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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-11-2009, 09:42 PM   #31321
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Easiest way to do it, score it with an Xacto knife (just a couple of swipes you don't need to cut all the way through it) and snap them off with pliers. works every time.
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Old 05-12-2009, 01:38 PM   #31322
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Exclamation foams

hi all i am just about to order some foams but thay are down as like 27 s 30 s 32 s 34 s 36 s 38 s 40 s 42 s and i want to know

what is

megenta in nombers

and

white in nombers

if soo can somone wb asap ass i need these for friday thanks mike

thanks agen
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Old 05-12-2009, 03:47 PM   #31323
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Yup.

Cleanest way I've done is to use an Exacto saw (or similar) followed by a few swipes with a fine sanding stick.

Next cleanest with a Dremel cutoff wheel followed by a few swipes with the sanding sticks.

Worst case scenario...a utility knife will do it...
I like to gnaw them off with my teeth
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Old 05-12-2009, 04:44 PM   #31324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone-12boy View Post
hi all i am just about to order some foams but thay are down as like 27 s 30 s 32 s 34 s 36 s 38 s 40 s 42 s and i want to know

what is

megenta in nombers

and

white in nombers

if soo can somone wb asap ass i need these for friday thanks mike

thanks agen
wee dun no wat yu is sayign. if sum wun kood hep yu tipe in ENGLISH mabee wee cud hep yu.
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Old 05-12-2009, 04:46 PM   #31325
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Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
I like to gnaw them off with my teeth
I actually prefer to use my table saw (use a finish blade though) but figured most folks don't have one of those handy and they're a bit pricey to buy one for a servo mod.
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Old 05-13-2009, 10:08 AM   #31326
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I'm planning on switching over to lipo power this fall and I could use some help from some of you that have been running lipos for a while. I understand that I need a 1S lipo pack per ROAR rules. But what about power to the receiver and speedo? Right now I'm running a Tekin RS, Spektrum micro receiver, and a Futaba 9650 servo. Should I use a lipo rx pack or a booster? If I should use a receiver pack, what size gives sufficient power, yet is small enough for the chassis? I'm new to lipos and a little confused on how to wire up all the extra stuff.
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Old 05-13-2009, 10:35 AM   #31327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy View Post
I'm planning on switching over to lipo power this fall
Fuzzy -

You're thinking WAY to far ahead. We need to re-build the Gate first.

I'm considering the booster module, if only for the fact that it is one less battery to maintain/charge. Maybe someone will make one in a small case that can easily plug into your Rx using standard servo connectors, and solder it's leads to the battery posts on the ESC. Or better yet, incorporate it into the Rx case itself, without needing any special connections to be made. Just plug in your Rx, steering servo, connect the battery, and turn on the switch and go.
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:47 AM   #31328
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YOKOMO 12R5 World Champion option Parts
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:57 AM   #31329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone-12boy View Post
hi all i am just about to order some foams but thay are down as like 27 s 30 s 32 s 34 s 36 s 38 s 40 s 42 s and i want to know

what is

megenta in nombers

and

white in nombers

if soo can somone wb asap ass i need these for friday thanks mike

thanks agen
Magenta tires are 32 shore and are a natural rubber foam
White is 25 shore and is a low natural rubber foam (synthetic blend)

The number refers to a hardness rating when using a durometer. There are different scales, so if you are using a durometer to measure your tires, make sure you are using the correct scale, and keep in mind that thickness of the foam will effect measurements.

good luck.
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Old 05-13-2009, 02:00 PM   #31330
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Wink thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70 View Post
Magenta tires are 32 shore and are a natural rubber foam
White is 25 shore and is a low natural rubber foam (synthetic blend)

The number refers to a hardness rating when using a durometer. There are different scales, so if you are using a durometer to measure your tires, make sure you are using the correct scale, and keep in mind that thickness of the foam will effect measurements.

good luck.
thanks is it the lower the shore the stickyer to the track?
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Old 05-13-2009, 02:03 PM   #31331
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I like to gnaw them off with my teeth
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Old 05-13-2009, 03:32 PM   #31332
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Originally Posted by Fuzzy View Post
I'm planning on switching over to lipo power this fall and I could use some help from some of you that have been running lipos for a while. I understand that I need a 1S lipo pack per ROAR rules. But what about power to the receiver and speedo? Right now I'm running a Tekin RS, Spektrum micro receiver, and a Futaba 9650 servo. Should I use a lipo rx pack or a booster? If I should use a receiver pack, what size gives sufficient power, yet is small enough for the chassis? I'm new to lipos and a little confused on how to wire up all the extra stuff.

I've been runing the 1s for a few months now. I've tried the receiver pack and the booster and found that for me the booster was the easier way to go. I have the same electronics setup you have, you plug the booster into the receiver and attach the other end to the + and - of the esc. Currently you leave the esc switch off and when you plug the battery in everything goes hot. According to Tekin once thay fix the 198 update we'll be able to use the esc switch and utilitize the lipo cuttoff. Heres a couple of pics.

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Old 05-13-2009, 03:34 PM   #31333
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Maybe someone will make one in a small case that can easily plug into your Rx using standard servo connectors, and solder it's leads to the battery posts on the ESC.
Thats how the TQ booster works, see my post above for pics
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Old 05-13-2009, 05:19 PM   #31334
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Thats how the TQ booster works, see my post above for pics
Or order the nearly identical booster from Hobby King for about 1/5 the price. You have to wait a bit (mine were here in about a week) and it has servo-type plugs at both ends. The receiver lead from the esc plugs into it at one end then the booster itself plugs into the receiver. Couldn't be easier. I ordered 6 of 'em when I ordered and they were less than $5 each shipped.

The TQ one runs about $25-30 if I'm not mistaken. The Novak one due out any second now is a whopping $40-45. In fairness the Novak has a higher output voltage and (I believe) a higher current rating, but neither are necessary for 1/12. The el-cheapo Hobby King unit has a 5v constant output and does 1 amp continuous / 1.5 amp surge...PLENTY for a 1/12 servo and PT.
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Old 05-13-2009, 09:00 PM   #31335
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With the lipo, a lot of esc say they have to use 2 or 3 cell lipos.

Is it still possible to run them on one cell?
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