about but I dont see any issues. Here is a link to where I got mine
http://rcbuy.vstore.ca/product_info..../cName/lifepo4


Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70 View Post
We always sauce the fronts starting from the insides of the tire, and only go out as far as needed. If you start saucing the fronts from the outside edge, it will catch the edge of the front tire and try to dig in. This will make the car edgy and evil. Not saying that you can't get this to work. I know people (decent drivers) that always sauce the whole tire.

If I have to sauce less than 1/4 or more than 3/4 of the front tire, I generally look for a different tire (less than 1/4 harder, more than 3/4 softer).

As far as car set-up, there are plenty of t-bar addicts on this thread (excluding me), post here a full listing of your set-up (ride height; front middle and rear, front spring size, shock oil/spring and side damping, brand and compound of tires, battery position, etc).. I am sure that you will get some help. The people that can help that are on the s120 thread should also be reading this one.

good luck
Good catch your correct I ment to type inside not outside
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:08 AM   #31369
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Good catch your correct I ment to type inside not outside[/QUOTE]

nice. im going to try this this weekend and see if it calms the car down some
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Old 05-16-2009, 08:10 AM   #31370
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Hi everyone.

In the past, 1/12th scale racing in the UK has mainly been limited to the winter months when the nationals are run. Club racing does exist here, but for many of the guys who do nationals its a case of racing at the nationals and nothing else.

In 2007 a new summer series was setup by one of the clubs who host a round of the BRCA nationals. This year sees the third AMC Summer Shootout series, and this time round there will be four rounds spread over the summer.

The first round took place last weekend and attracted an entry of about 70 drivers from national A finalists to club racers.

A video of the A-main has been posted on youtube. Click here to view it;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4jkYDZ1pjA

Full results and pics are available from this weksite;

www.carsrcracing.co.uk
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Old 05-16-2009, 11:06 AM   #31371
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Mark,

That was some intense racing! Fun looking track as well.
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Old 05-16-2009, 02:20 PM   #31372
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After two years of constant use I have managed to wear out my slapmaster thrust bearing. The washers, nut, and plastic spacer are in perfect shape, but the bearing itself is worn out. Anyone know where I could get a new bearing without buying a new kit from slapmaster? Is it this bearing?

http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-Thrust-Beari...ayphotohosting


Thanks!
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Old 05-16-2009, 02:27 PM   #31373
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
After two years of constant use I have managed to wear out my slapmaster thrust bearing. The washers, nut, and plastic spacer are in perfect shape, but the bearing itself is worn out. Anyone know where I could get a new bearing without buying a new kit from slapmaster? Is it this bearing?

http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-Thrust-Beari...ayphotohosting


Thanks!
No the OD and ID of the one you linked is wrong.
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Old 05-17-2009, 06:57 AM   #31374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
After two years of constant use I have managed to wear out my slapmaster thrust bearing. The washers, nut, and plastic spacer are in perfect shape, but the bearing itself is worn out. Anyone know where I could get a new bearing without buying a new kit from slapmaster? Is it this bearing?

http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-Thrust-Beari...ayphotohosting


Thanks!
I think I would email Slapmaster, Why go the indirect route?
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Old 05-17-2009, 09:50 AM   #31375
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Mr. Moore,

You have an email. Thanks. I've been working non-stop for a week. Talk with you later.
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Old 05-19-2009, 02:54 AM   #31376
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morning chaps, i would like to know if ROAR has any intention of making lipo legal in 1/12 for 2010? i think the easy of use for lipo would help the class grow. is there any chassis at this stage that can take lipo, and if so what lipos and are those lipos going to be approved? im keen to get involved but at this stage i dont want a chassis that will need to be upgraded in a few months... any advice would be appreciated
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Old 05-19-2009, 03:22 AM   #31377
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Originally Posted by sagejyoung View Post
morning chaps, i would like to know if ROAR has any intention of making lipo legal in 1/12 for 2010?
What rock have you been hiding under....

Yes, ROAR has announced that 1s LiPo (single cell 3.7v) will be legal for 2010, minimum weight 730 grams.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sagejyoung View Post
is there any chassis at this stage that can take lipo
SpeedMerchant is the only one with a LiPo specific chassis, others will follow soon.

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/sho...l/smr1414.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by sagejyoung View Post
what lipos and are those lipos going to be approved
SMC has a 1s 4000mah LiPo that is approved. Others are on ROAR's approved list, but not yet readily available. Several have mentioned other battery company's have some on the way.

http://www.smc-racing.com/lv_sum4025s.htm
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Old 05-19-2009, 04:13 AM   #31378
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People have been easily putting 1 cell LiPo in the link cars for awhile now so a LiPo specific chassis really isn't needed to be competitive.
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Old 05-19-2009, 04:51 AM   #31379
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hope you guys can help, I have couple of questions

we currently run only one, 1/12th scale class in South Africa and that is open mod, I'm currently using a 12R5 with a nosram ISTC and 4.5t motor and am tired of the nimh maitenance, and am interested in trying the lipo for the 1/12th scale

-I see you guys mention a voltage booster for running 1s lipo, where do you get the booster ?

-would the smc 4000mah 1s lipo still be competitive in the 1/12th mod class? or will the 4cell nimh's have a serious power advantage,

I know there is a difference in voltage but could that not be compensated for in gearing ??
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Old 05-19-2009, 05:11 AM   #31380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlideMasteR View Post
-I see you guys mention a voltage booster for running 1s lipo, where do you get the booster ?

-would the smc 4000mah 1s lipo still be competitive in the 1/12th mod class? or will the 4cell nimh's have a serious power advantage,

I know there is a difference in voltage but could that not be compensated for in gearing ??
Novak and TQ Cells has Boosters. Here is a link for the Novak Booster, which can be purchased directly from them or your favorite LHS:

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/sm...ost/index.html

Can't help you on the Mod motor stuff, but I can say that 5000mah 1-cell packs will be available shortly.
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