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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-17-2009, 02:00 AM   #31006
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We are running a Corally 5.0 star wind on our Gen-x and the rollout has been between 32 - 35 mm depending on the track.

With a 4.5 motor most people seem to start dumping their batteries around 7:40 or so. Only factory sponsored guys seem to have good enough batteries to last the whole 8 minutes. Rollout should propably be in the 30-33 mm region.

Jumping to mod from stock you might want to go with a little bit less power and have a much easier car to drive.
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Old 03-17-2009, 02:02 AM   #31007
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The 4.5 was the best I could find. Would I really have a problem with my bats dumping even if I turn the power down?

THanks for the help
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Old 03-17-2009, 02:03 AM   #31008
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And another thing, will I set the punch/EPA on the throttle down or gear shorter to make it easier?
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Old 03-17-2009, 02:10 AM   #31009
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I would not go too low with punch setting on the ESC. On an LRP at least you need to have min. setting 4 to have reasonably linear throttle. Lower settings will make the throttle feel like you had negative expo on it.

On the gearing you should try to be quite close to the sweet spot.

I would suggest testing with mildly lowered throttle EPA setting. If that feels OK then you might increase rollout too while also keeping an eye on the temp.
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Old 03-17-2009, 02:16 AM   #31010
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Thanks a lot man!

That really helps... I would have put the first gear on I could find and run till either me or the car breaks OKay not really... But I'm new to mod. I'm running a LRP Sphere TC spec in there, so I'll put it on 4 to start and check the temps as I gear it...
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Old 03-17-2009, 02:28 AM   #31011
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If your motor is an LRP X12 it likes to go very hot (like you burn the finger on it = over 100 C).
Other mod motors temps will be high but you should be able to keep a finger on it at least 1-2 seconds. If you have a temp gun aim at not going over 80 degrees Celcius, which will already be very hot to touch.
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Old 03-17-2009, 02:31 AM   #31012
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I have a DX3S with telemetry. So I should set it up and use it for once

I'm using a 4.5T Hobbywing motor, so it should be similar to a Speed Passion motor.
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Old 03-17-2009, 02:57 AM   #31013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarkko View Post
Only factory sponsored guys seem to have good enough batteries to last the whole 8 minutes.
Actually, the factory sponsored guys have good enough trigger fingers to make their batteries last the whole 8 minutes.

The factory guys having the best batteries is one of the oldest myths in R/C racing. Drivers become factory guys by putting it in the show at major races. You have to be able to make time and finish strong to do that.
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Old 03-17-2009, 06:01 AM   #31014
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Default UK National Championship Videos and Photos

Photos and videos from the last UK BRCA 12th scale national meeting of the season at Chesterfield are now available at www.carsrcracing.co.uk. There are videos of the open modified A main leg 3 (Andy Moore vs Elliott Harper vs Andy Griffiths amongst others) and the sports modified (10.5 BL/12T BR) A main leg 3. Photos include shots of the new Kawada link car.

Videos are on the main page of the site or can be accessed from www.youtube.com/carsrcracing, a direct link to the photos is http://www.carsrcracing.co.uk/galler...09/cfieldgp09/.

Enjoy

Trev
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Old 03-17-2009, 09:23 AM   #31015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips View Post
Actually, the factory sponsored guys have good enough trigger fingers to make their batteries last the whole 8 minutes.

The factory guys having the best batteries is one of the oldest myths in R/C racing. Drivers become factory guys by putting it in the show at major races. You have to be able to make time and finish strong to do that.
That is absolutely true except for back in the 1200-1700 mah days they also had much better batteries to go along with their superior trigger fingers.

These days things seem to be much more even. The top pros might still have a bit of a battery advantage at the big races but masterful driving can still win out.
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Old 03-18-2009, 04:30 AM   #31016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer View Post
anyone running the Team Orion Vortex Race Spec ESC in 12th?

your thoughts on it

what settings are you using for 10.5bl?
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Old 03-18-2009, 08:22 AM   #31017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
Photos and videos from the last UK BRCA 12th scale national meeting of the season at Chesterfield are now available at www.carsrcracing.co.uk. There are videos of the open modified A main leg 3 (Andy Moore vs Elliott Harper vs Andy Griffiths amongst others) and the sports modified (10.5 BL/12T BR) A main leg 3. Photos include shots of the new Kawada link car.

Videos are on the main page of the site or can be accessed from www.youtube.com/carsrcracing, a direct link to the photos is http://www.carsrcracing.co.uk/galler...09/cfieldgp09/.

Enjoy

Trev
That track looks very technical! Some very good drivers in that race.

Why can't we (USA) have big 1/12 scale only races like that? This sounds terrible but it seems to me like the Euo's do a more professional job with big races. Every photo or video I see looks like a Formula one race from the pits to the track layout to the large numers of great drivers in attendance. Maybe it is because they race modified only? This groups a large number of drivers into one class not allowing things to get to dilluted...

Just my opinion.
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Old 03-18-2009, 04:26 PM   #31018
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I will no doubt be corrected if wrong, but our nationals run over 2 days. Saturday is for 19t or 10.5 motors only whilst Sunday is broken down into 2 classes: Sportsman (12t limit) or Open (whatever mod or brushless you like). There are also a couple of 2 day events for each class as well. Most, if not all events are fully booked out and do indeed have the best drivers competing at them. It's amazing to watch the finals as you may think that you are a good driver, but nothing compared to them when they are putting 4 or 5 laps on you!
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Old 03-18-2009, 04:30 PM   #31019
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I have a serpent s120 I wanted to know how I can get the right camber and toe? Do they make a tool for it
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Old 03-18-2009, 04:34 PM   #31020
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for camber I use the RPM camber gauge. Serpent also make a camber gauge that you could use. For toe, I usually just eyeball it to stat then make fine adjustments based on how the car drives. Niftech makes a toe gauge if you prefer to go that route.
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