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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-06-2009, 09:28 AM   #30946
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Magenta fronts sounds good but what rear tire are you using?

Try a harder center shock spring.
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Old 03-06-2009, 09:43 AM   #30947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Hey,

I have really enjoyed this thread and it has really helped me out a lot in getting started in 1/12 Racing.

Not I have been doing a lot or reading on setup and I have the Setup sheet that evirobs posted in this thread

And the only thing I do not how to change is mid to exit steering.

Currently my car turns into the corners very well but as the car get over that first turn in it starts to push and I end up giving it more steering input and slowing down more than I should to keep my line.

Is there a trick to setting the steering so you get both good turn in and mid to exit cornering ability?

Thanks and my setup is below

CRC Bloody knife (3.2R)
front CRC Pro-strut (from GenX) with .5 mm (stock springs)
Front tire - Magenta (purple pushes way too much)
Side Springs - Red
Damper tubes - crc heavy silicone oil
.75 to 1.25 mm droop on rear pod with Associated Silver Spring
Rear shock oil 30 wt
Rear shock position (more level with the ground than stock)
Itís in the center hole of the aerial mount and the shock is inverted so the adjuster is towards the rear

Thanks again for any input
Lighter side tube lube, 5000 wt. and 40wt. in the center shock with .5mm droop.
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Old 03-06-2009, 09:46 AM   #30948
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Default LRP Speeder camp fire

I was trying to set the 1/12th scale car up for lipo this week and ran into a problem. It's a LRP Sphere, a novak 13.5 motor, SMC single cell lipo, a 300mah 2 cell rec. pack. I plugged both batteries in and turned the switch on and the speeder started to smoke. Unplugged everything before it really smoked. double checked everythign and tried it again with the same results. Any ideas?
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Old 03-06-2009, 09:47 AM   #30949
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You have to leave the speed control switch off when using a receiver pack.
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Old 03-06-2009, 11:25 AM   #30950
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Sorry I forgot that. The rears I am currently using Grey and trued to 46mm I started using magenta, then went to pinks but they were both not able to told the grip thru 8 min. about the 5 min mark the rear end got really loose and liked to power slide. Which looked cool but took about 2 seconds off my lap time
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Old 03-06-2009, 12:52 PM   #30951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasmopar View Post
I was trying to set the 1/12th scale car up for lipo this week and ran into a problem. It's a LRP Sphere, a novak 13.5 motor, SMC single cell lipo, a 300mah 2 cell rec. pack. I plugged both batteries in and turned the switch on and the speeder started to smoke. Unplugged everything before it really smoked. double checked everythign and tried it again with the same results. Any ideas?

I assume that a 2cell lipo pack? You need a reg on there so you only put 5 or 6v to the system instead of the 8v your putting in with out it. That would be why it smoked.

I run the same stuff in mine. Started with a 5cell rx pack (6v) and then down to a 4 cell (4.8v). Now I have a booster. Leave the speedo off and just turn on the rx pack or if you use a booster then turn the speedo on.

DK
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Old 03-06-2009, 01:00 PM   #30952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Hey,

I have really enjoyed this thread and it has really helped me out a lot in getting started in 1/12 Racing.

Not I have been doing a lot or reading on setup and I have the Setup sheet that evirobs posted in this thread

And the only thing I do not how to change is mid to exit steering.

Currently my car turns into the corners very well but as the car get over that first turn in it starts to push and I end up giving it more steering input and slowing down more than I should to keep my line.

Is there a trick to setting the steering so you get both good turn in and mid to exit cornering ability?

Thanks and my setup is below

CRC Bloody knife (3.2R)
front CRC Pro-strut (from GenX) with .5 mm (stock springs)
Front tire - Magenta (purple pushes way too much)
Side Springs - Red
Damper tubes - crc heavy silicone oil
.75 to 1.25 mm droop on rear pod with Associated Silver Spring
Rear shock oil 30 wt
Rear shock position (more level with the ground than stock)
Itís in the center hole of the aerial mount and the shock is inverted so the adjuster is towards the rear

Thanks again for any input
What reactive caster block do you have in there? Where are your shims for your upper a arm?

I have a CK and heres most of my setup.

.02 ae springs
5 deg block with all the shims forward
.5 deg camber
white side springs
30wt/copper or silver spring and a little 5,000 on the tubes.
Black front and grey rear tires (jaco)

Try the white side springs. It helps to rotate the car in the tight corners. Also a lighter lube in the tubes helps it transistion faster.

HTH
DK
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Old 03-06-2009, 06:58 PM   #30953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
What reactive caster block do you have in there? Where are your shims for your upper a arm?

I have a CK and heres most of my setup.

.02 ae springs
5 deg block with all the shims forward
.5 deg camber
white side springs
30wt/copper or silver spring and a little 5,000 on the tubes.
Black front and grey rear tires (jaco)

Try the white side springs. It helps to rotate the car in the tight corners. Also a lighter lube in the tubes helps it transistion faster.

HTH
DK
I am using the 10 degree reactive caster block and camber at -1.5 degree caster at 4 degrees (1 forward 2 rear)

I just got a set of .45mm front springs at the LHS

I see that you are running 0 degrees caster I thought that the more caster (to a point) the more steering????

anyways I will try that thanks


Oh and what is the deal with black front tires. I thought that the darker the colour the harder the tire but when I talked to the LHS guys they said that black is an exception and it is really soft?

Anyone have a good tutorial on the jaco tire compounds and the effects on handling?

thanks again
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Old 03-07-2009, 02:12 AM   #30954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Anyone have a good tutorial on the jaco tire compounds and the effects on handling?
http://bmiracing.com/bmiv4/index.php...d=15&Itemid=30
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Old 03-07-2009, 05:28 AM   #30955
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Quote:
I see that you are running 0 degrees caster I thought that the more caster (to a point) the more steering????
jdeadman- Less caster helps you get into the corner, more caster helps hold the line on exit. Hence the reason for reactive caster which reduces caster on corner entry.

Make sure your chassis is level when race ready. Try both Jaco double pink and lilac fronts- if you still have a problem holding the line on exit, then reduce the rear droop and/or try a stiffer center shock spring.
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Old 03-07-2009, 08:12 AM   #30956
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Originally Posted by Larry Brown View Post
jdeadman- Less caster helps you get into the corner, more caster helps hold the line on exit. Hence the reason for reactive caster which reduces caster on corner entry.

Make sure your chassis is level when race ready. Try both Jaco double pink and lilac fronts- if you still have a problem holding the line on exit, then reduce the rear droop and/or try a stiffer center shock spring.

That is exactly the info i needed I had really no idea what the reactive caster blocks were for.


So If i great entry but poor follow thru then Should i got a a smaller degree reactive caster block?
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Old 03-07-2009, 04:34 PM   #30957
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Default arbor for truing 1/12 prism wheels

i would like to get an arbor that will fit the jaco prism wheels. i saw a few months back a few different experiences, and would like to only buy 1 item that works.

is there any definitive opinions on which arbor will or will not work well with these wheels? thanks for any advice.
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Old 03-07-2009, 06:36 PM   #30958
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Originally Posted by avs View Post
i would like to get an arbor that will fit the jaco prism wheels. i saw a few months back a few different experiences, and would like to only buy 1 item that works.

is there any definitive opinions on which arbor will or will not work well with these wheels? thanks for any advice.
I use a Hudy arbor and have no problems with it.
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Old 03-07-2009, 06:37 PM   #30959
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So If i great entry but poor follow thru then Should i got a a smaller degree reactive caster block?
jdeadman- No, i would not do that. On carpet, the 10 degree block will virtually always be the fastest. Increase static caster with the shims until entry starts to suffer a little, then increase the front tire dope or change center shock setup as mentioned previously. More caster helps corner exit and straight line stability, and you can regain corner entry with tire compound, amount of dope or shock setup, or a combination ot these. It takes some experimentation, but that's part of the fun!
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Old 03-07-2009, 06:51 PM   #30960
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jdeadman- I brought the Corally SP12x to the top for easy reference. Check the tire, front end and center shock settings for Jeff Brown's car on the last page. It should be a good place to start for you- Jeff ran a link car for years and his Corally t-bar setup is not that different except for a softer center shock spring.
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