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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-04-2009, 03:12 PM   #31276
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
How is the BMI 12r?
Excellent car, especially for asphalt.

One nice thing about 1/12th is that older cars are still extremely competitive as well. I'm still winning with a 12L4, though I did just pick up a GenX 12 in trade.
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Old 05-04-2009, 03:24 PM   #31277
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whats your opinion on 4c subc vs. 1c lipo? is there a signifigant voltage difference?
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Old 05-04-2009, 03:32 PM   #31278
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whats your opinion on 4c subc vs. 1c lipo? THere is a huge voltage difference, no?
Yes but they don't use the same motors. I like 4 cell myself. The latest cells are performing great and my track hasn't gone lipo yet.
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Old 05-04-2009, 03:39 PM   #31279
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The Rev.5 information is available here. It was in a news release on their site. The news section seems to be more up to date than the 'cars' section.

Rumors say pretty soon there will be no round cells used at big events. This will also mean that the car weights will be re-adjusted with much lower weight minimums than what we have now. The rumors are somewhere between 720 - 740. Some tracks are getting around the mixing of batteries by allowing the people racing single cell lipo to use 13.5 motors race against the 17.5 round cells. At our local track we let the less experienced drivers mix in what they wanted for a while, for the summer points series we are forcing everyone to switch.

What your local track allows is up to them, however, by getting a link/spring car, like the Rev.5, you will be ready for the impending change when it does happen.

Good luck.
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Old 05-04-2009, 03:39 PM   #31280
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Yes but they don't use the same motors. I like 4 cell myself. The latest cells are performing great and my track hasn't gone lipo yet.
Oh, so the 4c guys run 1 spec motor, and the lipo guys run a different motor? I like the simplicity of lipo, but would have no problem running 4cell either. It just seems that there realy aren't any 12s out there ready to go with lipo.
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Old 05-04-2009, 04:21 PM   #31281
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Oh, so the 4c guys run 1 spec motor, and the lipo guys run a different motor? I like the simplicity of lipo, but would have no problem running 4cell either. It just seems that there realy aren't any 12s out there ready to go with lipo.
Not so the BMI DB12R and DB12RR are both 1s lipo compatible and for my money the best car on the market. Now to be fair I run the BMI car so it could be said that I'm biased that way, just as timmay 70 is with the speedmerchant as thats what he runs.

I will say that I've been running 1/12 since the late 80's and in that time I've owned/run allmost every brand of 1/12 thats been on the market. The BMI car is the best car for an inexperianced 1/12 driver. Ther reason for that is the car is close to impossible to tweak. I have run link cars like the speedmerchant and CRC cars, thay are fast but I've just never been able to be consistant with link cars. I dont wish to sound like an expert or an elite driver; as I'm not; nor am I down on any brand every 1/12 car on the market today can win.

One last thing I'll say is not to pay alot of attention to the advertised results at big races by any brand. Remember that most of those brands have the top drivers on thier payroll, those guys could win with a brick on wheels. The real testiment to a car is how the average driver can do with the car, and the support avalible
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Old 05-04-2009, 05:07 PM   #31282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Not so the BMI DB12R and DB12RR are both 1s lipo compatible and for my money the best car on the market. Now to be fair I run the BMI car so it could be said that I'm biased that way, just as timmay 70 is with the speedmerchant as thats what he runs.

I will say that I've been running 1/12 since the late 80's and in that time I've owned/run allmost every brand of 1/12 thats been on the market. The BMI car is the best car for an inexperianced 1/12 driver. Ther reason for that is the car is close to impossible to tweak. I have run link cars like the speedmerchant and CRC cars, thay are fast but I've just never been able to be consistant with link cars. I dont wish to sound like an expert or an elite driver; as I'm not; nor am I down on any brand every 1/12 car on the market today can win.

One last thing I'll say is not to pay alot of attention to the advertised results at big races by any brand. Remember that most of those brands have the top drivers on thier payroll, those guys could win with a brick on wheels. The real testiment to a car is how the average driver can do with the car, and the support avalible

Thanks for the information Chris... I really appreciate it!... Time to dig in!

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Old 05-04-2009, 07:18 PM   #31283
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Well.. speedmerchant doesn't have anything on the Rev5 on their website... any other models / makes / links you can provide?
Yes they do, just not where you would expect to find it.

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/sho...l/smr1412.html
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Old 05-04-2009, 07:31 PM   #31284
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Not so the BMI DB12R and DB12RR are both 1s lipo compatible and for my money the best car on the market. Now to be fair I run the BMI car so it could be said that I'm biased that way, just as timmay 70 is with the speedmerchant as thats what he runs.

I will say that I've been running 1/12 since the late 80's and in that time I've owned/run allmost every brand of 1/12 thats been on the market. The BMI car is the best car for an inexperianced 1/12 driver. Ther reason for that is the car is close to impossible to tweak. I have run link cars like the speedmerchant and CRC cars, thay are fast but I've just never been able to be consistant with link cars. I dont wish to sound like an expert or an elite driver; as I'm not; nor am I down on any brand every 1/12 car on the market today can win.

One last thing I'll say is not to pay alot of attention to the advertised results at big races by any brand. Remember that most of those brands have the top drivers on thier payroll, those guys could win with a brick on wheels. The real testiment to a car is how the average driver can do with the car, and the support avalible
And thats why I love RC Tech...Real info, Real racers.
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Old 05-04-2009, 07:32 PM   #31285
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Yes they do, just not where you would expect to find it.

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/sho...l/smr1412.html

Like under their list of production cars Thanks for the link!
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:31 PM   #31286
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Default XRAY XII WITH GTB ESC

Hi guys,
I am new to 1/12th and gathering the gears to setup a car and need to know if the Novak GTB is good for 1/12. Its not the 4 cells version but the stardard brushless one.
I someone using it on a 12th?
Thanks
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:02 AM   #31287
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The standard GTB is on the tall side to fit in a 1/12 scale. I know some folks who have removed the heatsink and replaced it with an aluminum plate to get it to fit under the bodywork.

My first choice for a 1/12 scale brushless speedo is the Tekin RS. It's smaller and lighter than anything out there.
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Old 05-06-2009, 01:29 AM   #31288
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Default 1/12th setup.

Hi,
is there a website where I can get setup guidance to get the 12th handling better?[ oversteer, understeer, spinning etc etc]. I always raced 1/10th and got setup advice from the hudy book as it shows how to setup the car and how different setup changes the way the car handles.

But on 1/12th I really know nothing...


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Old 05-06-2009, 01:54 AM   #31289
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Richard Chang's setup tips HERE
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Old 05-06-2009, 02:01 AM   #31290
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Default 1/12th setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips View Post
Richard Chang's setup tips HERE
Thanks mate. I really apreciate that!
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