R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 09-20-2017, 01:39 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: Skiddins
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Rear - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Front - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
DISCONTINUED 1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!


If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!

Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:
Pan Car Front Suspension Tuning:
DISCLAIMER : The following tuning advice was written based on the tuning experience of the author and may not hold true for all cars, drivers, or surfaces. In the end the best tuning advice is to experiment and make changes one at a time so you can track your changes and find the car balance that works best for your driving style. One real world test is worth a million ‘expert’ opinions.

Front End Type:

All popular modern pan car front suspensions are very similar, with a few exceptions such as Speedmerchant New School but most of the info in this wiki applies to them as well. For the most part, they consist of a rigid bottom arm, an upper A-arm, and a kingpin with a spring. There are different flavors of this general design, such as the CRC Dynamic Strut that uses a threaded kingpin and upper pivot ball instead of the Associated style that uses a kingpin that goes through the entire steering knuckle assembly, but their operation is the same with the rigid lower arm and the upper arm controlling the arc of movement as the suspension is compressed.

Assembly:

More so than in almost any other part of the car, the front suspension of your 1/12 car must move absolutely free. Reamers and hobby knives are important here, as any binding will cause the car to corner unpredictably. A little play in the suspension is a good thing, and racers will often find that ‘worn in’ suspension pieces function a little better than new.

Springs:

Besides tires, spring rate is the most important part of deciding how your car will handle through corners, but are somewhat complicated. As a general rule of thumb, a very hard front spring will have somewhat less steering grip than a softer spring with the same suspension setup and tires, but not as much as in other classes such as touring or offroad. On carpet, springs of different tension can be used to tune how your car will maintain or lose energy through corners with the following general rule of thumb:

Hard Spring (0.55mm or harder): Less overall steering, quick reaction to driver input, less on power steering, harder turn-in with potentially lazy mid-corner and exit.

Soft Spring (.45mm): More overall steering especially at low speed, slightly slower reaction to driver input, more on-power steering, less aggressive turn-in but can ‘hook’ and give better mid-corner and exit.

It is worth noting that front springs from different suppliers are often very different, in both height, wire thickness, and coils for a given spring height meaning that a “medium” spring from one manufacturer may be the “hard” spring for another. To make accurate changes you may want to use one spring maker and stick with their line.

Another aspect to pan car springs is that they can get “blown out” and collapse, no longer as stiff or as tall as they were. These should be replaced with fresh springs to ensure consistent handling.

Dampening:

This is generally a minor adjustment, but adding dampening tube fluid to the front kingpins of a 1/12 car can give it a little more initial steering. Often unusual compounds see use here, such as Losi Smart Diff Grease or Associated Green Slime being a popular front kingpin lube.

Caster and Reactive Caster:

Caster is the angle of the kingpin, almost always angling back to the rear of the car, with a typical range from 0-10 degrees. Increasing your caster will typically result in less turn-in but a little more control, more steering exiting the corner, and somewhat increased straight-line stability with less tendency to wander because a wheel running caster will tend to straighten itself. Less caster will usually give you more off-power steering, but often with correspondingly less on-power when accelerating out of the corner.

Running reactive caster attempts to use both of these aspects to increase overall steering: when the car loads up on the outside front tire, the caster angle decreases, increasing the front end ‘hook’ as you enter the corner and then giving you the high caster on-power steering as you exit and weight is transferred off the front end. More reactive caster means more overall steering, but can mean you may have to adjust your driving style to drive more ‘ahead of the car’, needing to predict where the front end will grip.

As grip increases, less reactive caster is the normal tuning change made to keep the front end of the car from gripping too hard and oversteering and prevent traction roll. Static caster adjustments are still used to change the cars on power / off power steering balance.

Reactive Camber and Front Roll Center:

Reactive camber or camber gain is how much camber is added the front wheels as the suspension compresses. This can be increased or decreased by changing the angle and length of the top arm. Short, angled arm = more. Long, flat arm = less. More reactive camber will typically cause the car to “roll up” on the outer front wheel, transferring more weight in a turn and give more steering up to the point at which the tire is overloaded. This is generally more front grip and weight transfer than wanted on carpet, and as a result most cars run a flatter longer front arm.

Roll Center is the point on which the car will twist laterally or ‘roll’ during cornering. This can be raised or lowered by changing the angle and length of the top arm, with a short angled arm raising is slightly and a long flat arm lowering it. From what I have calculated most modern 1/12 cars meant for carpet have a roll center somewhere around the height of the chassis plate or just below it, but due to the lower arms being rigid and flat the roll center cannot be under the bottom of the tires like it often is on a touring car.
These two are inexorably linked in pan cars. Top arm length can be changed by the top arm mount in or out using shims or a CRC Long Arm kit, but is generally a minor tuning choice. Tuning of roll center with shims is usually a minor tuning choice in a pan car with a rigid bottom arm due to how the car cannot gain extra mechanical advantage on the lower arm as you can in a touring car, while reactive camber can be a significant driver of the car’s performance. In a modern car running on carpet the kit setup is usually perfectly fine.

Front End Alignment:

Static camber is the angle of your front wheels at rest, typically somewhere from 0 to 1.5 degrees on a pan car depending on surface, tire choice, and other factors, but a good starting point is usually somewhere around 0.5 degrees. More camber will typically give more steering, but many racers use static camber to ensure that their tires wear flat even if that means not having exactly equal camber on both sides of the car. This is adjusted by threading in and out the upper turnbuckle or pivot ball.

It is also worth noting that when running on high grip the flex and deformation of your chassis, suspension parts, and front wheels can become significant and cause uneven front tire wear. Some troubleshooting of the right combination of static camber, camber gain, caster, and tire/rim choice may be necessary to ensure even front tire wear.

Toe-In:

The front toe is one of the more easily adjusted aspects of the car and can have a significant effect on the attitude of the car due to it being a quick way to moderately adjust Ackerman without making significant other changes. With nothing else being adjusted, going from zero toe to toe-in will give a car a harder turn-in and will tend to scrub speed with the front end as opposed to using drag brake. This can be necessary when racing in Super Stock or higher power classes and will allow you to drive more aggressively, and can help the car track straighter under power. Toe-out will tend to make the car coast more through corners due to reducing the steering angle of the outer front tire. If a car has too much off-power steering but is otherwise stable, adding toe-out can calm the car but may the car to wander on the straights especially if the front end setup is very soft.

Ackerman:

Ackerman is the difference in steering angle between the two front tires during a turn. It is the result of how during a turn the inside of the car experiences a tighter circle and needs correspondingly more steering angle, but is also an important tuning tool. More Ackerman means having more inside wheel steering angle relative to the outer wheel, less means that the difference in steering angle is smaller.

To add or remove Ackerman, using a servo horn that spaces the links further apart (such as a Kimbrough Small Servo Saver, the outer holes on a Tamiya or Xray servo saver) will have more Ackerman than a servo that puts the links close together (Kimbrough Medium inner holes, Tamiya or Xray inner holes.) The rule of thumb is that a servo that puts the ball studs close together but spaced away from the servo horn will have less Ackerman than one that spaces them far apart and close to the servo horn. Ackerman changes will have the same effect as changing toe with more Ackerman being effectively toeing the wheels out and less toeing them in, but will not affect the straight-line attitude of the car.

Turning Circle / Steering Angle:

In offroad or even touring car you can set up the car to use the full angle of the steering 100% of the time. You will almost certainly not be able to do this in 1/12 scale. It goes without saying that as you turn up your steering angle you will gain steering often to the point of the car being undriveable. The quickest way to set the steering correctly is to set the sub-trim in your radio such that the car tracks straight and the servo horn is straight up and down, then set the endpoints equally such that they don't quite hit the steering bump-stops, then turn down the dual-rate or total throw from there. A typical starting point is somewhere between 45 and 60% of the total steering throw, or a 4-5' turning circle.
SOMEONE ELSE DO THE REAR TUNING SECTION! AND A TROUBLESHOOTING TREE! FEEL FREE TO MAKE YOUR OWN CHANGES!

Print Wikipost

Like Tree62Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-24-2009, 03:20 PM   #31096
Tech Elite
 
Trips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: 360 Speedway
Posts: 2,251
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

if I'm not mistaken, it's a 2.5mm x 6mm socket head cap screw.
__________________
MARSHAL!!

Last edited by Trips; 03-24-2009 at 03:34 PM.
Trips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2009, 03:24 PM   #31097
Tech Elite
 
chris moore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phx AZ
Posts: 3,763
Trader Rating: 87 (99%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips View Post
if I'm not mistaken, it's a 3-48 by 1/4" socket head cap screw.

Thanks Trips, I had looked at the CRC and IRS websites but could'nt find the size listed anywhere just the replacement part #'s
__________________
Sponsered by:

CMDezigns Paint Works
https://www.facebook.com/pages/CM-Dezigns/259989190822177?ref=hl
chris moore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2009, 03:26 PM   #31098
Tech Elite
 
entitymugenmtx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northridge ca
Posts: 2,117
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to entitymugenmtx
Default

Hello guys I NEED SOME HELP WITH GEARING I have a serpent s120 the stock spur gear is too big for the track where I run at. The track size is not that big and not that small. I’m looking for a good set up with gearing, right now I’m running a 13.5 Novak with a 35 pinion and 88 spur it feels like there is not a lot of power what’s a good set up to start with it
__________________
SPONSORS.....MY CHECKBOOK....
entitymugenmtx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2009, 03:32 PM   #31099
Tech Regular
 
Yaksaddle's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 447
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Yaksaddle
Default

I also have a S120 on a smaller track - try 84-88 for your spur and 42-46 for your pinion - See how that works in different combinations
__________________
Serpent S400 - LRP - SMC
Serpent S120 Novak - SMC 3.7v
Yaksaddle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2009, 03:37 PM   #31100
Tech Master
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,366
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
These are the spacers that Jason made for the Jacos.
http://www.bmiracing.com/webstore/ca...f9470643c45c60
Yea I saw those but they look like they go between the rear pod bearing and the diff. which is now what i want to do. I'm looking for a spacer for between the tire and hub (where the screws go) so it keeps the spur close to the pod
jdeadman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2009, 03:38 PM   #31101
Tech Elite
 
Trips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: 360 Speedway
Posts: 2,251
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Thanks Trips, I had looked at the CRC and IRS websites but could'nt find the size listed anywhere just the replacement part #'s
Chris... I had to edit that post, turns out it's actually a 2.5mm x 6mm in the left hub, according to the GenX manual. Sorry bout that.
__________________
MARSHAL!!
Trips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2009, 03:45 PM   #31102
Tech Elite
 
chris moore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phx AZ
Posts: 3,763
Trader Rating: 87 (99%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Yea I saw those but they look like they go between the rear pod bearing and the diff. which is now what i want to do. I'm looking for a spacer for between the tire and hub (where the screws go) so it keeps the spur close to the pod
I have'nt seen anyone make a spacer that fits between the wheel and hub I also have the corrally car but I'm using the long corrally pinions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips View Post
Chris... I had to edit that post, turns out it's actually a 2.5mm x 6mm in the left hub, according to the GenX manual. Sorry bout that.
Got it, make my mind up already
__________________
Sponsered by:

CMDezigns Paint Works
https://www.facebook.com/pages/CM-Dezigns/259989190822177?ref=hl
chris moore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2009, 03:52 PM   #31103
Tech Master
 
JamesArluck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,233
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to JamesArluck
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
I was running 167mm (with jaco 3mm offset rear tires) then I got a set of zero offset older jaco tires off a fellow racer and really noticed how that extra 6mm helped the handeling alot. I got better lap times and overall more consistancy.

So when I went back to the new style GRP balloons as the guy's like to call them (35mm rims with 52mm total OD foam. I started to shim the rear axle 3mm per side and noticed that I had to offset the pinion about halfway off of the motor shaft.

So I am currently looking for spacers to go between the tire and hub mounting face that are 3mm to get that room on the spur side without moving the spur too far out.

I heard that BMI has some spacers but I have yet to find any pictures of them
A few years back Trinity made some rear wheel spacers for their 12th scale lineup. They were designed to be used inside the wheel to keep the screw heads from digging into the plastic wheel. You may be able to use those to shim out the wheel on the hub. The part number is TRI90572. Picture at http://www.kimihiko-yano.net/Product...e/TRI90572.jpg

Another option would be to space out the axle and use the Niftech pinion shaft extender http://www.niftech.com/catalog.php?mode=4000 and some short boss pinions to line up the pinion and spur. That would keep the wheels running a lot more true than trying to space them out at the wheel hub.

-James
JamesArluck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2009, 04:48 PM   #31104
Tech Elite
 
Grenade10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 4,673
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
I also have the corrally car but I'm using the long corrally pinions.
Are you running brushed or brushless? Rinkrat99 is trying to get the brushless gearing, which for our track should be around 76/48. Corally stops at the mid 30's with 64 pitch gears.
__________________
Darkside, Sweep, BSR, Fantom, IGT Hobbies and IGT8
Byrons Fuel, ProtoForm Bodies & Futaba Radio Gear by Choice
Founding Member of CORRC .... 5280raceway
www.darksidems.com www.igthobbies.com www.IGT8.com
Grenade10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2009, 04:58 PM   #31105
Tech Regular
 
Impulse_racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 250
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Does anyone know the size of the screw for the left side clamping hub?

Thanks
Chris
Chris if you are still running the DB12RR the screw in the left side clamping hub is a 3-48, not a metric screw.
__________________
Xray T3 EU
KO Propo Helios
Tekin RS Pro/LRP X-12/Venom LiPo
Hudy
Litemodz CVS
Impulse_racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2009, 06:02 PM   #31106
Tech Elite
 
entitymugenmtx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northridge ca
Posts: 2,117
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to entitymugenmtx
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx View Post
Hello guys I NEED SOME HELP WITH GEARING I have a serpent s120 the stock spur gear is too big for the track where I run at. The track size is not that big and not that small. I’m looking for a good set up with gearing, right now I’m running a 13.5 Novak with a 35 pinion and 88 spur it feels like there is not a lot of power what’s a good set up to start with it
ANYONE ELSE WITH SOME TIPS
__________________
SPONSORS.....MY CHECKBOOK....
entitymugenmtx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2009, 06:34 PM   #31107
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,179
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Corally cars have always needed long-boss pinions - using short-boss pinions and the incorrect axle spacing will affect the handling. See long-boss pinions on the Corally site under 'Parts', 'Car Accessories'.

Run the rear of the Corally at 170mm to get the car to steer well. HTH
You can also get a shaft extender from Niftech to use regular pinions with the Corally. With a BL motor you will need to cut down the shaft some.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2009, 07:05 PM   #31108
Tech Adept
 
butrflynlambie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 192
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

I am putting together an 1/12 and see that I need to purchase a servo saver.

I have an airtronics mini servo. Is this the appropriate servo saver?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4581
butrflynlambie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2009, 07:36 PM   #31109
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,192
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by butrflynlambie View Post
I am putting together an 1/12 and see that I need to purchase a servo saver.

I have an airtronics mini servo. Is this the appropriate servo saver?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4581
That one will work
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2009, 08:48 PM   #31110
Tech Elite
 
chris moore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phx AZ
Posts: 3,763
Trader Rating: 87 (99%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
Are you running brushed or brushless? Rinkrat99 is trying to get the brushless gearing, which for our track should be around 76/48. Corally stops at the mid 30's with 64 pitch gears.
I stayed with my only brushed setup in that car. I got the car in a trade and just wanted to try out the corally frontend. The only way to do brushless that I know of is to use the shaft extender that James linked, I have'nt ever tried one of those but with it you could use any brand pinion and get to the ratios needed for brushless.
__________________
Sponsered by:

CMDezigns Paint Works
https://www.facebook.com/pages/CM-Dezigns/259989190822177?ref=hl
chris moore is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 04:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 01:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 07:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 08:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:18 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net