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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-07-2009, 09:12 AM   #31156
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So why don't we see more of this t-bar design in 1:12 cars? Is there some disadvantage to it? I'm thinking we will see this design with the 1S LiPO on the way.
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:08 AM   #31157
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Here's a pic of the SP12M with the t-bar at the same level as the main chassis. Looks like it could be a great design for the LiPo users out there...

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Old 04-07-2009, 02:35 PM   #31158
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In all seriousness, if you are looking for the ideal design for LiPo, the BMI DB12 is the one to have.
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Old 04-07-2009, 02:40 PM   #31159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
In all seriousness, if you are looking for the ideal design for LiPo, the BMI DB12 is the one to have.
I agree but really any link car is ideally suited for lipo mounting. CRC, 12R5, etc.
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Old 04-07-2009, 03:21 PM   #31160
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Just thinking this could be another choice for 12th car racers that prefer a t-bar setup rather than a link type chassis.
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Old 04-07-2009, 03:35 PM   #31161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Just thinking this could be another choice for 12th car racers that prefer a t-bar setup rather than a link type chassis.
The only drawback to this design and using the current single cell lipos available would be bridging the T bar/bottom motor pod plate. The T bar would come in contact with the lipo limiting the movement of the T bar and therefore, changing the handling characteristics of the car. You would have to raise the battery to allow the T bar to move.

There will soon be single cell lipos in saddle pack configuration.
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Old 04-07-2009, 03:59 PM   #31162
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Lowering the pivot points for the t-bar that much would change the roll center a lot. I agree with Crash, just wait for the saddle lipos, they are coming...
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Old 04-07-2009, 04:41 PM   #31163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck View Post
Lowering the pivot points for the t-bar that much would change the roll center a lot. I agree with Crash, just wait for the saddle lipos, they are coming...

I gave OD one of these...

http://www.maxamps.com/Lipo-2200-111-Saddle.htm

And he took it apart and made two 3.7 saddle packs out of it!!! The only problem is that they are still just a little too long and pushes the speed control and receiver a little too far forward but nowhere near as bad as a SMC single cell lipo jammed on to one side of the car. We need a pack that is 34mm X 34mm. Oh, and the two packs came out at only 8mm tall. Very low.
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Old 04-07-2009, 05:29 PM   #31164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby View Post
I gave OD one of these...

http://www.maxamps.com/Lipo-2200-111-Saddle.htm

And he took it apart and made two 3.7 saddle packs out of it!!! The only problem is that they are still just a little too long and pushes the speed control and receiver a little too far forward but nowhere near as bad as a SMC single cell lipo jammed on to one side of the car. We need a pack that is 34mm X 34mm. Oh, and the two packs came out at only 8mm tall. Very low.
Perhaps OD would be so kind as to post up some pics of this, would be interesting to see. As to someone making a saddle lipo I dont really see the demand, all the new cars (BMI, 12r5, CRC) except the serpent and xray are all 1cell lipo frendly. I just cannot see how a battery company can make enought profit for such a small segment of the market.
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Old 04-07-2009, 05:47 PM   #31165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Perhaps OD would be so kind as to post up some pics of this, would be interesting to see. As to someone making a saddle lipo I dont really see the demand, all the new cars (BMI, 12r5, CRC) except the serpent and xray are all 1cell lipo frendly. I just cannot see how a battery company can make enought profit for such a small segment of the market.
There are a LOT of 12L's, CEFX, HB, Serpent, Xray, T-Force, etc. etc. cars still out there. Though personally, I am loving the EnrG 4600's. NiMH aint dead yet
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Old 04-07-2009, 06:59 PM   #31166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
There are a LOT of 12L's, CEFX, HB, Serpent, Xray, T-Force, etc. etc. cars still out there. Though personally, I am loving the EnrG 4600's. NiMH aint dead yet
I agree, Wingracer!! I love my 4600 nimh batteries but I am sure that they are going to go by the wayside eventually. So we had better get used to it and plan for it.
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Old 04-07-2009, 07:07 PM   #31167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Perhaps OD would be so kind as to post up some pics of this, would be interesting to see. As to someone making a saddle lipo I dont really see the demand, all the new cars (BMI, 12r5, CRC) except the serpent and xray are all 1cell lipo frendly. I just cannot see how a battery company can make enought profit for such a small segment of the market.
I know he did not document the procedure in film but itís really pretty easy. The batteries used in this procedure, are not in a hard case so unwrapping them was easy. Once apart, it was just a matter of soldering new wires to the existing, copper, solder tabs. All of the lipos I have disassembled have the wires welded to the battery tabs as solder will not stick to the material used in making lipos. He just soldered some new wires to the copper welded to the lipo tabs, put some heat shrink around them and there you have a 3.7v lipo saddle pack. As I said, they are a little longer than I would like but not as long as a SMC 1c lipo. As soon as I get my new Novak booster which shipped out today, I will put them in a car and try them out. Of course I always charge in a sack.

I will see if OD can take a picture of one of the packs as my camera does not take good close ups.
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Old 04-07-2009, 08:02 PM   #31168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Just thinking this could be another choice for 12th car racers that prefer a t-bar setup rather than a link type chassis.
Since I have the car and have run the 1 cell lipo in a SpeedMerchant Rev5, I could give it a try. I quit racing the car on carpet, but outside, it is a very good car still.

The end caps made enough room for the t-bar to pivot. All you would have to do is to remove the two inside nubs and let the outside ones sit on the chassis. I'll ask Danny at SMC if there is any issue with removing the center nubs.
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Old 04-07-2009, 09:10 PM   #31169
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yes Saddle pack designed 12th scale cars are still in use, however the saddle pack has a much more universal application as opposed to the single pack that is currently out on the market -

I would be interested to see what the weight is of the saddle pack made from the soft case is versus the SMC pack currently on the market.
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Old 04-07-2009, 09:25 PM   #31170
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a single cell lipo is 3.7 volts

three cell nimh is 3.6 volts

a123 cell is 3.3 volts

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