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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-27-2009, 09:58 PM   #31216
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Originally Posted by Outerlimits View Post
I am having a problem with my diff and the slapmaster bearing. When I tighten the diff I cant get it right, it is either locked up or slips. I am down to turning it a degree at a time witch is hard. Also its smooth when I rebuild it but dosnt last long. Should I have the Bevel Washer in? I do not as of now. Here is how I am preping my diffs. I first start out sanding the rings with 200 grit to get them flat then working my way up to 600 grit. Then I put a little diff lube into each hole and a light smear on the rings.
Reassembly D-ring, Spur, D-Ring ,Wheel Hub, Slapmaster Spacer, thrust washer, nut. The slapmaster spacer rests on the bearing. I then tight lightly and beak in each side at 1/4 throttle. O this is on a 12R5 with the 10R5 b/l conversion. I do have the correct slapmaster 109. I think?

Thank you for any help


Jake
I have the exact setup you have, and mine works flawlessly and reliably. #109 is the right one (you couldn't actually build it with the wrong one.) Maybe the spacer is crushed? Is the little lip that goes on the bearing side intact? Also, how is the nyon locknut? The nylon should be quite firm. It should really hold it's setting. Beyond that, I really can't say. Check the thrust bearing itself. Are the races intact? Is the brass part with the balls intact? If all else fails, don't hesitate to contact Brian himself, he is always responsive and supportive.

http://www.slapmastertools.com/

Good luck.

Todd M.
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:22 PM   #31217
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It sounds like somewhere in the reassembly you have intoduced some junk/grit; be extra carefull not to touch any surfaces with you fingers and clean everything with motoro cleaner before you assemble it. Or as was mentioned you may have a faulty unit and need to contact Brian.
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Old 04-28-2009, 05:01 AM   #31218
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Hey guys,

I just want to say that 1/12th scale pan cars are the coolest when you watch them race. Anyway i was wondering what is the best 1/12th scale pan car on the market. I am not worried about the price but would like to know which one is the easiest to work with and so on.

Thanks in advance,
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Old 04-28-2009, 05:15 AM   #31219
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Hey guys,

I just want to say that 1/12th scale pan cars are the coolest when you watch them race. Anyway i was wondering what is the best 1/12th scale pan car on the market. I am not worried about the price but would like to know which one is the easiest to work with and so on.

Thanks in advance,


Seriously tho... there is no best 1/12 car... Just about every one of them is capable of winning in the right hands. It's 99.5 percent driving and setup, .5 percent car selection. You really can't go wrong with any of them.
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Old 04-28-2009, 05:18 AM   #31220
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one thing that folks often overlook.........it's really important that the nylon diff nut threads onto the axle's threaded stud absolutely straight. since the nylon nuts come without threads, it's all too easy when putting the nut on for the first time to get the threads started slightly crooked. the result of a crooked nut is that the flat part of the nut which contacts the thrust cone or thrust bearing contacts one side with much much more force than the other side. If that's the case, then it's just about impossible to get the diff to work correctly. It's easy to see if your nut is cocked. Just back it off until you can just see a barely visible gap between the thrust cone and the nut. The margin between the two should be perfectly consistent. If it's not, then the nut was threaded on crooked and it's no good. An easy fix (since it's quite difficult to start the threads in the plastic nuts perfectly straight) is to use an aluminum nylock nut. Since the threads in the aluminum are machined, the nut will go on straight. When I use nylon nuts, I run them on the axle first just to make the threads, and then I machine the bottom of the nut to align with whatever way the threads decided to force themselves into the plastic. That process works well, but it's just easier to use a nylock aluminum nut. Once you have a nut that presses onto the thrust bearing straight, you'll be able to achieve a smoothe diff that spins free and yet will lock up as it should. And the side benefit is that the diff will go way longer between rebuilds if the thrust bearing is being pressed correctly and not being tortured by applying pressure to only one side of it with a crooked diff nut. kapiche?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Outerlimits View Post
I am having a problem with my diff and the slapmaster bearing. When I tighten the diff I cant get it right, it is either locked up or slips. I am down to turning it a degree at a time witch is hard. Also its smooth when I rebuild it but dosnt last long. Should I have the Bevel Washer in? I do not as of now. Here is how I am preping my diffs. I first start out sanding the rings with 200 grit to get them flat then working my way up to 600 grit. Then I put a little diff lube into each hole and a light smear on the rings.
Reassembly D-ring, Spur, D-Ring ,Wheel Hub, Slapmaster Spacer, thrust washer, nut. The slapmaster spacer rests on the bearing. I then tight lightly and beak in each side at 1/4 throttle. O this is on a 12R5 with the 10R5 b/l conversion. I do have the correct slapmaster 109. I think?

Thank you for any help


Jake
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Old 04-28-2009, 05:56 AM   #31221
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Originally Posted by silverfrancis View Post
Hey guys,

I just want to say that 1/12th scale pan cars are the coolest when you watch them race. Anyway i was wondering what is the best 1/12th scale pan car on the market. I am not worried about the price but would like to know which one is the easiest to work with and so on.

Thanks in advance,
They are all so similar that they are all excellent. The only real choice is whether to go with a T-plate car (my favorite) or a link car (most popular).

T-plate car:

AE 12L4 or converted 12R5
CEFX
Xray
HB
Serpent
and a few others

Link car:

CRC
BMI
AE 12R5
and others.
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Old 04-28-2009, 06:09 AM   #31222
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What is better t-plate car or link car. What is the major difference overall on the car. Thanks.
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Old 04-28-2009, 06:19 AM   #31223
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Seriously... neither one is better, it comes down to preference. The difference is that on the Tplate chassis, the rear pod is attached to the car by a t shaped fiberglass plate. The side to side pivoting movement of the rear pod is controlled by the thickness of the plate. Thicker plates make the roll stiffness harder. On a link car, the pod is attached by a single pivot ball. Side links are used to keep the rear pod aligned with the rest of the car, and roll stiffness is adjusted by a pair of springs...

Both types of chassis work very well. If you want to try both, the Associated 12R5 might be a car to consider... It comes as a link car kit, but Associated sells a t-bar conversion set that converts it to a t-bar chassis.
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Old 04-28-2009, 06:28 AM   #31224
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Originally Posted by silverfrancis View Post
What is better t-plate car or link car. What is the major difference overall on the car. Thanks.
The best car for you to get is the one your track or hobby shop supports the most. Most racers get fed up with cars not because they don't work but because they can't get parts.

And 1/12 scale cars are just cheap enough that the top racers will switch brands week to week, and sometimes in the middle of a race day! The competition in 1/12 is so close that no one car will give you a clear advantage. Select one car, stick with it and work on setups. You'll learn more and do better with that.
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:08 AM   #31225
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The best car for you to get is the one your track or hobby shop supports the most. Most racers get fed up with cars not because they don't work but because they can't get parts.

And 1/12 scale cars are just cheap enough that the top racers will switch brands week to week, and sometimes in the middle of a race day! The competition in 1/12 is so close that no one car will give you a clear advantage. Select one car, stick with it and work on setups. You'll learn more and do better with that.
Following what Jiml stated, I usually look for the best performing car that does not break very often, or wear too quickly.

The SpeedMerchant cars have done very good for me compared to CRC or Associated. The Formula front end is very durable and requires little maintenance. The side links are durable and all pivot balls/joints wear slowly compared to other plastic molded side links or Delrin balls. There is no plastic in the front end to break and take you out of the race.
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:22 AM   #31226
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How about the xray x2. Is that any good? Also i live in australia so does anyone know of a brand that is commonly available in australia?

cheers,
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:41 AM   #31227
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Originally Posted by silverfrancis View Post
How about the xray x2. Is that any good? Also i live in australia so does anyone know of a brand that is commonly available in australia?

cheers,
Yes Xray is a good car, just like all the others

Here is what I would do. Go to the local track on a race day and watch for a bit. Try to pick out three fast guys. Then go talk to each one of them about his car, set-up, tires etc. Whichever guy seems to be the most helpful and friendly, buy the the same car he has. That way you know you will be able to get some advise if the car isn't working for you. In fact, he probably even has a good car he could sell you.
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Old 04-28-2009, 08:39 AM   #31228
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Originally Posted by Outerlimits View Post
I am having a problem with my diff and the slapmaster bearing. When I tighten the diff I cant get it right, it is either locked up or slips. I am down to turning it a degree at a time witch is hard. Also its smooth when I rebuild it but dosnt last long. Should I have the Bevel Washer in? I do not as of now. Here is how I am preping my diffs. I first start out sanding the rings with 200 grit to get them flat then working my way up to 600 grit. Then I put a little diff lube into each hole and a light smear on the rings.
Reassembly D-ring, Spur, D-Ring ,Wheel Hub, Slapmaster Spacer, thrust washer, nut. The slapmaster spacer rests on the bearing. I then tight lightly and beak in each side at 1/4 throttle. O this is on a 12R5 with the 10R5 b/l conversion. I do have the correct slapmaster 109. I think?

Thank you for any help


Jake
make sure that the Slapmaster spacer sits down into the bearing race. There is a correct way to install it. The little lip must be towards the bearing. After the spacer you should have a bearing race, the thrust bearing and another bearing race then the nut. I do believe that the 109 kit is correct, the other kits do not have the correct spacer for the converted 12r5. If for some reason you overtightened the thrust initially you could have damaged the thrust bearing.

PM Brian at Slapmaster6000, he will get you straightened out.
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Old 04-28-2009, 10:16 AM   #31229
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Default Molded Main Chassis

http://www.aeforums.co.uk/forum/inde...20&#entry16720

I posted this a while back but the idea still remains as a way to introduce cheaper but high quality 1:12 cars to the market.

Can AE make a 12R5 Molded kit? Yes the main chassis would be molded mini- tub to reduce cost and extra parts. It would be made of the same composist like the TC3 FT was made from. Extra parts elminated becuase the things like the shock mounting block or stand offs plus all the scews to affix them would not be used but molded into the chassis.

Then features like bottom-flush AMB transponder mount could be added. Just mold in the spacers and a AMB transponder could be mounted upsided down and flush with the chassis bottom.

Another feature could be ride-height shim locator. It would be a semi-circle ridge to assist in the placement of the shims. It will allow you to remove the screw from the front bulkhead slide in a spacer and reinsert the screw with little worries about the spacer moving before having the screw back in.

Just a thought to bring in some cheap pan cars for basher asphalt racing. Becuase I would rather race with a replacable $30 composite chassis than worry about if I should put a scratch on my carbonfiber chassis. Yes asphalt is fun, but scratches scares me when I have a new car.
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Old 04-28-2009, 10:40 AM   #31230
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Rev.5 main chassis (SMR1419) - $49.99
Rev.5 bottom plate (SMR1254 motor pod) - $13.95

Under $65 to refresh for carpet season. Not a bad deal if you ask me. As long as this market segment remains full of custom chassis vendors, it will not be equitable enough to justify cutting a mold. Besides, variety is the spice of life.
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