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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-24-2009, 04:20 PM   #31096
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if I'm not mistaken, it's a 2.5mm x 6mm socket head cap screw.
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Last edited by Trips; 03-24-2009 at 04:34 PM.
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Old 03-24-2009, 04:24 PM   #31097
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if I'm not mistaken, it's a 3-48 by 1/4" socket head cap screw.

Thanks Trips, I had looked at the CRC and IRS websites but could'nt find the size listed anywhere just the replacement part #'s
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Old 03-24-2009, 04:26 PM   #31098
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Hello guys I NEED SOME HELP WITH GEARING I have a serpent s120 the stock spur gear is too big for the track where I run at. The track size is not that big and not that small. Iím looking for a good set up with gearing, right now Iím running a 13.5 Novak with a 35 pinion and 88 spur it feels like there is not a lot of power whatís a good set up to start with it
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Old 03-24-2009, 04:32 PM   #31099
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I also have a S120 on a smaller track - try 84-88 for your spur and 42-46 for your pinion - See how that works in different combinations
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Old 03-24-2009, 04:37 PM   #31100
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
These are the spacers that Jason made for the Jacos.
http://www.bmiracing.com/webstore/ca...f9470643c45c60
Yea I saw those but they look like they go between the rear pod bearing and the diff. which is now what i want to do. I'm looking for a spacer for between the tire and hub (where the screws go) so it keeps the spur close to the pod
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Old 03-24-2009, 04:38 PM   #31101
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Thanks Trips, I had looked at the CRC and IRS websites but could'nt find the size listed anywhere just the replacement part #'s
Chris... I had to edit that post, turns out it's actually a 2.5mm x 6mm in the left hub, according to the GenX manual. Sorry bout that.
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Old 03-24-2009, 04:45 PM   #31102
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Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Yea I saw those but they look like they go between the rear pod bearing and the diff. which is now what i want to do. I'm looking for a spacer for between the tire and hub (where the screws go) so it keeps the spur close to the pod
I have'nt seen anyone make a spacer that fits between the wheel and hub I also have the corrally car but I'm using the long corrally pinions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips View Post
Chris... I had to edit that post, turns out it's actually a 2.5mm x 6mm in the left hub, according to the GenX manual. Sorry bout that.
Got it, make my mind up already
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Old 03-24-2009, 04:52 PM   #31103
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Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
I was running 167mm (with jaco 3mm offset rear tires) then I got a set of zero offset older jaco tires off a fellow racer and really noticed how that extra 6mm helped the handeling alot. I got better lap times and overall more consistancy.

So when I went back to the new style GRP balloons as the guy's like to call them (35mm rims with 52mm total OD foam. I started to shim the rear axle 3mm per side and noticed that I had to offset the pinion about halfway off of the motor shaft.

So I am currently looking for spacers to go between the tire and hub mounting face that are 3mm to get that room on the spur side without moving the spur too far out.

I heard that BMI has some spacers but I have yet to find any pictures of them
A few years back Trinity made some rear wheel spacers for their 12th scale lineup. They were designed to be used inside the wheel to keep the screw heads from digging into the plastic wheel. You may be able to use those to shim out the wheel on the hub. The part number is TRI90572. Picture at http://www.kimihiko-yano.net/Product...e/TRI90572.jpg

Another option would be to space out the axle and use the Niftech pinion shaft extender http://www.niftech.com/catalog.php?mode=4000 and some short boss pinions to line up the pinion and spur. That would keep the wheels running a lot more true than trying to space them out at the wheel hub.

-James
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Old 03-24-2009, 05:48 PM   #31104
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
I also have the corrally car but I'm using the long corrally pinions.
Are you running brushed or brushless? Rinkrat99 is trying to get the brushless gearing, which for our track should be around 76/48. Corally stops at the mid 30's with 64 pitch gears.
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Old 03-24-2009, 05:58 PM   #31105
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Does anyone know the size of the screw for the left side clamping hub?

Thanks
Chris
Chris if you are still running the DB12RR the screw in the left side clamping hub is a 3-48, not a metric screw.
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Old 03-24-2009, 07:02 PM   #31106
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Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx View Post
Hello guys I NEED SOME HELP WITH GEARING I have a serpent s120 the stock spur gear is too big for the track where I run at. The track size is not that big and not that small. Iím looking for a good set up with gearing, right now Iím running a 13.5 Novak with a 35 pinion and 88 spur it feels like there is not a lot of power whatís a good set up to start with it
ANYONE ELSE WITH SOME TIPS
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Old 03-24-2009, 07:34 PM   #31107
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Corally cars have always needed long-boss pinions - using short-boss pinions and the incorrect axle spacing will affect the handling. See long-boss pinions on the Corally site under 'Parts', 'Car Accessories'.

Run the rear of the Corally at 170mm to get the car to steer well. HTH
You can also get a shaft extender from Niftech to use regular pinions with the Corally. With a BL motor you will need to cut down the shaft some.
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Old 03-24-2009, 08:05 PM   #31108
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I am putting together an 1/12 and see that I need to purchase a servo saver.

I have an airtronics mini servo. Is this the appropriate servo saver?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4581
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Old 03-24-2009, 08:36 PM   #31109
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Originally Posted by butrflynlambie View Post
I am putting together an 1/12 and see that I need to purchase a servo saver.

I have an airtronics mini servo. Is this the appropriate servo saver?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4581
That one will work
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Old 03-24-2009, 09:48 PM   #31110
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Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
Are you running brushed or brushless? Rinkrat99 is trying to get the brushless gearing, which for our track should be around 76/48. Corally stops at the mid 30's with 64 pitch gears.
I stayed with my only brushed setup in that car. I got the car in a trade and just wanted to try out the corally frontend. The only way to do brushless that I know of is to use the shaft extender that James linked, I have'nt ever tried one of those but with it you could use any brand pinion and get to the ratios needed for brushless.
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