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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-29-2009, 11:34 AM   #31126
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The chassis design was originally done by Matt Bouchet, who originally designed the car on his own during the time we ran brushed motors. That car is the joint effort of Matt and Team Kwik. Nick from team Kwik decided to surprise Matt at the IIC this year with that built show car.

Matt Bouchet, a senior at UNH studying mechanical engineering died at age 22 in September. He had been battling cancer.

That car still sits hanging in Nick's bench at the local track. There aren't any plans currently to pursue it.
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Old 03-29-2009, 12:05 PM   #31127
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Very nicely done, looks the same as the design I'm doing atm.
Especially the rear damping looks good, thats the thing I'm having problems with.
Sad to hear the designer passed away at such a young age....
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Old 04-01-2009, 10:52 PM   #31128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup View Post
I think you should be ok. You will have to go to 64 pitch because I think it would be hard to find 48 pitch gears as small as some of the new 64pitch gears. i think 72 is about as small as you can get. also remember that you need to probably bevel your t-bar. that will get you a couple 3 teeth more. I think I was able to get a 96/40 into the l4 so you should be able to get 76/54 which is probably the tallest you will see with a 17.5 unless we are talling 1s lipo. then i think we will se 72/72 some day
Thanks all for your thoughts on this; here is an update:

I found some small D-Rings, turns out the TC3 diff's use them so I had them already. With that I was able to put a 48P 60T spur on and with a 17.5T brushless mounted all the way up against the t-plate I could fit a 38T pinion. This makes a 96mm rollout, perfect for the 85-95mm rollout range I'm hearing the 17.5T's want.

So I'm building a 12L3 with a 35T/60T, 90mm rollout, 17.5 brushless.
New Huntington Beach California track opens in 2 weeks; getting excited.
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Old 04-02-2009, 01:23 AM   #31129
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Thanks for the reply regarding the chassis's in the pics. I have seen this type of thing done in a bigger class but not on a 12th car. Sorry to hear the news about the designer though, not good at all.
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Old 04-02-2009, 01:59 PM   #31130
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Done some searching but comming up blank; since Novak's booster hasn't hit the market yet, who else makes one to convert 1 cell LiPo up to our requirements?
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Old 04-02-2009, 02:33 PM   #31131
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TQ Cells in canada makes and cells a voltage booster.

It has been mentioned in other post. I believe its mentioned in the Tekin post concerning 1cell lipo.
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Old 04-02-2009, 04:04 PM   #31132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceBucks View Post
Done some searching but comming up blank; since Novak's booster hasn't hit the market yet, who else makes one to convert 1 cell LiPo up to our requirements?

Im currently running the 3.7v lipo with the GTB 4 Cell SS ESC and encountering no issues whatsoever without a booster.

I have one booster ordered just to be safe - knock on wood, but no issues as yet with the servo, or the transponder. 6 minutes or 8 minutes.

Your mileage may vary.
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Old 04-02-2009, 05:07 PM   #31133
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Originally Posted by Yaksaddle View Post
Im currently running the 3.7v lipo with the GTB 4 Cell SS ESC and encountering no issues whatsoever without a booster.

I have one booster ordered just to be safe - knock on wood, but no issues as yet with the servo, or the transponder. 6 minutes or 8 minutes.

Your mileage may vary.
I see you're running a Serpent. Could you post a picture of your car? I've set up a T-Fource with a lipo, so I'm interested to see how you've done it. Plus, what's the total weight and how does it balance out?
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Old 04-02-2009, 05:22 PM   #31134
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I posted it in one of the other threads let me find it - 7.4v 2 cell lipo on a 1/12 scale? its the serpent in their that looks horribly messy - im re-wiring it all Friday night for Saturday...

total weight right now with the brass lipo plate from Stormers is right at 794grams, I picked up some different brass plates today to try out a different idea I had.

left to right front and back is currently a work in progress - but it wasnt off by much last weekend when I checked it - I just picked up 2 scales to build my own balance scale.

Absolutely LOVE the S120, BTW
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Old 04-02-2009, 07:44 PM   #31135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yaksaddle View Post
total weight right now with the brass lipo plate from Stormers is right at 794grams, I picked up some different brass plates today to try out a different idea I had.

left to right front and back is currently a work in progress - but it wasnt off by much last weekend when I checked it - I just picked up 2 scales to build my own balance scale.
You should be aiming for 720 - 730g, unless your local track requires you to be at the current weight requirements.
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Old 04-02-2009, 08:04 PM   #31136
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They do.
I picked up a different set of lipo weights so I can have more options with moving weight around to see what helps improve handling.

My 10th scale is so neglected now that I have been bitten by the 12th scale bug - I have more fun playing with that than I ever imagined I would!
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Old 04-03-2009, 02:39 PM   #31137
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Done some searching but comming up blank; since Novak's booster hasn't hit the market yet, who else makes one to convert 1 cell LiPo up to our requirements?
Lefthander rc has the TQ Cells Booster instock. I ordered mine last night.
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Old 04-06-2009, 08:05 AM   #31138
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Side shock or Damper tubes?

I was thinking of converting my 1/12th you use an AE side shock for damping instead of damper tubes to reduce maintenance. Are there any major advantages/disadvantages in using a shock over damper tubes?
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Old 04-06-2009, 08:09 AM   #31139
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Side shock or Damper tubes?

I was thinking of converting my 1/12th you use an AE side shock for damping instead of damper tubes to reduce maintenance. Are there any major advantages/disadvantages in using a shock over damper tubes?
Don't ask me, I still use the good old discs
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Old 04-06-2009, 08:27 AM   #31140
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Side shock or Damper tubes?

I was thinking of converting my 1/12th you use an AE side shock for damping instead of damper tubes to reduce maintenance. Are there any major advantages/disadvantages in using a shock over damper tubes?
I think the major advantage would be that you don't have to maintain the shock as much. Damper tubes require periodic cleaning and refilling to keep them consistent. Also one tube could dry or empty earlier than the other making the car handle differently one way than the other. The shock should just be fill it and forget it, at least for a lot longer than the tubes.
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