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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-20-2009, 08:31 AM   #31036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhock View Post
I run 44-46mm tires. Ive been messing with the 189 with my labtop but when i run boost at max it doesnt seem any faster. Our track has alot of turns in it so there isnt much straight speed. I am going again today to keep messing with my setup. Anymore suggestions? Not sure if this helps, but the track is Debbiesrcworld in Chesapeake, VA indoor carpet.
When I started with 189, I dropped 10 teeth with full boost. I would take all the timing out of the motor. This will give you better acceleration out of the corners. Then start upping the pinion size for the straight / temp. Keet the motor under 160, or you'll see some drop off at the end of an 8 min race.

What motor brand are you running? 17.5? Lap times?
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:53 AM   #31037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhock View Post
I run 44-46mm tires. Ive been messing with the 189 with my labtop but when i run boost at max it doesnt seem any faster. Our track has alot of turns in it so there isnt much straight speed. I am going again today to keep messing with my setup. Anymore suggestions? Not sure if this helps, but the track is Debbiesrcworld in Chesapeake, VA indoor carpet.
Here you go: (81-Tooth Spur)

46mm - 37T Pinion = 65.98 Rollout
46mm - 36T Pinion = 64.20 Rollout
46mm - 35T Pinion = 62.41 Rollout

45mm - 38T Pinion = 66.29 Rollout
45mm - 37T Pinion = 64.54 Rollout
45mm - 36T Pinion = 62.80 Rollout

44mm - 39T Pinion = 66.52 Rollout
44mm - 38T Pinion = 64.82 Rollout
44mm - 37T Pinion = 63.11 Rollout

There are obviously more variables to this, but the ratio's are good starting points. Secondly, I would follow the gearing others at your track run with similar motors and ESC's.
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:14 AM   #31038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhock View Post
I run 44-46mm tires. Ive been messing with the 189 with my labtop but when i run boost at max it doesnt seem any faster. Our track has alot of turns in it so there isnt much straight speed. I am going again today to keep messing with my setup. Anymore suggestions? Not sure if this helps, but the track is Debbiesrcworld in Chesapeake, VA indoor carpet.
debbies is pretty small. I was there and ran the previous layout. Had a speed passion 10.5 with an lrp sphere and was rolled out around 61mm. i had good speed in the infield and on the straights. most of the guys will remember me. car ran pretty good. I had the wrong tires. was running magenta fronts and pink rear. I think if I had some double ping rears, the car would have been untouchable.


lmk if you need any help. they guys at debbies are great, trying to figure out how I can get my company to pay for another trip
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:20 AM   #31039
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anyone got a link to all suitable servo's for 12th cars

one's I've listed so far are

Futaba S9602
Futaba S9650
Savox SH-1350
KO Propo PDS-947
Sanwa SRM-141HRZ
Sanwa SRM-141AL

looking for the specs also

list your servo and specs please
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:53 AM   #31040
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I'll be at debbies tomorrow. I'm still running brushed though so not sure how much help I'll be. I know whatever set-up Mike Anderson has been using is ballistic (RS with tekin 10.5).

As for tires, magenta/pink is kicking ass for me.
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:58 AM   #31041
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Hi all,

I'm hoping I can get a little input and insight from the more experience 1/12th drivers out there. I just started 1/12th this season (indoor carpet) with a 12R5 and I've been having a blast but I'm struggling to get my car to carry as much corner speed as some of the others I race against.

I've been running the kit setup typically with Yellow rears and Lilac fronts and while the car is fairly easy to drive it seems to push a bit in the corners. It's ballistically fast on the straights with a 17.5 BL and Tekin RS Pro ESC.

Is it typically better to have the car really hooked up with softer tires that allow the car to "carve" harder through the turns or is it better to run harder tires and let the car sort of slide around the corners. I understand the physical changes that changing springs/caster/camber etc. make on the car, I'm just unsure of under what circumstances I'd want to make a change to get the car to carry the most speed through corners.

Sorry for the long-winded post but any insight would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Mike
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:59 AM   #31042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
I know whatever set-up Mike Anderson has been using is ballistic (RS with tekin 10.5).
get those settings and post them here please, it's what I'm running
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Old 03-20-2009, 10:04 AM   #31043
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I don't know his settings but I suspect it's 189 with max boost, minimum physical timing. All you need is to figure out the rollout and rock and roll.
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Old 03-20-2009, 10:20 AM   #31044
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Hyper Mike,

IT's going to depend on the type of push... if it's pushing in the first part of the corner (off power) you can get a little more steering there by making the shock a bit longer (a bit more pod droop) IF the push is mid corner, you can gain some on power steering by raising the front attachment point of the shock a bit.

If it's a double-steer kind of push (starts to steer in, then lets go) try a little heavier oil in the side shock.

IF you feel the need for a little more steering everywhere, I'd go with the next step firmer side springs.

The 12R5 comes with .020 front springs, I wouldn't go lighter than that under most circumstances.

You might also consider trying a set of grey low or orange rear tires. THEse are the same as Yellows, but with a thin outer ring of grey near the sidewall. THese will let the car rotate a bit more than the yellows when the car is in the corners. Going to greay rears will let the car rotate even more.

The 12R5 comes with the gold 12lb spring standard... most of us are running the 14lb red spring on the center shock of our cars (link cars) Changing from the gold to red will let the car rotate a bit better everywhere... that could be all the change you need...

OF course, the simplest solution might just be to treat a wider portion of the front tire before the run... if you're saucing the inner third of the tire, try saucing the inner half... IF I feel I need to sauce more than half the front tire, I usually look elsewhere for the solution though.

I think my first move would be to try the red spring on the shock... keeping everything else the same for now. If I still wanted more overall steering, I'd go one step up on the side springs.

Out of curiosity, what body are you running? It can make a big difference in the balance of the car...
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Old 03-20-2009, 10:40 AM   #31045
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For the guys cleaning the tires with lighter fluid between rounds is it because the tires are getting a build up on them? I typically don't clean my tires during the day and my car get's faster and faster all day long, but the two tracks I frequent their isn't any build up on the tires. Thanks.
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Old 03-20-2009, 10:51 AM   #31046
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I don't always clean, but sometimes the car comes off the track with a diorty buildup on the tires, it almost looks "salt and peppery". When I see that I clean it up with the lighter fluid. Also I'll clean them if the tires come off the track feeling at all tacky or gummy.

Without the cleaning, the grip increases from one run to the next. If there is plenty of grip in the track already, that can slow your lap times down... if I feel I have plenty of grip, I clean. If I feel like a little more grip could help, I don't...
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Old 03-20-2009, 11:23 AM   #31047
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Trips...thank you very much for the reply.

I would characterize it as a general lack of steering everywhere through the corners...I just don't seem to be able to enter or drive through the corner as quickly as I'd like/as others seem to be able to do.

I'm already saucing the fronts at 1/2 to 3/4 which was part of the reason I was thinking I should look elsewhere for a solution.

I had tried Jaco grey rears but found that I just couldn't get the forward drive I was looking for that I get with the softer tires. Who makes the Orange tires you referenced?

I think I'll try your suggestion of going to the red center spring and see how that feels and maybe try the next step harder side springs if I need more.

Is there a point at which having too much turn-in and overall steering would actually make the car slower or should I be looking for as much steering as I can get while still having the car driveable?

BTW I'm using a Black Art (CRC) closed cockpit body and it seems to work pretty well.

Thanks again,

Mike
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Old 03-20-2009, 11:42 AM   #31048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
Trips...thank you very much for the reply.

I would characterize it as a general lack of steering everywhere through the corners...I just don't seem to be able to enter or drive through the corner as quickly as I'd like/as others seem to be able to do.

I'm already saucing the fronts at 1/2 to 3/4 which was part of the reason I was thinking I should look elsewhere for a solution.
For the general overall lack of steering I think you'll like the red spring better. IT should give you some more everywhere.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
I had tried Jaco grey rears but found that I just couldn't get the forward drive I was looking for that I get with the softer tires. Who makes the Orange tires you referenced?
Jaco makes the oranges, CRC makes the "grey-low". IF you didn't like the loss of forward drive with greys, you probably won't like the oranges either. I noticed a loss of forward bite with them compared to yellows, it made the car pretty sketchy off the corners.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
I think I'll try your suggestion of going to the red center spring and see how that feels and maybe try the next step harder side springs if I need more.
That's where I'd start... the slightly longer shock and raising the front of the shock suggestions are subtle changes... I don't think either would be right to get more steering everywhere... I use them more to fine tune entry and exit steering balance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
Is there a point at which having too much turn-in and overall steering would actually make the car slower or should I be looking for as much steering as I can get while still having the car driveable?
There's definitely a point where you can have too much steering... when you get there the car will feel slow in the corners... like having the brakes on while turning... no slide, but slow. Slow off the corners too. IF the car feels like it has good rip exiting corners, you're probably not at the point of too much grip in front... but when you DO get there it's not immediately apparent that that's what's happening... it's like your lap times just fall off and you're not sure why...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
BTW I'm using a Black Art (CRC) closed cockpit body and it seems to work pretty well.
I'm running that body too. Great balance, easy to drive. The Parma Speed8 lightweight might feel like it has a touch more steering than the Black Art, but my laps are a little faster with the Black Art.
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Old 03-20-2009, 12:32 PM   #31049
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Trips,

Thanks again for all your help...I really appreciate it.

I'm going to try the red spring (and if necessary a few other things) tonight at our club race and hopefully I can dial it in!

Cheers,
Mike
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Old 03-20-2009, 02:50 PM   #31050
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Sorry guys...one more (dumb) question for Trips or anyone else!

When would you choose to go to a softer front tire or harder rear tire to gain more turning versus making changes to springs/shock position/etc?

For example I could change from Lilac front tires to Dbl Pink front tires OR I could change to the stiffer shock spring to get more turning. When would you choose to do one over the other? Is there any difference?

Sorry to be a pain!

Cheers,
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