R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-25-2009, 06:04 AM   #31111
Tech Master
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck View Post
A few years back Trinity made some rear wheel spacers for their 12th scale lineup. They were designed to be used inside the wheel to keep the screw heads from digging into the plastic wheel. You may be able to use those to shim out the wheel on the hub. The part number is TRI90572. Picture at http://www.kimihiko-yano.net/Product...e/TRI90572.jpg

Another option would be to space out the axle and use the Niftech pinion shaft extender http://www.niftech.com/catalog.php?mode=4000 and some short boss pinions to line up the pinion and spur. That would keep the wheels running a lot more true than trying to space them out at the wheel hub.

-James

Perfect!!!! that is exactly what I'm looking for. as long as they are less then 3mm it is going to work perfectly
jdeadman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2009, 11:31 AM   #31112
V12
Tech Elite
 
V12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,640
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
I have'nt seen anyone make a spacer that fits between the wheel and hub
Fibrelyte in the UK make those spacers from graphite.
V12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2009, 12:00 PM   #31113
Tech Master
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

I have browsed thir site and cannot find any refrence to that 1/12 rear wheel brace

do you have a link to the product or it's number?
jdeadman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2009, 12:03 PM   #31114
Tech Addict
 
RaceBucks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Huntington Beach, Ca.
Posts: 512
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Need some help gearing a 17.5T right.

I'm getting back into 1/12 after a several year absence, looking to run the 17.5T class and have a 12L3. With my motor pressed up against the t-plate, I can't find the spur/pinion to fit in the space to give the 85-95mm+ runout that I hear these motor want.

If I stick with 48P, the smallest spur I find is 65T with the holes for the large diff rings that I have; I have seen a 60T but it only has holes for the small diff rings, but I can't seem to find small diff rings being sold, plus I think I'd need a few other parts. So then the largest pinion that I can shove in is a 27T with the 65T spur or 32T if I find small diff rings and can use the 60T spur. So best I seem to do is a 63mm runout with the 65T/27T or maybe 80mm if I find a way to use the 60T/32T combo.

During searches I saw mention of different pods for brushless; is this what people are doing to get more room? If they are creating a longer pod for more clearance, wouldn't that screw up the wheelbase so bodies wouldn't fit? I see a new pod mentioned on the CRC web site but it doesn't look like it's for a t-plate car. If this is the solution who's making a pod for a t-plate?

People must be doing this, I saw that IIC'08 had an entire class of 17.5T 1/12ths.
How are people doing this?

Thanks,
Jeff Smith
__________________
"We face each other as God intended. Sportsman-like. No tricks, skill against skill alone." -Fezzik
RaceBucks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2009, 02:10 PM   #31115
Tech Elite
 
Trips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: 360 Speedway
Posts: 2,251
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Most of us are running 64 pitch gearing. You can get spurs down as small as 76 and 72 teeth with the ball holes that suit large diff rings. I've used spurs from RW and PRS, both make good stuff.

For pinions, PRS or BMI will have a good selection. I was running 48/76 with my 17.5 4 cell car.
__________________
MARSHAL!!
Trips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2009, 02:19 PM   #31116
Tech Elite
 
chris moore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phx AZ
Posts: 3,661
Trader Rating: 85 (99%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceBucks View Post
Need some help gearing a 17.5T right.

I'm getting back into 1/12 after a several year absence, looking to run the 17.5T class and have a 12L3. With my motor pressed up against the t-plate, I can't find the spur/pinion to fit in the space to give the 85-95mm+ runout that I hear these motor want.

If I stick with 48P, the smallest spur I find is 65T with the holes for the large diff rings that I have; I have seen a 60T but it only has holes for the small diff rings, but I can't seem to find small diff rings being sold, plus I think I'd need a few other parts. So then the largest pinion that I can shove in is a 27T with the 65T spur or 32T if I find small diff rings and can use the 60T spur. So best I seem to do is a 63mm runout with the 65T/27T or maybe 80mm if I find a way to use the 60T/32T combo.

During searches I saw mention of different pods for brushless; is this what people are doing to get more room? If they are creating a longer pod for more clearance, wouldn't that screw up the wheelbase so bodies wouldn't fit? I see a new pod mentioned on the CRC web site but it doesn't look like it's for a t-plate car. If this is the solution who's making a pod for a t-plate?

People must be doing this, I saw that IIC'08 had an entire class of 17.5T 1/12ths.
How are people doing this?

Thanks,
Jeff Smith

You will have a very hard time; if at all possible; setting up a spec brushless in a 12l3. As brushless has overtaken the hobby the car builders have made the pods longer; and in the case of new brushless centered pods shifted them slightly to the drive side. This is offset by shortening the main chassis so the overall length has stayed close to the same.
__________________
Sponsered by:

CMDezigns Paint Works
https://www.facebook.com/pages/CM-Dezigns/259989190822177?ref=hl
chris moore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2009, 05:55 PM   #31117
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: El Mirage, AZ, USA
Posts: 1,140
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I have a 12l4w my rollout is 1.43-1.49 can I only use 64 pitch first of all and what is the spur and pinion
Bubonic-X is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2009, 09:12 PM   #31118
Tech Elite
 
chris moore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phx AZ
Posts: 3,661
Trader Rating: 85 (99%+)
Default

Where's Scott he's the resident mathmatican, but I think we need the tire size in order to work the math.
__________________
Sponsered by:

CMDezigns Paint Works
https://www.facebook.com/pages/CM-Dezigns/259989190822177?ref=hl
chris moore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2009, 12:35 AM   #31119
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 900
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceBucks View Post
Need some help gearing a 17.5T right.

I'm getting back into 1/12 after a several year absence, looking to run the 17.5T class and have a 12L3. With my motor pressed up against the t-plate, I can't find the spur/pinion to fit in the space to give the 85-95mm+ runout that I hear these motor want.

If I stick with 48P, the smallest spur I find is 65T with the holes for the large diff rings that I have; I have seen a 60T but it only has holes for the small diff rings, but I can't seem to find small diff rings being sold, plus I think I'd need a few other parts. So then the largest pinion that I can shove in is a 27T with the 65T spur or 32T if I find small diff rings and can use the 60T spur. So best I seem to do is a 63mm runout with the 65T/27T or maybe 80mm if I find a way to use the 60T/32T combo.

During searches I saw mention of different pods for brushless; is this what people are doing to get more room? If they are creating a longer pod for more clearance, wouldn't that screw up the wheelbase so bodies wouldn't fit? I see a new pod mentioned on the CRC web site but it doesn't look like it's for a t-plate car. If this is the solution who's making a pod for a t-plate?

People must be doing this, I saw that IIC'08 had an entire class of 17.5T 1/12ths.
How are people doing this?

Thanks,
Jeff Smith
If you buy an LRP X11 motor, you can fit an endplate that is 1.5mm shorter than the standard one. Not only does that make it fit onto L3 and L4 pods as easily as a brushed motor, it also centres it up. I've used this for ages without any problems.

I currently have a 12L4 built up with BL in it using this LRP part...

http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...ory=6001xxxxxx

...and the motor fits the pod without any problems. HTH
SlowerOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2009, 06:23 AM   #31120
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

Hi guys, I thought I'd post a pic of the track that we raced on last Sunday. This was the last round of our SW Winter Series. TQ was 42 laps. Cheers, Chris.

wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2009, 09:29 AM   #31121
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Mclean, VA
Posts: 3,940
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

What are the brushless mod motors of choice these days for 1:12? LRP X-12, Trinity Pulse??? Looking to buy a 4.5 and 5.0.
Apex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2009, 10:24 AM   #31122
Tech Elite
 
theisgroup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,191
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceBucks View Post
Need some help gearing a 17.5T right.

I'm getting back into 1/12 after a several year absence, looking to run the 17.5T class and have a 12L3. With my motor pressed up against the t-plate, I can't find the spur/pinion to fit in the space to give the 85-95mm+ runout that I hear these motor want.

If I stick with 48P, the smallest spur I find is 65T with the holes for the large diff rings that I have; I have seen a 60T but it only has holes for the small diff rings, but I can't seem to find small diff rings being sold, plus I think I'd need a few other parts. So then the largest pinion that I can shove in is a 27T with the 65T spur or 32T if I find small diff rings and can use the 60T spur. So best I seem to do is a 63mm runout with the 65T/27T or maybe 80mm if I find a way to use the 60T/32T combo.

During searches I saw mention of different pods for brushless; is this what people are doing to get more room? If they are creating a longer pod for more clearance, wouldn't that screw up the wheelbase so bodies wouldn't fit? I see a new pod mentioned on the CRC web site but it doesn't look like it's for a t-plate car. If this is the solution who's making a pod for a t-plate?

People must be doing this, I saw that IIC'08 had an entire class of 17.5T 1/12ths.
How are people doing this?

Thanks,
Jeff Smith

I think you should be ok. You will have to go to 64 pitch because I think it would be hard to find 48 pitch gears as small as some of the new 64pitch gears. i think 72 is about as small as you can get. also remember that you need to probably bevel your t-bar. that will get you a couple 3 teeth more. I think I was able to get a 96/40 into the l4 so you should be able to get 76/54 which is probably the tallest you will see with a 17.5 unless we are talling 1s lipo. then i think we will se 72/72 some day
__________________
yang lai

Team Tamale | Team Tekin | RCAmerica | Speedmerchant | Speedzone RC | EA Motorsports | Ko Propo USA | eXpress Motorsports | Parma/PSE
theisgroup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2009, 04:00 PM   #31123
V12
Tech Elite
 
V12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,640
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
I have browsed thir site and cannot find any refrence to that 1/12 rear wheel brace

do you have a link to the product or it's number?
brace? I think you mean the spacers. Donīt know where itīs hiden on their website.
AMC in the UK sell the Fibrelyte wheel spacers and front ride height spacers. http://www.actionmodelcentre.co.uk/products.asp?cat=250
BTW one of the best 1/12th scale shops. I have ordered from them 2 times now.
V12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2009, 09:41 AM   #31124
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

Hi guys, could anyone identify what this chassis is please? Neat idea of joining the pod to the main chassis plate but who's design is it? Cheers!



wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2009, 10:43 AM   #31125
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,639
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Interesting. Essentially a three link with a panhard bar.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:05 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0