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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-14-2009, 09:44 AM   #31186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
Found this on the ASC site. Anyone know the Dimensions?
#712 Length: 69mm (x2)
Width: 47mm (x2)
Height: 23.2mm (x2)
Discharge: 147A cont., 252A burst
Weight: 283g

Also, they are 2s, not 1s.
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Old 04-14-2009, 10:08 AM   #31187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeH View Post
I put the SMC single cell lipo in my 12R5 this weekend and loved it.

I have the 4-cell GTB with a Trinity 13.5 Duo, spektrum receiver, personal transponder, and Futaba 9650 servo. 78 spur, 39 pinion, 1.75" tire.

No need for a separate receiver battery, or voltage booster.

We ran three quals and a main. At 4 amps the battery charged up in about 30 minutes. TQ'ed and won. It was great not having to tape batteries in all day.

One guy had issues trying to run the SMC single cell with an LRP ESC

There is going to have to be a separate class because of the weight and motor difference using the single cells. It would not be fair for the guys running 17.5 motors, and NiMH batteries.
Wow thats a rollout around 70, thats really low, how big is the track your runing on? Heck I'm rolloing out in the mid 90's on a small carpet track and I'm just on pace with 17.5/nimh and I'm not runing any extra weight.
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Old 04-14-2009, 10:11 AM   #31188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bboy View Post
I thought the Novak 4 cell cannot take Lipo? I can't find it on Novak's website

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/es...ell/index.html

Also do you need to use a slower motor? I currently run the 4.5R, do I need to get a new motor with the 1 cell lipo? I have the spead spectrum version.

Thanks again everyone.

There's no problem with running lipo with the 4cell gtb; no help on the motor as I have'nt tested an mods with the 1s.
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:39 PM   #31189
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I ran my 12R5 today on very low grip asphalt.

I had the best results with front crc black and jaco yellow rear.
I tried also Jaco pink rears but with no success. Interestingly, the grip
was better when i did not sauce the tires. Does this make sense?
Can you guys recommend something better?
BTW. It was a track with a lot of 1/8 gas cars debris.
I also softened the back as much as i could...
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Old 04-14-2009, 04:09 PM   #31190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nutsisneat View Post
I ran my 12R5 today on very low grip asphalt.

I had the best results with front crc black and jaco yellow rear.
I tried also Jaco pink rears but with no success. Interestingly, the grip
was better when i did not sauce the tires. Does this make sense?
Can you guys recommend something better?
BTW. It was a track with a lot of 1/8 gas cars debris.
I also softened the back as much as i could...
I run on low/med grip asphalt also, I've never tried the blacks but I would assume that the yellows did'nt last for many runs. And yes I have better success with no sauce this is due to many factors. In my case while the track is blown off and soda applied the sauce just pickes up the dust that is still present on the track and coates the tires making them super slick. As for a better setup post your complete setup; I've been running dbl pink Jacos all around with decent sucess.
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Old 04-14-2009, 05:29 PM   #31191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nutsisneat View Post
I ran my 12R5 today on very low grip asphalt.

I had the best results with front crc black and jaco yellow rear.
I tried also Jaco pink rears but with no success. Interestingly, the grip
was better when i did not sauce the tires. Does this make sense?
Can you guys recommend something better?
BTW. It was a track with a lot of 1/8 gas cars debris.
I also softened the back as much as i could...
You will want to go with a light center spring andf oil such as an AE silver and maybe 25 wt. oil. Try to stay away from the synthetic tires like yellow and black. They will wear down quickly and not work very well. Tire treatment is very important. Use your normal paragon or jack and let it sit for around 20 minutes. Then get yourself some cheap runny suntan lotion and apply it over the tire treatment and let it sit for at least 15 more minutes. What this will do is keep the dirt from getting imebedded in the foam. Your tires will stay clean for the whole run and you will get much better traction all around. Make sure you wipe the tires off really good before you run. You will need to do some left and right hand circles and let the car do a few spinouts until the tires come in. Also make sure that your pod is level at all 4 corners while at ride height. You should be good.
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Old 04-14-2009, 09:18 PM   #31192
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Just curious, but do most of you guys run 16g. wire all around?
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Old 04-14-2009, 09:24 PM   #31193
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Just curious, but do most of you guys run 16g. wire all around?

Yep
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Old 04-14-2009, 10:47 PM   #31194
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16 ga. here as well.
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Old 04-15-2009, 12:17 PM   #31195
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Thumbs up my cyclone 12x

hi there im sortof new to 1/12 racing and my car i race indoors at a small local carpet track and it is soooo f***ing slipy i cant get around i race a gtb 4 cell with a 4.5r ss motor and i want to no were i can get the right tyres and wheels if possible i want the gripist around now also is it ok to use aditives on the back wheels of it um yer if you can help it would be much apreshiated

thanks mike
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Old 04-15-2009, 06:08 PM   #31196
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Another question, whats a good size to true tires too? Like more for life, as in around 57.00 for TC.
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Old 04-15-2009, 06:12 PM   #31197
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Quote:
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Another question, whats a good size to true tires too? Like more for life, as in around 57.00 for TC.
1.75 rear, 1.65 front.
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Old 04-15-2009, 07:08 PM   #31198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone-12boy View Post
hi there im sortof new to 1/12 racing and my car i race indoors at a small local carpet track and it is soooo f***ing slipy i cant get around i race a gtb 4 cell with a 4.5r ss motor and i want to no were i can get the right tyres and wheels if possible i want the gripist around now also is it ok to use aditives on the back wheels of it um yer if you can help it would be much apreshiated

thanks mike
You're sort of new, and you're already running full mod motors? Try a stock motor. Will help get car control down before you start going blindingly fast.
A good place to get 12th scale tires is Stormer Hobbies out of Montana.
The Jaco's or the CRC's seem to have decent rims, but if you still plan on running mod, get the Jaco's. They have a more flexable rim, so there is more give in a bad wreck.
Finally, YES, it is almost necessary to run rear additive. I've made the mistake of forgetting to put it on, and the handling of the car showed it.
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Old 04-16-2009, 06:39 AM   #31199
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Default Help with track

Ok folks. we (our club) need your vast expertise. We do not know what happened this year but the traction is inconsistent and the layout has not changed all year.

Traction at the beginning of the run is awesome but at the 6 min mark it all goes south for everyone. no matter what tire you are running (I am using white others are using pink, magenta, Grey, yellow.) No Rear tire will last for the whole 8 min. It gets glossy on the surface.

The carpet has gotten quite black where the cars are running and if you put your hand down on the track it will come up black.

We are starting to get ready to put it away for the summer and want to "fix" the carpet so we do not have this issue again next year.

My question then (finally) What is causing the loss of traction and how can we fix it?

Thanks
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Old 04-16-2009, 06:58 AM   #31200
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Not sure. It might help if you told everyone what kind of traction compound most people run at this track.
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