R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-02-2009, 10:00 PM   #31261
Tech Elite
 
PutAwayWet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 2,296
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshM20 View Post
Hey guys,
I'm really new to 12th scale. I'm looking for a starting setup on my L4, I have no idea where to start... Here is a pic of the track, it's small but alot of 180's.

I'm rebuilding it tonight, and I don't know where to even start.

Thanks for the help.

Josh
That's a nice facility you have there. Perfect for 1/12th scale.

Anyway, this gets posted on this thread from time to time, but it's worth doing again. It's about the best little tip sheet I know of.

http://richardchang.com/hobby/rctips_112_summary.pdf

Also, go to the X-ray website and download the XII setup manual. It's an L4 design and has very helpful information.

Finally, the 12L3 manual has good info about setup and the AE front end that the L4 manual did not include.

http://aedownloads.com/downloads/man...2l3_manual.pdf

Good luck. The L4 is still a great car and will serve you well.
__________________
Todd Mason
Seattle RC Racers

The world ends when you're dead. Until then, you got more punishment in store.
Stand it like a man, and give some back. --Al Swearengen
PutAwayWet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2009, 10:35 PM   #31262
Tech Master
 
Danny-b23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Posts: 1,212
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HB View Post
Hi i'm running a Cyclone12X
i got a option for a 2.0mm or a 2.5mm chassis on carpet
i was wondering what the difference are for carpet race
Thanx
The 2.0 will have more chassis flex, which makes it more suited for low-traction tracks, and the 2.5 will have less flex, which makes it good for most carpet tracks.
Danny-b23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2009, 03:17 AM   #31263
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 708
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyK View Post
I have a 12 L3 and the chassis is getting a little beat up. I was wondering if I can use a L4 chassis and would it bolt up with all the L3 stuff.
Everything bolts up with no problems, damper posts and all. I did the same thing last year.
adam lancia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2009, 10:58 AM   #31264
Tech Regular
 
drbelleville's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 364
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys, I am upgrading my servo to a Futaba S9650, and was wondering to get the most out of it how do I wire up a receiver pack / booster pack to run it at 6.0V. Is it necessary or recommended to run a booster I have never run a setup requiring a booster / receiver pack. I am running older equipment in my RC12LC. I have a Futaba Magnum 1024 FP-T3PB (in PPM mode) an LRP IPC 8.1, Reedy 12T KR, and my trusty SMC 4600 4 cell battery packs. I just want to get an idea, or diagram to ensure I dont damage anything and set up the booster / pack right. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you
__________________
R/C'ing since 1982, Pro-10 racing in Germany and Italy in the early 90's, Keil DTM Cup.

The Pro-10 Pusher.
drbelleville is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2009, 11:14 AM   #31265
Tech Regular
 
TonyK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 267
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Trips and Adam Lancia, Thanks for the answers I am not quite ready to invest in a new car but, need to make some minor repairs and this will do.
__________________
A large part of their history is made up of blood and battle. This is not something to shrink away from as a fancier of the breed. Their history should be embraced, understood, and once we have a full understanding, we can control the future.
TonyK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2009, 11:36 AM   #31266
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,625
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

If you're running 4 cell Nimhs, you are already running 6V and should not need to run a receiver pack. The guys that are running 1S lipos are running those packs to increase the voltage.


Quote:
Originally Posted by drbelleville View Post
Hey guys, I am upgrading my servo to a Futaba S9650, and was wondering to get the most out of it how do I wire up a receiver pack / booster pack to run it at 6.0V. Is it necessary or recommended to run a booster I have never run a setup requiring a booster / receiver pack. I am running older equipment in my RC12LC. I have a Futaba Magnum 1024 FP-T3PB (in PPM mode) an LRP IPC 8.1, Reedy 12T KR, and my trusty SMC 4600 4 cell battery packs. I just want to get an idea, or diagram to ensure I dont damage anything and set up the booster / pack right. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you
EVILGRAFX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2009, 11:44 AM   #31267
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,065
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys, I would like some basic direction help with getting started in 12th scale. I am a classic touring car guy, and have done it for many years (been out for a while, now getting back in) and would like to race 1/12th at the same time (outdoor med traction asphault), but am 100% (im talking... one hundred percent) ignorant to anythign and everything 12th scale /pancar.

I guess first thing is first, I need some direction on picking a car to run. Can anybody point me to a great kit? I need something competative, and something I can get parts for online pretty easily.

Iv heard of carpet knives? BMI something or other? L4 something or other?

Thanks for any advice/URLs you can provide.

Cpt.
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2009, 12:34 PM   #31268
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 1,052
Trader Rating: 16 (94%+)
Default

Can Futaba Receivers, specifically the 603FS, directly handle a 7.4v 2s LiPo reciever battery without failure?

I am currently running the SMC 1-cell LiPo's in my 1/12 and WGT cars, but have been using the boosters or the receiver battery w/LiPo regulator.

What about the rest of the equipment too while we are on it, anyone know if these will burn out or fail from a 7.4v 2s LiPo receiver battery:

KO 949 Servo (1/12)
Futaba 9551 Servo (WGT)
AMB Transponder
LRP Sphere Comp '07
LRP SPX Stock Spec

I have emailed Futaba support, no answer yet, but I would rather get feedback from actual usage, not just an official Futaba answer.
__________________
KSN
kn7671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2009, 01:19 PM   #31269
Tech Master
 
timmay70's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,702
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kn7671 View Post
Can Futaba Receivers, specifically the 603FS, directly handle a 7.4v 2s LiPo reciever battery without failure?

I am currently running the SMC 1-cell LiPo's in my 1/12 and WGT cars, but have been using the boosters or the receiver battery w/LiPo regulator.

What about the rest of the equipment too while we are on it, anyone know if these will burn out or fail from a 7.4v 2s LiPo receiver battery:

KO 949 Servo (1/12)
Futaba 9551 Servo (WGT)
AMB Transponder
LRP Sphere Comp '07
LRP SPX Stock Spec

I have emailed Futaba support, no answer yet, but I would rather get feedback from actual usage, not just an official Futaba answer.
We have people at our local track running lipo packs with some sucess. It takes a few weeks to pop a JR servo... However, people running KO and Futaba have no problems running at 7.4v. In GT I have a Fut 9651 with no problems on lipo Rx pack.
__________________
Speed Merchant Rev7, Tekin, TQ Racing (wire), Team Tamale
RC Excitement - Buy where you race, support your local tracks.
ROAR #105242
timmay70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2009, 01:29 PM   #31270
Tech Master
 
timmay70's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,702
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Hey guys, I would like some basic direction help with getting started in 12th scale. I am a classic touring car guy, and have done it for many years (been out for a while, now getting back in) and would like to race 1/12th at the same time (outdoor med traction asphault), but am 100% (im talking... one hundred percent) ignorant to anythign and everything 12th scale /pancar.

I guess first thing is first, I need some direction on picking a car to run. Can anybody point me to a great kit? I need something competative, and something I can get parts for online pretty easily.

Iv heard of carpet knives? BMI something or other? L4 something or other?

Thanks for any advice/URLs you can provide.

Cpt.
Capt'n,

Since the change to single cell lipo (at least here in the states) is going to happen sooner than later, I'd say get one of the chassis that will support Lipo out of the gate, like the Speed Merchant Rev.5. These cars will support both round cells (if you have to), and the latest in lipo tech, currently SMC is the only player in that market. Others will join soon.

Even MFGs that produce t-plate cars are getting ready to release cars that will support lipos. Several prototypes were seen at the ROAR nats, others were talked about, but were under blankets.
__________________
Speed Merchant Rev7, Tekin, TQ Racing (wire), Team Tamale
RC Excitement - Buy where you race, support your local tracks.
ROAR #105242
timmay70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2009, 01:30 PM   #31271
Tech Elite
 
motomanpat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,180
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Hey guys, I would like some basic direction help with getting started in 12th scale. I am a classic touring car guy, and have done it for many years (been out for a while, now getting back in) and would like to race 1/12th at the same time (outdoor med traction asphault), but am 100% (im talking... one hundred percent) ignorant to anythign and everything 12th scale /pancar.

I guess first thing is first, I need some direction on picking a car to run. Can anybody point me to a great kit? I need something competative, and something I can get parts for online pretty easily.

Iv heard of carpet knives? BMI something or other? L4 something or other?

Thanks for any advice/URLs you can provide.

Cpt.
I am looking for the same information myself so I thought I would give it a bump!
__________________
POWERED BY CORONA,MARLBORO'S
AND A RC CRACK HABIT
New sponsor YAK SCENT BODY SPRAY(Only the champs use it)
motomanpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2009, 01:40 PM   #31272
HB
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Holland
Posts: 78
Default

Thanx Danny-b23 for u replay
i will try the 2,5mm chassis on a mid-grip carpet track
HB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2009, 02:01 PM   #31273
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,065
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70 View Post
Capt'n,

Since the change to single cell lipo (at least here in the states) is going to happen sooner than later, I'd say get one of the chassis that will support Lipo out of the gate, like the Speed Merchant Rev.5. These cars will support both round cells (if you have to), and the latest in lipo tech, currently SMC is the only player in that market. Others will join soon.

Even MFGs that produce t-plate cars are getting ready to release cars that will support lipos. Several prototypes were seen at the ROAR nats, others were talked about, but were under blankets.

Well.. speedmerchant doesn't have anything on the Rev5 on their website... any other models / makes / links you can provide?
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -

Last edited by Cpt.America; 05-04-2009 at 03:31 PM.
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2009, 02:12 PM   #31274
Tech Regular
 
revo523's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: NOLA!
Posts: 466
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

CRC gen x or the 12r5 thats my two choices.
__________________
Xray T2 009 EU Tekin RS PRO Novak 13.5 SMC 5200
Team Magic G4JS O.S.12 skyline 12plus
Spektrum DX3S

What came first the chicken or the egg?
revo523 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2009, 02:24 PM   #31275
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,065
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

How is the BMI 12r?
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:45 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0