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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-14-2009, 06:38 AM   #31351
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hardmankam - Thats pretty cool, Who doesnt want to run 20 minutes and only charge for 20 min!!!!!!!!! Its an unusual layout but if its balanced who cares. What is the total weight of the car?
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Old 05-14-2009, 06:42 AM   #31352
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What is the weight difference between the 1s Lipo and 2 A132 Cells?
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Old 05-14-2009, 07:28 AM   #31353
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Hi guys,

In my track, the electric classes been raced are :

- Touring 1/10 (13.5 brushless, 6 cells nimh batts)
- Mini Cooper (27t brushed, 6 cells stick packs, fixed pinion for all)

Now, im trying to get the people to race 1/12 scale (asphalt track, outdoor), can you more or less give me ideas on which way organice a nice set of rules (technicals) for low-budget-and-fun 1/12 class ? (i mean, motors, cells, etc ?). Im imaging like 8.5, 10.5 brushless or 13.5 brushless and 4 nimh cells.

thanks guys !!

Pat
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Old 05-14-2009, 09:49 AM   #31354
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Exclamation hey

hey guys i have got a cyclone 12x and i have got

.a gtb 4 cell speedo with a 4.5 brushless motor

.and 4200 east power infinity battries

.a ko servo that costs over 150

.and an acoms reciver

i just wanted to know if i can use lipos with this or not it is one of the fastest things i have ever seen but i want it to go faster at the minet it is geared 14t on a 84 spur so it is the best at acceleratin

can i use lipos or not?

thanks mike
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Old 05-14-2009, 12:37 PM   #31355
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You can but you will have to get creative on how you mount the battery. Some people with saddle pack cars have tried balancing the car with the LiPo on one side of the car and the electronics on the other.

But...LiPo isn't going to make the car faster...it'll make it slower because the voltage is lower.
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Old 05-14-2009, 12:39 PM   #31356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
Hi guys,

In my track, the electric classes been raced are :

- Touring 1/10 (13.5 brushless, 6 cells nimh batts)
- Mini Cooper (27t brushed, 6 cells stick packs, fixed pinion for all)

Now, im trying to get the people to race 1/12 scale (asphalt track, outdoor), can you more or less give me ideas on which way organice a nice set of rules (technicals) for low-budget-and-fun 1/12 class ? (i mean, motors, cells, etc ?). Im imaging like 8.5, 10.5 brushless or 13.5 brushless and 4 nimh cells.

thanks guys !!

Pat
I would recommend starting out with a 17.5 or 13.5 class. These are pretty quick but not quick enough to be breaking a lot of parts. For the technical part of the rules just use the same ones ROAR uses...they already have a good technical set of rules made up.
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Old 05-14-2009, 04:10 PM   #31357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quante View Post
I'm asking myself why nobody has looked into the A123cells as a new battery for 1/12th. 2S gives you 6.6V and they can be charged in 15 minutes.
Atm I'm designing a 12th car using those cells as I dont care much for a 1S lipo pack.
I love the A123 cells in the picture below I have a 2S2P pack of the 1100 mah A123 cells. These are the same size as current nimh cells and I have another pack that is split to fit my t-bar cars. These will make a full 8min run with a 17.5 but I've never tried then with a super stock or mod motor so I'm not sure on those. These weigh about the same as the 1s lipo but have the punch and zip of the nimh, plus thay only cost $7 a cell.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshM20 View Post
A few guys talk about doing it on the thread The future of 1/12th scale... or something like that. Some have done it, I thought about it. Seems like you can do it in a T-Bar chassis, so it appeals me.
See above description and pic below

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Doing a car to satisfy your own curiosity, etc, is probably great but designing one at this point to race competitively (and dream of any sort of commercial success) is going to be like pissing into a hurricane. At this point it appears the decision has been made and 1s LiPo is it.

As far as the A123 batteries, I confess to not knowing a TON about them but for starters even 6.6v (nominal) is way too much. 4-cell / 17.5 (and 1s / 13.5 is VERY similar speed) is really too fast for 1/12 beginners and there's no motor available that would see a 6.6v car running even THAT comparatively slowly. Even a 21.5 would be faster.

Also (and this may have changed) it seems that anybody I'd seen trying A123 cells ended their test description with "if we shortened the race time" because capacity was pretty severely limited. That is decidedly opposite the trend right now since for 2009 all 1/10 classes have INCREASED race time to six minutes. I'm not interested at ALL in decreasing 1/12 race time--8 minutes it's been and 8 minutes it should remain. As it is, we were barely taking 2000-2200mah out of 1s packs running 10.5 at Denver in March so I'd say 20+ minute races running 17.5 could be feasible. Maybe not practical, but feasible...
But the sub-c type A123 cells fit like nimh, have the same 4.8v and solve all the t-bar issues that 1s lipo does'nt. And I can make 8mins no problem and thats with aggressive gearing of 76/54

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Old 05-14-2009, 08:16 PM   #31358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nrtv20 View Post
hardmankam - Thats pretty cool, Who doesnt want to run 20 minutes and only charge for 20 min!!!!!!!!! Its an unusual layout but if its balanced who cares. What is the total weight of the car?
I dont have the exact weight of my 2S A123 12x. BUT here are the weight breakdown:

Left Side
2S A123 -> 150g

Right Side
SPGT ESC -> 75g
KO Receiver -> 10g
Lead Weight -> 60g

+ servo + motor + car itself.

I have tried mounting 1 cell A123 on each side, but because the battery is too long, the esc pushes too far forward and the body will not fit.
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Old 05-14-2009, 08:21 PM   #31359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
I love the A123 cells in the picture below I have a 2S2P pack of the 1100 mah A123 cells. These are the same size as current nimh cells and I have another pack that is split to fit my t-bar cars. These will make a full 8min run with a 17.5 but I've never tried then with a super stock or mod motor so I'm not sure on those. These weigh about the same as the 1s lipo but have the punch and zip of the nimh, plus thay only cost $7 a cell.



See above description and pic below



But the sub-c type A123 cells fit like nimh, have the same 4.8v and solve all the t-bar issues that 1s lipo does'nt. And I can make 8mins no problem and thats with aggressive gearing of 76/54

I didnt know they make Sub-C sized A123. But for 2S A123, the total voltage should be 6.6v, not 4.8v.
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Old 05-14-2009, 08:34 PM   #31360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone-12boy View Post
hey guys i have got a cyclone 12x and i have got

.a gtb 4 cell speedo with a 4.5 brushless motor

.and 4200 east power infinity battries

.a ko servo that costs over 150

.and an acoms reciver

i just wanted to know if i can use lipos with this or not it is one of the fastest things i have ever seen but i want it to go faster at the minet it is geared 14t on a 84 spur so it is the best at acceleratin

can i use lipos or not?

thanks mike
Hi Mike

You can try to use saddle pack lipo. In order to fit the saddle pack lipo in a T-bar car, you will have to mount the batteries sideways. (extend the batteries outwards)

The total voltage is 7.4v If you pair 7.4v with a 5.5R/6.5R, it should be faster than 4.5R with 4.8v.

like this:

Last edited by hardmankam; 05-14-2009 at 10:12 PM. Reason: Photo added
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Old 05-14-2009, 08:56 PM   #31361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardmankam View Post
I didnt know they make Sub-C sized A123. But for 2S A123, the total voltage should be 6.6v, not 4.8v.
No the sub-c sized cells are not 3.3v like the big cells you used. Another difference is that the 3.3v cells are alum construction while the smaller cells I have are standard cell construction so much easier to build the packs.
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Old 05-14-2009, 09:20 PM   #31362
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Hey guys im new to this and have a question, comparing my car to others on the track i can tell that my car slows down a lot in the turns, What can i do to fix this?
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Old 05-14-2009, 09:55 PM   #31363
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Go faster jk, sounds like your car is scrubbing speed and or digging in, what kind of car and what tires?
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Old 05-14-2009, 10:39 PM   #31364
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Its a serpent s120 the tires are jacos but i dont remember which ones.
Do you put the tire additive in the front and rear or just the rear?
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Old 05-14-2009, 10:50 PM   #31365
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Hmmm well I just picked up an S120 but have'nt put any laps on it yet so I'm not going to try and advise you on how to make any exact setup changes. But in general if the car is too locked in you need to free it up. The tires your using is very important, say your on a high bite track and your using super soft tires like white or grey, that could cause the problem your having. Just a suggestion but I'd post your questin in the S120 thread, but you really need to know what tires, surface grip and the details of your current setup before anyone can be of very much help. As to saucing the tires this again can depend on the amount of bite but in general you sauce full rear and inner 1/2 to 1/3 of the front.
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Last edited by chris moore; 05-15-2009 at 09:47 AM. Reason: correct typo
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