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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-18-2009, 05:01 PM   #31021
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thanks a lot for your help
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Old 03-19-2009, 02:30 AM   #31022
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I also use a RPM camber guage that you can also use for the castor settngs as well. Just line it up against the kingpin and it'll tell you what caster setting you have. As for toe in/out, I set the steering so that the servo saver is in the central position and then use the marker lines on my HUDY setup board to get the wheels running at a very slight toe in or straight ahead. Seems an easy way to do it although NIFTECH make a very snazzy tool for setting the toe angle. Cheers.
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Old 03-19-2009, 06:54 AM   #31023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
I will no doubt be corrected if wrong, but our nationals run over 2 days. Saturday is for 19t or 10.5 motors only whilst Sunday is broken down into 2 classes: Sportsman (12t limit) or Open (whatever mod or brushless you like). There are also a couple of 2 day events for each class as well. Most, if not all events are fully booked out and do indeed have the best drivers competing at them. It's amazing to watch the finals as you may think that you are a good driver, but nothing compared to them when they are putting 4 or 5 laps on you!
You're pretty much there except that sports modified (sportsman) is 12T brushed or you can use your 10.5 brushless again, giving you the chance to use the same motor for both days. The majority of drivers use 10.5 brushless in sports modified as well as stock.

We have just as many drivers entering the stock class (19T/10.5T) as we do the modified classes. In the UK we do only have the 3 classes in total though.

The Chesterfield meeting was the modified grand prix meeting where you run the same class over the two days with 6 qualifiers and 3 finals (mains) (best 2 of 3 count) with a couple of practice rounds added, so 11 runs over the weekend.

I was running in sports modified and actually found the track a lot less technical than it first looked. Very flowing actually and a lot of fun to drive.

All the 3 open modified A finals were pretty awesome to watch with Andy M, Elliott and Andy G pulling a bit of a gap on the rest, but the others weren't exactly slouches either!

Trev
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Old 03-19-2009, 07:44 AM   #31024
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For front toe I use a set of calipers. I measure the distance from the inside of each wheel at the back and then at the front then figure the difference. this doesn't give you degrees of toe but a measurement. I typically run about .5-1mm of toe-out and then adjust from there depending on how the car is feeling on the track. Every racer needs a good set of calipers!
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Old 03-19-2009, 11:38 AM   #31025
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Default Slapmaster Thrust Bearing

Just a quick question from a 1/12th noob for the experts!

I just picked up a Slapmaster thrust bearing for my 12R5 and I'm unsure of how (or if) I should lubricate the thrust bearings themselves.

On touring car or buggy diffs I was taught to pack the thrust bearing with lots of thick Assoc. black grease. Is that what I should be doing with the Slapmaster? If not, then how should I approach it?

Thanks in advance,

Mike
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Old 03-19-2009, 12:08 PM   #31026
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Associated black grease is great for the thrust bearing, but don't use lots o fit, most of it will just sling of. A little dab will do ya.
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Old 03-19-2009, 12:08 PM   #31027
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Mike, ya you want a little bit in there. Not as much as a normal diff cause it will flig out.

DK
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Old 03-19-2009, 12:56 PM   #31028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
For front toe I use a set of calipers. I measure the distance from the inside of each wheel at the back and then at the front then figure the difference. this doesn't give you degrees of toe but a measurement. I typically run about .5-1mm of toe-out and then adjust from there depending on how the car is feeling on the track. Every racer needs a good set of calipers!
Is that .5 to 1mm of difference between the front and rear of the tire?

I use about 1mm difference between the front and rear
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Old 03-19-2009, 03:16 PM   #31029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
Just a quick question from a 1/12th noob for the experts!

I just picked up a Slapmaster thrust bearing for my 12R5 and I'm unsure of how (or if) I should lubricate the thrust bearings themselves.

On touring car or buggy diffs I was taught to pack the thrust bearing with lots of thick Assoc. black grease. Is that what I should be doing with the Slapmaster? If not, then how should I approach it?

Thanks in advance,

Mike
The Slapmaster himself has told me either no grease or if you must put a little on your finger and roll the bearing in between your thumb and finger to coat all the balls.
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Old 03-19-2009, 03:56 PM   #31030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Is that .5 to 1mm of difference between the front and rear of the tire?

I use about 1mm difference between the front and rear
yes.
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Old 03-19-2009, 05:40 PM   #31031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
For front toe I use a set of calipers. I measure the distance from the inside of each wheel at the back and then at the front then figure the difference. this doesn't give you degrees of toe but a measurement. I typically run about .5-1mm of toe-out and then adjust from there depending on how the car is feeling on the track. Every racer needs a good set of calipers!
Be sure to do this from the same height on the rim front and rear. Otherwise you'll get an inaccurate measurement. Ideally, middle of the rim yields the most accurate measurement.
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Old 03-19-2009, 05:51 PM   #31032
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What kind of gearing/rollout you guys using on your 12th scales? I have been messing with this for awhile now and i feel i dont have the speed. I am using the RS with redline 10.5 in a 12R5. Let me know. I have a 81 tooth spur.
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Old 03-19-2009, 06:32 PM   #31033
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Originally Posted by jhock View Post
What kind of gearing/rollout you guys using on your 12th scales? I have been messing with this for awhile now and i feel i dont have the speed. I am using the RS with redline 10.5 in a 12R5. Let me know. I have a 81 tooth spur.
You need to be around a 65mm rollout +/- with a 10.5 depending on the size of track and layout.

Knowing the spur size does not help us help you calculate the proper pinion to reach the rollout w/o knowing the tire diameter too.
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Old 03-19-2009, 06:57 PM   #31034
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Originally Posted by jhock View Post
What kind of gearing/rollout you guys using on your 12th scales? I have been messing with this for awhile now and i feel i dont have the speed. I am using the RS with redline 10.5 in a 12R5. Let me know. I have a 81 tooth spur.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kn7671 View Post
You need to be around a 65mm rollout +/- with a 10.5 depending on the size of track and layout.

Knowing the spur size does not help us help you calculate the proper pinion to reach the rollout w/o knowing the tire diameter too.
Another factor is that if your using the 189 software from what I've read many guys are reporting that thay had to drop several pinion teeth after going to that version of software. And your lack of speed could be related to the boost and timing that your running your esc at. It could be that your gearing is good and you just need to tweak the esc settings some.
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Old 03-20-2009, 07:32 AM   #31035
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I run 44-46mm tires. Ive been messing with the 189 with my labtop but when i run boost at max it doesnt seem any faster. Our track has alot of turns in it so there isnt much straight speed. I am going again today to keep messing with my setup. Anymore suggestions? Not sure if this helps, but the track is Debbiesrcworld in Chesapeake, VA indoor carpet.
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