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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-16-2009, 08:59 AM   #31201
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I'm sorry I meant to mention that.

Everyone uses Paragon FX at the track but I have heard rumors that some of the guys are storing their tires with a rubbing of Jack then applying FX at the track.

We are all using Jaco tires front a rear

I don;t know what the carpet is. it's light grey where no cars runa nd is very much like felt.

and it's only about 4 years old.
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:06 AM   #31202
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You will wind up with a grease pit when mixing compounds like that. We just went through a bout of glazing on the tires and figured it to be lots of dirt on the carpet. Vacuuming the rug (not on the black groove) has helped get rid of a lot of the glazing. I have also found that the tires don't glaze where the tires have been doped. So, I tried applying compound like normal, then just before wiping off the tires, apply the compound to the parts of the tire that was dry. Tires come off the track with very little glazing at all.
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:13 AM   #31203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
1.75 rear, 1.65 front.
That is a good race size (1.75" = 44.45mm rear, 1.65" = 41.91mm), but if you have new tires and want to get as much life as possible, start them around 46.00mm REAR, and 44.00mm FRONT. These are about the maximum diameter you can run under some bodies w/o rubbing, car and bodies differ slightly.
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Old 04-16-2009, 11:06 AM   #31204
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Originally Posted by timmay70 View Post
You will wind up with a grease pit when mixing compounds like that. We just went through a bout of glazing on the tires and figured it to be lots of dirt on the carpet. Vacuuming the rug (not on the black groove) has helped get rid of a lot of the glazing. I have also found that the tires don't glaze where the tires have been doped. So, I tried applying compound like normal, then just before wiping off the tires, apply the compound to the parts of the tire that was dry. Tires come off the track with very little glazing at all.

We have been vacumming the track just about every race day and trying to keep it clean. Also how black should the track get. some of the "more seinor" members have said that they have neer seen it this black.

I have noticed that the frint tires get shiny on the parts that did not get doped and around christmas the traction was good but after I have seen that my rears (after dull doping then wiping off) come off just as glazed as the front parts that did not get any doping.

I'm wondering if a shampooing is in order for this carpet? would it harm it?

cheers
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Old 04-16-2009, 11:52 AM   #31205
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Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
We have been vacumming the track just about every race day and trying to keep it clean. Also how black should the track get. some of the "more seinor" members have said that they have neer seen it this black.

I have noticed that the frint tires get shiny on the parts that did not get doped and around christmas the traction was good but after I have seen that my rears (after dull doping then wiping off) come off just as glazed as the front parts that did not get any doping.

I'm wondering if a shampooing is in order for this carpet? would it harm it?

cheers
Your problem stems from mixing the Paragon and the Jack. In the UK, we stopped using the 'smelly' additives some years ago, and we found that some of the alternatives don't mix - especially Paragon and Jack! We have a list of additives that are allowed, and work together OK. Go to www.brca.org, click on 12th Section on the left, and then Race Info from the top. The file is under 'Approved Additives. Stick to this lot (all non-smelly!) and you'll be fine.

Is someone using a TC rubber additive? These are mostly oil based, and also cause problems when mixed.

I am not sure how you cure this problem, but I would start by stating that one or the other additive is allowed only, and stop using the other one. My experience with 'slippery' tracks is that Jack will work better for longer - the car will slide a bit at both ends, but it will at least work a bit better! Either that, or switch to Paragon only.

I hope that helps, and you get it all sorted quite soon!
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Old 04-16-2009, 01:00 PM   #31206
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PARAGON FOR LIFE

sorry had to go there.
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Old 04-16-2009, 02:36 PM   #31207
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:39 PM   #31208
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I run a 4cell GTB in my 12r5. I have seen a few people post that their running a single cell lipo with no problem. I need more information on this. Can anybody tell me more about it. I want to do the same in my car, but I don't know if I will need a booster or a seperate rx pack. I run the old Spektrum receiver (the old solidgrey case), and the 9650 Digital servo from Futaba.
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Old 04-17-2009, 02:12 AM   #31209
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Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
I run a 4cell GTB in my 12r5. I have seen a few people post that their running a single cell lipo with no problem. I need more information on this. Can anybody tell me more about it. I want to do the same in my car, but I don't know if I will need a booster or a seperate rx pack. I run the old Spektrum receiver (the old solidgrey case), and the 9650 Digital servo from Futaba.
Carlos,

I ran a 4 cell and a 9650 with the solid grey spektrum without a booster when I first started running 1 cell lipo in 12th. I can't say that its as fast as a car that has a booster or receiver pack, but I could run 8 minutes with that combo. Gimme a call sometime before y'all come up and we'll chat. I PM'd u my #.
Andrew
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Old 04-17-2009, 09:50 AM   #31210
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Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
I run a 4cell GTB in my 12r5. I have seen a few people post that their running a single cell lipo with no problem. I need more information on this. Can anybody tell me more about it. I want to do the same in my car, but I don't know if I will need a booster or a seperate rx pack. I run the old Spektrum receiver (the old solidgrey case), and the 9650 Digital servo from Futaba.

From everything I've read and heard you can run the GTB without the booster or pack, but the car will feel like its dumping somewhere after the halfway mark. I'd suggest the TQ booster, lefthander is carring them but is currently out of stock.http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...oducts_id=1738 There are a number of other boosters that others are using with good results, some under $10. I've been using the TQ one and have run as long as 10mins with no issues at all with a 13.5 and rolling out around 95mm.
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Old 04-17-2009, 11:37 AM   #31211
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I'm wondering if a shampooing is in order for this carpet? would it harm it?

cheers
what has anybody's experience been cleaning the carpet? we have a dirt track indoor also and try to keep the dust off but wondering if it would be a good idea.
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Old 04-17-2009, 11:56 AM   #31212
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We have a similar situation here.. We shampooed our carpet once, and it worked out quite well.

We used a 'rug doctor' from the local supermarket. Not my favorite machine, but with some finagling, it worked ok. It is nothing more than a scrubber/extractor. We used regular unscented tide detergent. you can actually use bleach if you have mildew/mold problems. If you do use clothes cleaner, make sure it is a detergent, because you are trying to break down the oil base in the traction compound. Also, use it sparingly, and use a lot of defoaming agent - you will need it. I think we wound up using like 1/4 cup per 3 gallons of hot water (as hot as you can get it from the tap).

After you are done and it is dry, the carpet will be as green as the day it was installed. I say go sparingly with the soap, because you want to be sure to extract as much of it you can...
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Old 04-19-2009, 10:11 PM   #31213
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So I find out tonight that the suspected person is using Jack and I gave his a tongue lashing. And did not let him use those tires until they were cleaned with brake cleaner. And Wow I could tell the difference in the consistency of the traction was sooo much better tonight. And I actually got into the A-Main for the first time without bumping up and came in second but only barely. .05 second behind 1st. My best run yet. And all 4 of in the Amain were on the same lap for the first 6 min of the race which is unusual.

Anyways. Enough about me and back to the track. I think I will bring up cleaning the track after the last race (next week). and see it that will help get the junk out of it. and for next year I think we will start testing the compounds to keep everyone honest and keep the track in better condition.

Cheers All
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Old 04-27-2009, 09:40 PM   #31214
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I am having a problem with my diff and the slapmaster bearing. When I tighten the diff I cant get it right, it is either locked up or slips. I am down to turning it a degree at a time witch is hard. Also its smooth when I rebuild it but dosnt last long. Should I have the Bevel Washer in? I do not as of now. Here is how I am preping my diffs. I first start out sanding the rings with 200 grit to get them flat then working my way up to 600 grit. Then I put a little diff lube into each hole and a light smear on the rings.
Reassembly D-ring, Spur, D-Ring ,Wheel Hub, Slapmaster Spacer, thrust washer, nut. The slapmaster spacer rests on the bearing. I then tight lightly and beak in each side at 1/4 throttle. O this is on a 12R5 with the 10R5 b/l conversion. I do have the correct slapmaster 109. I think?

Thank you for any help


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Old 04-27-2009, 09:49 PM   #31215
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Originally Posted by Outerlimits View Post
Reassembly D-ring, Spur, D-Ring ,Wheel Hub, Slapmaster Spacer, thrust washer, nut. The slapmaster spacer rests on the bearing. I then tight lightly and beak in each side at 1/4 throttle. O this is on a 12R5 with the 10R5 b/l conversion. I do have the correct slapmaster 109. I think?

Thank you for any help


Jake
I don't see any mention of a thrust bearing in that assembly process. I assume you are using one?
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