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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-05-2003, 06:01 PM   #3106
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Would it be ok to use the Trinity Real Time 2 for discharging 4 cell packs? I think the voltage cut off per cell is .9 volts, so that would be 3.6 volts for the whole pack, would that be ok? That's pretty darn close to 3.5 volts .
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Old 06-05-2003, 06:42 PM   #3107
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Default about discharging...

Salutations Earthlings!
here's one stummer:
most dischargers on the market discharge the battery as a pack,meaning you connect it using the battery plugs or whatever.
so if certain cells within the pack have a lower capacity, it may end discharge 1st whilst the rest of the cells within the pack continue discharging.this may cause the discharged cell to "reverse"as it is forced to "cough"up current to maintain the battery pack's discharge rate.thsi however is prevented in battery trays which prevent individual cells from discharging once it reaches a certain voltage.
my question is, what about dischargers that discharge individual cells to begin with,<like the 20A discharge tray from integy or apex>the individual cells are discharged using their own circuit so do not affect neighbouring cells. does this mean the cells never reverse?
would it be better then<if this IS the case> to use such a charger instead of dischargers that discharge the pack as a whole?
-FP
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During heats, i use durex for both front and rear, with Hard inserts.

Sorex, i meant Sorex.
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Old 06-05-2003, 08:05 PM   #3108
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when only discharging down to .9 volts per cell, it is ok to just use a device that discharges the whole pack
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Old 06-05-2003, 08:13 PM   #3109
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Graphitedust,

I didn't try it without a resistor, but I think you will be close to your target voltage.

ANY 12 volt relay will work. They all have the same #s on the terminals: 86, 87, 87a, 30 and 31 or 85. They can be purchased at Radio Shack or any auto parts store. Just look at the specs and make sure it has a 12 volt coil in it. Radio shack has a nice little box and a small push button switch. It all fits in the box for about $12.00. I have 2 for 7.2 volt packs.

I also use 10 3157 bulbs in a nice little circle. NO holder needed. Still 2 amps per bulb.

David Root

One question, What should I be using for rollout in 10 scale pan car?? Stock motor or 13x2 mod. 6 cell.

Thanks if anyone can answer.
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Old 06-05-2003, 08:17 PM   #3110
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Default Newracer

I THINK you can discharge the whole pack if you are going down to .9 Volts per cell. Cell reversal only comes around when you are going deep or to 0.0 Volts per cell. SURE a tray is better. I have 2 Integy discharge trays and have to unscrew the bulbs when they go out for NIMH packs or I just use the Smart Tray 2 X 4 from Promatch. It stops at .7 volts per cell so I can't ruin the cells. I only use it once a month and for only 20 minutes like Promatch says.

David Root
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Old 06-05-2003, 09:15 PM   #3111
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that's what I was saying, I wasn't asking. I was replying to foampervert
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Old 06-05-2003, 10:39 PM   #3112
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Default thanks a bunch!but there's more...

Salutations Earthlings!
David Root n Newracer,
thanks for your info!
i feel a lot better knowing i'm not reversing my cells.
another question is:
my charger states battery capacity after a charge is complete.
does this reflect how good the pack is?
for example...
i put my sanyo 3300 pack into my charger and it states 3700 after charge, is this the actual capacity of the pack?
my friend says the only way to find pack capacity is to discharge after a charge using a discharger like orions digital discharger for accurate capacity numbers.
thanks again!
-FP
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During heats, i use durex for both front and rear, with Hard inserts.

Sorex, i meant Sorex.
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Old 06-05-2003, 10:48 PM   #3113
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David Root:

FYI The "Oval, larger scale and more" forum has a "1/10" thread that is 1/10 scale GTP roadcourse pan cars. These guys are out of SoCal raceway and are a very active group for this class! Mark A is the group ringleader and knows ALOT about these cars and I race with him often. These guys are active supporters of this class and will be very happy to help. Any advice from the more active members, MarkA, Thirdplace,Colin,Boomer is good info!

I only race stock with my Associated L2, but they also race mod as well. Here is the most common gearing for SoCal, which should be a fair starting point:

P2K - 18-19 x 84
P2K2 - 17-18 x 84
Monster stock 15-16 x 84

Don't remember off the top of my head what that comes out to in roll-out, but most of us use a full-size tire....our track just seems to like them better than a smaller diameter tire.

Last edited by Graphitedust; 06-05-2003 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 06-06-2003, 01:17 AM   #3114
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Paperboy
This thread is busy tonight.

On the Dynamic strut front end, in order to free up the kingpins to make the steering block move freely, what sized reamer do you use?

And do you ahve to use a reamer, or could I just usae a drill bit? I understand you shouldnt use a power drill, but how about a drill bit in a tap handle? Would that work?

Thanks
i think you shouldn't reamer them, they might get too loose, try polishing the kingpins so that they might flow in smoother.

Also the angle of the upper mount might be binding with the kingpin, re-adjust it to be level with the lower mount.
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Old 06-06-2003, 01:43 AM   #3115
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Paperboy
Went to the track tonoght.
I was working on geting rid of the car's twitchyness, and I ended up doing something completely different. I ended up setting up the car based on how much foam dust was left on the body after the run. Initially, the fronts were wearing more, so I added caster, and it made the wear a lot more even. Not to mention laptimes were down.

Is this a decent way to set your car up, based on even tire wear?

Personally, i prefer that the car should have even tire wear for the duration of the race, this is because, if the tire "cones" you'll get a different response every mnuite of the race...
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Old 06-06-2003, 02:10 AM   #3116
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Default Re: thanks a bunch!but there's more...

Quote:
Originally posted by foampervert
Salutations Earthlings!
David Root n Newracer,
thanks for your info!
i feel a lot better knowing i'm not reversing my cells.
another question is:
my charger states battery capacity after a charge is complete.
does this reflect how good the pack is?
for example...
i put my sanyo 3300 pack into my charger and it states 3700 after charge, is this the actual capacity of the pack?
my friend says the only way to find pack capacity is to discharge after a charge using a discharger like orions digital discharger for accurate capacity numbers.
thanks again!
-FP
Yep... the numbers that come out are important (meaning discharge). The numbers that go in might be deceiving. personally, how a pack feels on track is the next best thing, when we don't have digital dischargers...
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Old 06-08-2003, 10:48 PM   #3117
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Uppppp.....
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Old 06-09-2003, 12:09 AM   #3118
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darnold I'm kinda hazy on what you meant on that one there.......... . Would you mind clarifying that one up.
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Old 06-09-2003, 06:19 AM   #3119
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Quote:
Originally posted by highwayman
Personally, i prefer that the car should have even tire wear for the duration of the race, this is because, if the tire "cones" you'll get a different response every mnuite of the race...
I meant not so much coning, as, the fronts lose .25 mm, and the rears lose .25 mm.

Racerdx6, he was bumping the topic to te top, so it didnt fall off the page.
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Old 06-09-2003, 07:43 AM   #3120
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cool... sorry, probably mis-read...

that's good, even tire wear for the front and rear... we kinda wear out the front faster than the rear...
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